What kind of mpg in your 3rd gen?
01-31-2011, 06:17 PM
#81
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My taco is close enough to y'alls runners..
I get about 15.7 mixed.
99 2.7 single cab, 2-300#'s armor and stuff in the tool box. 35's + 5.29's. 156K miles.
I get about 15.7 mixed.
99 2.7 single cab, 2-300#'s armor and stuff in the tool box. 35's + 5.29's. 156K miles.
02-01-2011, 11:27 AM
#83
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02-02-2011, 06:50 AM
#84
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Hey guys I'm terrible at this conversion thing but as far as I can tell, I'm getting insanely bad gas mileage. I live in Canada. Saskatchewan to be exact. ( probably the coldest and ˟˟˟˟tiest place in Canada, a week ago it was -46 degrees celcius ) lots of snow and ice and i only use 4x4 to start at red lights, stop signs, ice. Anyway $56 gets me a full tank, pure city driving I get about 330 kms until the gas light comes on. thats with a 5-10 min warm up period when I start my car every time I drive. but I'm reading on here that ppl are getting 300 MILES and more to a tank... 1998 sr5 auto. 275/75 tires.
- recent oil change, air filter looks decent...little dirt spots but nothing extreme.
- recent oil change, air filter looks decent...little dirt spots but nothing extreme.
I usually get 330-340 in the winter.
Summer time 400-450. I've only hit "300 miles" in the summer on road trips.
Remember, the colder the air is, the more gas you use, nothing you can do about it (it's science). Also, warming up your engine uses ALOT of gas... if you had a block he ater, it would use less gas.
Wait till the summer to compare to all the yank's... with their warm weather LOL....
02-02-2011, 07:13 AM
#85
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Hey dude, 300-330km per tank is completely normal in the winter. (when i say tank i mean gas light, cause there is 20L left when the gas light goes on).
I usually get 330-340 in the winter.
Summer time 400-450. I've only hit "300 miles" in the summer on road trips.
Remember, the colder the air is, the more gas you use, nothing you can do about it (it's science). Also, warming up your engine uses ALOT of gas... if you had a block he ater, it would use less gas.
Wait till the summer to compare to all the yank's... with their warm weather LOL....
I usually get 330-340 in the winter.
Summer time 400-450. I've only hit "300 miles" in the summer on road trips.
Remember, the colder the air is, the more gas you use, nothing you can do about it (it's science). Also, warming up your engine uses ALOT of gas... if you had a block he ater, it would use less gas.
Wait till the summer to compare to all the yank's... with their warm weather LOL....
Last edited by OJ Simpson 4Runner; 02-02-2011 at 07:15 AM.
02-02-2011, 01:59 PM
#86
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Thread Starter
You can go straight to toyota for the block heater... they're not too expensive. ($40 or so).
Gas tank size is 70L, when i fill up after my gas light turns on, i fill up 50L. That leaves 20L in the tank.
In the winter, you can do 50-70km safely on the light, in the summer i can go 100k on the light safely... You have to check for yourself tho (when yours turns on).. will be a 70L tank tho....
Greg
Gas tank size is 70L, when i fill up after my gas light turns on, i fill up 50L. That leaves 20L in the tank.
In the winter, you can do 50-70km safely on the light, in the summer i can go 100k on the light safely... You have to check for yourself tho (when yours turns on).. will be a 70L tank tho....
Greg
02-02-2011, 11:13 PM
#87
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I did some research and I'm not even going to attempt to install one. I can do most work myself but lots of scares about leaking and problems with the frost plug. I'm gona invest in those magnetic portable heaters that you just stick on.
02-03-2011, 06:15 AM
#88
02-03-2011, 06:20 AM
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02-03-2011, 06:51 AM
#90
That design is much less efficient than a freeze-plug design. And since it's only 200w, vs 400-600w for freeze-plug heaters, you won't get much real benefit from it.
Using a block heater to heat your engine to save money on gas is also a silly idea, as electric energy is far more expensive than energy in the form of gasoline.
Using a block heater to heat your engine to save money on gas is also a silly idea, as electric energy is far more expensive than energy in the form of gasoline.
02-03-2011, 06:52 AM
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That design is much less efficient than a freeze-plug design. And since it's only 200w, vs 400-600w for freeze-plug heaters, you won't get much real benefit from it.
Using a block heater to heat your engine to save money on gas is also a silly idea, as electric energy is far more expensive than energy in the form of gasoline.
Using a block heater to heat your engine to save money on gas is also a silly idea, as electric energy is far more expensive than energy in the form of gasoline.
02-03-2011, 07:39 AM
#92
If it's really cold, you could block the front end/radiator area so cold air doesn't get through. It will allow the engine to warm up faster, and not allow it to cool too fast. But it has to be done right, so you don't overheat obviously.
02-03-2011, 11:08 AM
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Could you MS Paint me a description? I also heard about this but I don't want to mess with the overheat issue.
02-03-2011, 05:41 PM
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02-03-2011, 06:31 PM
#95
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...-warm-817.html
I have yet to hear much of an opinion on the subject. I think they would be useful
02-05-2011, 02:56 AM
#96
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I guess this is where some of our mileage is going.
pure-gas.org has some stations that sell non-ethonol.
I was watching this on WSB Channel 2 this evening and I thought I would share this with you all especially since I have deal with this personally.
Currently the gasoline that we buy is mixed with 10% Ethanol and when I had to replace a fuel pump TWICE I wondered did the gas have anything to do with it. If you own one the newer Flex Fuel cars then you're ok because they designed those cars to burn gas that's 85%
You can check it out more if you copy and paste this link http://www.wsbtv.com/news/26718102/detail.html
and also you can check out this checklist and I pray to God that you're car is not doing any of these:
E10 Parts Damage/Problems:Examples of reported damage, determined to be caused by E10 fuel.
Ethanol Gasoline - General Problems/Issues:
1. Phase separation (P/S) of gasoline. 2. Water contamination (W/C) of gasoline. 3. Attract, absorb and hold moisture in fuel tank. 4. Increased occurrence of lean, water-diluted fuel.5. Vapor lock or fuel starvation. 6. Drop in octane (after water absorption, P/S and W/C occurs).7. Decreased fuel efficiency and mpg.8. Decreased life cycle of parts and engine.9. Decreased shelf life of gasoline.
Parts Damage:1. Wear and damage of internal engine parts. 2. Damage to metal, rubber, and plastic parts of fuel system. 3. Corrosion of metal parts in fuel system and engine. 4. Deterioration of elastomers and plastic parts. 5. Deterioration of non-metallic materials. 6. Fuel permeation through flexible fuel lines. 7. Drying, softening, stretching and/or cracking of rubber hoses, seals and other rubber components. 8. Oxygen sensor damage.9. Damage or premature disintegration of fuel pump.10. Carburetor damage, including clogging.11. Dirty and clogged fuel filters. 12. Clogging and plugging of fuel injectors.13. Destruction of certain fiberglass fuel tanks.14. Removal or fading of paint and varnish (both internal and external parts of engine).15. Piston/bore failure through knock/pre-ignition.16. Piston ring sticking.17. Unsuitable ignition timing resulting in ignition failure.18. Gumming-up of fuel injectors, carburetors, etc. due to release of accumulated deposits in engine from ethanol alcohol's solvent properties.
E10 Drivability Issues:
1. Engine performance problems. (Lack of power/energy).2. Hard starting and operating difficulty. 3. Hesitation and lack of acceleration. 4. Stalling, especially at low speeds.
pure-gas.org has some stations that sell non-ethonol.
I was watching this on WSB Channel 2 this evening and I thought I would share this with you all especially since I have deal with this personally.
Currently the gasoline that we buy is mixed with 10% Ethanol and when I had to replace a fuel pump TWICE I wondered did the gas have anything to do with it. If you own one the newer Flex Fuel cars then you're ok because they designed those cars to burn gas that's 85%
You can check it out more if you copy and paste this link http://www.wsbtv.com/news/26718102/detail.html
and also you can check out this checklist and I pray to God that you're car is not doing any of these:
E10 Parts Damage/Problems:Examples of reported damage, determined to be caused by E10 fuel.
Ethanol Gasoline - General Problems/Issues:
1. Phase separation (P/S) of gasoline. 2. Water contamination (W/C) of gasoline. 3. Attract, absorb and hold moisture in fuel tank. 4. Increased occurrence of lean, water-diluted fuel.5. Vapor lock or fuel starvation. 6. Drop in octane (after water absorption, P/S and W/C occurs).7. Decreased fuel efficiency and mpg.8. Decreased life cycle of parts and engine.9. Decreased shelf life of gasoline.
Parts Damage:1. Wear and damage of internal engine parts. 2. Damage to metal, rubber, and plastic parts of fuel system. 3. Corrosion of metal parts in fuel system and engine. 4. Deterioration of elastomers and plastic parts. 5. Deterioration of non-metallic materials. 6. Fuel permeation through flexible fuel lines. 7. Drying, softening, stretching and/or cracking of rubber hoses, seals and other rubber components. 8. Oxygen sensor damage.9. Damage or premature disintegration of fuel pump.10. Carburetor damage, including clogging.11. Dirty and clogged fuel filters. 12. Clogging and plugging of fuel injectors.13. Destruction of certain fiberglass fuel tanks.14. Removal or fading of paint and varnish (both internal and external parts of engine).15. Piston/bore failure through knock/pre-ignition.16. Piston ring sticking.17. Unsuitable ignition timing resulting in ignition failure.18. Gumming-up of fuel injectors, carburetors, etc. due to release of accumulated deposits in engine from ethanol alcohol's solvent properties.
E10 Drivability Issues:
1. Engine performance problems. (Lack of power/energy).2. Hard starting and operating difficulty. 3. Hesitation and lack of acceleration. 4. Stalling, especially at low speeds.
02-05-2011, 07:49 AM
#97
You would not be able to boil up a cup of water that's sitting outside with 200watts, let alone heat up a 1500 pound block of steel and aluminum that is the engine/transmission.
03-31-2011, 12:55 PM
#99
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Summer Gas finally!
It appears I bought my first tank of summer gas. 130 miles and still at half tank on the "gauge". All winter it had been 100 miles at half tank.
It appears I bought my first tank of summer gas. 130 miles and still at half tank on the "gauge". All winter it had been 100 miles at half tank.
Last edited by badattitude; 03-31-2011 at 06:35 PM.
