Robb235

You could try temporarily replacing your hose with some clear hose from Home Depot, and have someone raise the throttle while you look to see if oil is backing up. Switch back to the regular hose when you're finished because I don't think the clear stuff will hold up to the heat of the oil for very long.

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gioguitardude

It doesn't really matter. The fact that he has oil coming out of both ends screams that a restrictor is needed. I had a 3/16" or bigger restricttor on my old setup that leaked and now with a 1/8" or smaller restrictor my charge pipes are clean and dry.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Nothing but clean oil in the oil filter. Haven't removed the pan. I'm waiting until I find a motor to finish pulling the block. I'm going to look at an '02 in the Pick-n-Pull tomorrow morning. I'm guessing I'll need to swap some of my existing sensors if I intend on using my existing '98 ECU.

I'll definitely be running a restrictor in the future. I do believe the thicker oil just put it over the edge as far as pushing past the seals. With the 5w-30 I was using before I was getting a little in the charge pipe and a tiny bit out of a vband on the turbine housing.

gioguitardude

Whatever you do don't get rid of that old engine. I made that mistake twice and I could have had a 1000 HP built up beast by now. First time the old mans x girlfriend had one of her amature mechanic friends change the oil and forgot to full tighten the drain bolt. Knock knock knock. The engine we swapped that for had a coolant hose that wasn't on all the way so it came off one day in winter so I popped it back on and filled the radiator with water just to get to work. Forgot about it that night and it froze and put a tiny crack in the head. Live and learn

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Success. Found a really clean motor from an '02 Sport 2wd with 150k miles on it. The fluids were in great condition and the timing belt, water pump, and idler had been replaced recently. This motor has the drive by wire throttle body, so I'll just swap that, and whatever other sensors are necessary to retain my '98 ECU. Took me 4.5 hours start to finish to get it pulled by myself. Within the next couple weeks I'll be swapping over all the 3.4 swap stuff, and sending off the converter to be restalled. Hopefully have it all buttoned up before the race track closes for the season which is early November.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Nice find! How long have you been rocking the tube doors in your avatar?

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

$159 for complete motor with wiring and all sensors, sans A/C pump, alt, PS pump and fan/clutch. Ridiculous. I've had the tube doors all summer, including running them down the track a few times :-) Last year I was doorless, but the tubes are a better look. I made them myself from 3/4" EMT conduit and gate latches. I have about $12 in both of them.

Jomoka

Holy cow that's cheap.

gioguitardude

That's some badass news man. Relocate your MAF to a place with more straight pipe in front of it and get a restrictor on that oil feed. You'll be golden

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

That will be a major priority after getting it all back together. I might throw in a tiny intercooler just so I can get my charge pipe to the other side of the engine bay so I have a straight shot at the throttle body. Might skip the intercooler and just run tubing.

Jomoka

An intercooler is a good thing. How much boost are you running again?

High intake temps lead to ping ping boom events.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

14psi. It says in my signature, unless you're on mobile and can't see it. I'm not aware I ever had an preignition issues. The pistons and valveas certainly don't appear affected. I never heard it (I realize you can't hear it all) I had ignition misfire, either due to too much oil in the charge, weak coil, or some other unknown reason. I need a way to datalog...

gioguitardude

Intercool it man. Don't even think about it, just do it. Your truck will thank you and your performance will increase greatly due to proper MAF readings. Mine did.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Finally found the cause of noise. Bent rod. This was due to a lot of ignition misifiring and a ton of meth pooling in cylinder. Again this was my fault. I kept putting my foot in it saying "it'll clear up".

The "new" motor is almost done getting all the required 2nd gen stuff swapped over to it. I sent my converter to Great Converters of TX and am expecting it back early next week. My instruction were "get as much stall out of it as possible". The race track is open and I've got the itch


EDIT: 4/7/2015 Come to find out all my "misfiring" issues were due to a failing crank sensor! After I put new motor in I had the same issue! The crank sensor was robbed out of my junkyard motor so I had to reuse my old one. Many weeks of beating my head trying to figure out what was wrong. Crank ohmed out within spec (1800) but would cause misfiring above 3500 RPM while never throwing a code. Didn't figure it out until I started part swapping.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Glad for the update. Any plans for a standalone?

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Piggyback more likely but I won't rule out standalone. I'd also really like a way to cut meth if I get ignition misfires. Not sure what solution would do that for me.

Texas_Ace

This is why a proper tuning solution is a must when trying to get much more then 350whp.

Seeing as you are a swap anyways, I would look into a standalone, piggyback is a bandaid at best. On a budget a megasquirt will work but a haltech, vipec or even AEM would be better.

The easiest way to get the meth to stop spraying if it misfires is to let off the gas.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

What's a reasonably good diy standalone? Is a piggyback still a decent option?

Texas_Ace

Only reason a piggyback is acceptable is if you have OBDII and need it to pass emissions. A piggyback makes this easier. Although with a harness adapter you can always just swap ECU's for testing.

Standalone is the best option by far if you can do your own tuning.

Far as options, on the cheap side Megasquirt works but you get what you pay for.

On the bit better note there is one of the many universal boxes from the likes of AEM, haltec, Vipec, proefi ect. These work fine but take some work to setup but are missing features fromt he full boxes.

Then you have the full on standalones from the above makers. They can do anything and everything you can dream of, and more. They will set you back quite a bit though.

Best bang for the buck would be one of the universal boxes for a V6.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

The younger guy I just spoke with at Great Converters said he's going to change the bearings, stator, and pin angles and get me 3k-3,200 FLASH stall out of this converter! I should probably be able to brake stall it into full boost or until the brakes won't hold. I'm freakin stoked to get it back. I feel real bad for my back tires all of a sudden

Also going to go ahead and order a spare ujoint or two...