SuaveGato

Hello,
I am going to do both, T-belt & valve check and or adj. Just wondering if there is any reason I should do one before the other? Also, while in there, I'm doing the water pump, just in case and replacing the bad P/S pump. I've also heard it's a good idea to replace the A/C pulley bearing and the T-belt idler tensioner pulley. ANYTHING ELSE I SHOULD DO WHILE I'M IN IT THAT DEEP?

thanks,

P.S. it's a 96 tacoma 3.4 Ltr.

vegaskurt

I replaced both Timing belt pulleys, the idler and the other one... Also a good idea to do the thermostat while your in there. And of course the AC/PS/ALT belts.

w99t4rweos

You're on the right track! Might suggest looking at the crank and cam seal ,to make sure they're dry and change the coolant w/ Toyota stuff.

SuaveGato

Thanks, Good advice. Can anyone think of any reason why I should do one before the other though? I.E. T-belt first then Valve adj. or vise versa? And just for clarification, why "Toyota coolant". Are you saying Toyota brand or Toyota "type" and why? Is there a problem with off brand compatibles or something?
thanks,

MTL_4runner

I asked about valve adjustment many moons ago and got a response from Gadget (who was the original pioneer/guru on much of this 3.4L/3rd gen info, maint, S/C'ing etc..... here's his site: http://www.gadgetonline.com/4run.htm ) that it really was not necessary unless you had significant valvetrain noise or some other issue which required attention (grinding, poor performance, etc). This is from a guy who does EVERYTHING via the FSM. That being said many dealers won't even ask you about ever doing a valve adjustment for a similar reason, the valvetrain wears very, very slowly and rarely needs actual adjustment. You are certainly welcome to do it, but in all honesty I would bet it will be a considerable waste of your time. The shims are also quite expensive and often not stocked by the dealer in all sizes so your engine may be down for some time waiting for the proper size to come in.

That being said I would advise to do the timing belt first. Same thing applies here to the water pump, cam & crank seals, idlers, tensioner, etc. Most people run problem free without replacing them for at least 150-175k. For waterpump longevity it is critical to keep the coolant in good condition so I would recommend a flush and refill with "toyota red" coolant (read below thread for why). Same thing with oil changes to keep the cam and crank seals in good condition. The idlers and tensioner are quite unpredictable so just because you replace them now doesn't guarantee long life and the originals may outlast replaced parts, it really is impossible to know. If it makes you sleep better at night, then replace all of the above, totally up to you.

There are quite a few thread on coolant but if you want technical, here's the thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/just-finished-timing-belt-coolant-question-77747/#post810177

SuaveGato

Hello Jamie and thanks for the input.
The more I think about it and the more I read and re read your post, the more I am considering if I should do it [valve check & adjust] or not? When I got it, a few weeks back, it had a bad misfire in #3, since getting that fixed (badly arc’d plug, see pix: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131/ever-see-plug-arc-like-86214/), it sounds really nice and smooth now… there is no valve train noise that I can hear at all… so you might be right, might be a colossal waste of my time? I do like to tinker however and just might tear into just to check, make sure and give me piece of mind but your thoughts are well considered? Since I am already going to be replacing the P/S pump, T-belt and water pump, I just figure while I’m there and already dirty… Sounds like it may well turn out to be unnecessary but I’d like to know for sure? Hopefully it will just be a “check” and I will find everything in spec. If not, it’s not my DD, so down time is no problem waiting for shims to come in. You definitely got me thinking now though… dern it! 

As for the rest of the stuff listed, Water pump, crank & cam seals, idlers, tensioners, A/C bearing etc. I hear ya. I’ve replaced an old part before “while I was there for PM” only to have the new one go out on me a month later!!! But as you said, “Most people run problem free without replacing them for at least 150-175k” and she has 150K on her? I don’t think that I will do the seals unless they are leaking, the P/S pump is out now, so that will get replaced, the water pump is just for PM, what would you think about that? It only has 90K on it since the lat replacement. As for the rest, I guess I will buy them, have them on hand and see how they look when I get in there? If all is tight and well, may not do them? But at least I’ll have them handy if need be?

While were at it, I am a pretty experienced and skilled “shade tree” but wrenching on the Toyota is new to me, hence all of the Toy specific questions… that being said, is there any particulars that you or anyone would recommend in the T-belt? I.E. brand, aftermarket upgrade etc.? Like, is there any particular brand that I should steer clear of or one that is better than the other or is OEM the only way to go etc.?
Thanks again for all of your help & info.

MTL_4runner

OK....where to start.

Easiest to just answer everything above in red.

SuaveGato

Thanks again Jamie!