and having a hard time deciding if I want to change both idler pulleys or not (upper and lower...or tensioner pulley)
they both seem like new, with no gritty feel or noise when spinning.
However, I have 230K on this truck, with the last timing belt/water pump done at 170K by the dealer.
I have no idea if they did the idler pulleys or not.

I kinda dont want to have to go back into this part of the motor for another 100K or so, and am thinking spending the extra 200 dollars might be smart?

thoughts?

oh, and my new factory water pump doesnt require any sealant right? Just use the factory supplied rubber gasket?

thx

 

No sealant for the H20 pump.

If both idlers feel fine, I'd leave them alone. But if you have the $$$ lying around, by all means replace them. I'd be more inclined to change the tensioner out along with the drive belts and thermostat/gasket.

Take some pics and post. Good luck.

 

200 ? ehh no already got it tore apart is the extra 100 in parts worth being stuck in the middle of no where at 3am

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-Timin...item3f10d395d0

 

I took my factory ones out at 120K. They looked perfect, but I hope not to go back in until 240k, so I swapped everything. '99 timing belt interval is 90k but the components are the same as a '97. But, since you don't know how long they've been in there, I would do them.

But why $200? You can get OES Koyo tension pulley and OES NSK upper idler from partsgeek.com for less than $100. They are identical to factory from the same manufacturer. The ones I put in had the same markings as the originals I took out.

Yes, if you have the updated metal/rubber gasket and a WP with no channel in the flange, just bolt her up. Make sure engine-side surface is nice and clean.

 

Wow, Elton, that's an amazing price on that e-bay kit for all the right components. Have you actually purchased from that seller???

 

i have not but feed back looks good and so does the parts

 

really appreciate all the great info...
damn, i wish i'd ordered from that ebay seller.

I am replacing everything else anyways already...the tensioner, thermostat, etc...
so maybe the pulleys should just get replaced too.

thx guys

edit...
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...elt_idler.html
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...er_pulley.html
this is what I found on partsgeek....one is a beck arnely, the other a clowers....I have my doubts that these are factory quality?

Am I wrong?
thx

 

Nope, here you go. Beck Arnley is not bad stuff, and have used them in the past, but the NSK/Koyo combo is OEM. GMB is not bad as well.

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...r_bearing.html

 

thx

so i decided to take everything back to the dealer...about 300 in parts
and i ordered the ebay kit that elton posted for 100
now i just need to find a cheap oem water pump and i'm good!

thx for all the help and for saving me some money!

edit....hmmm, this looks good
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...ater_pump.html

edit edit....which water pump of those two? one with the rubber o ring gasket right?

 

Uhh...they both have gaskets. You want the AISIN for the V6, not the 2,7l 4cyl. You do want to be sure you have the oilcooler that has a hose connecting to the water pump on that tube off the thermostat housing. You can see it on the driver's side of the engine, just follow the radiator hose back. Some models don't have it, and need a pump without the tube on there.

 

Partsgeek has the NSK and Koyo idlers.Scroll to the bottom here:

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...r_bearing.html

As you can see, they are listed as OEM. They are. I don't have experience with Beck-Arnley as I only use OEM suppliers from after-market sources. Same part as dealer, less money. As far as I can tell, Elton's kit is all OEM suppliers. I would have bought it.

 

yep, facepalm..in my rush I didnt see that one is for the 4cyl and one for the v6...

 

I would do the tensioner also if (or when I should say) I had to do mine over; mine was just barely out of spec and got cheap at the wrong time and left the original in; I think it's $75 from toyota. so far no issue but only 162k on the clock. my .02

thanks from me too Durk for the links to those parts, good to know for my next one...

 

Matt,

The kit includes a water pump I believe. Everything is in it you need except:

And I'll bet aa1911 will agree with me on this one:

A NEW CRANK BOLT. They run about $10~$15 at the dealership.

 

I next day aired from partsgeek a aisin water pump because the "product includes" checklist for the kit did NOT list a water pump.
Nor is a water pump shown in the picture of the kit?

If there IS a water pump, I'm gonna be a little peeved, lol...cause that next day air cost me 26 bucks

and I was wondering about a crank bolt...wasnt sure if it was something I needed to replace or not?
Why is it a part I should be concerned with?
Just asking out of curiosity...
thx

 

Per the FSM, the crank bolt is a non-reusable part (page EM-12):
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/...imbel/comp.pdf
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2000/Repa...nical/comp.pdf

Probably has something to do with that 217 ft-lbs of torque.

 

aa1911 I think had his crank bolt come out because it was not torqued down to 217ft/lbs.

As Rworegon said, per the FSM, it is a non reusable part.

#90105-16031 is the part you need.

It looks as if that kit included the H20 pump, but a call or email to the seller would be what is needed to confirm such.

 

well i receive the kit on wed, so I'll know then...
okay, off to the dealer to buy a crank bolt, lol

 

You do have a tool made up to hold the crank so you can re-torque the bolt properly? If not, there are several easy to make designs around here.

 

the one i linked didn't have a water pump cause i thought u already had one