yup... the metal warning thingy is starting to hit my disc brake... meaning i definatly need new brakes soon!

good thing it did it today and not earlier... since i got my flowmaster on today . that probably would have delayed my installation of the flowmaster...

actually.. i first heard the squeeking on the way to get my exhaust.. but i said screw that im getting it!!

anyway... ya... probably gonna pick up some brake pads tomorrow and do it myself.. or i might just have some place do it...

 

If you are only going to replace the pads, do it yourself!

It will only cost you about $45.

Performance Friction pads are $39.99 at AutoZone, but make sure you ask for the pads for a 1995 Pickup. TRD uses PF pads for their Carbon Metallic pads, and they have an exclusive agreement on the 4Runner. You will need some caliper grease, and one can of DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid.

AutoZone site

1. Loosen lug nuts
2. Jack up vehicle, and support with jackstands
3. Take the cover off the brake fluid reservoir
4. Use a turkey baster to remove 2/3 of the fluid from the reservoir
5. Remove the anti-rattle spring
6. Use a clamp or lage pliers to press the old pads against the caliper pistons
(be careful to apply even pressure to both sides of the pads)
7. Remove the pin-retaining wire, the 2 pins, and the old pads
8. Apply caliper grease lightly to the back of the new pads, and the anti-rattle plates
9. Put the new pads back into the calipers
10. Clean the anti-rattle spring, pins, and retaining wire, and apply a small amount of grease
11. Replace the pins, spring, and finally the wire
12. Turn the disc to make sure that all is lined up properly
13. Refill the brake reservoir
14. Replace both wheels, and lug nuts (65-85 ft-lbs.)

Start the engine, and depress the brake pedal. When you turn off the motor it should hold, and not go to the floor. If it goes to the floor, you probably got air into the hoses and will need to bleed.

*If you are not sure, you can always do one wheel at a time and use the other as a guide to put it all back together properly.

I did it all last weekend, including replacing the rotors, and the driver side cv halfshaft. My first time for all, and it only took me about 5 hrs.

It should take you about 1-2 hours. It is really easy to just change the pads, hope this helps.

 

ive done it on my brothers nissan stanza that he used to have. this was about 4 or 5 years ago...

My rotors are warped i think.... but i'll just ride it out... I guess?

do i really need to get the expensive break pads? or should i just grab the cheapest ones

why do i need to remove brake fluid before? ive never done that before

 

The reason I recommend the PF pads is that they carry a lifetime warranty. They may be a little expensive at first, but you won't have to pay for pads ever again.

If you have to do the rotors, you will need a 54mm (2 1/8 in) socket for the spindle nut. You can get one from sleeoffroad, but if you need it this weekend, go to Sears. You can always return it. It is not that difficult, just do steps 1-7 from above, then remove the two 17mm bolts that hold the caliper on and tie it to the a-arm. Then remove the live hub, and the hub/rotor assembly. You just remove the 6 bolts that hold on the rotor, and swap on the new one. I would recommend repacking the wheel bearings, it is fairly easy, but very messy. Use rubber gloves, and it is probably worth going with synthetic gear lube. I would recommend Brembo rotors since they are only $50 each, but you could also just go the AutoZone route, and probably get a Lifetime Warranty on them as well.

In all, I spent about $200, and the best quote I could get was about $500. It wasn't hard, and it was my first time doing anything more complicated than an oil change. You could also get a Haynes manual for about $15. It is a good reference for a brake job.

The only reason I said to remove the fluid cap and some fluid was because I have heard of people breaking the seal on the caliper piston. If you break this seal, you will have twice as much work ahead. You will DEFINITELY have air in the line, need to bleed, and probably replace the caliper piston seals when you REBUILD it. I know it can and has been done successfully without removing fluid, but I would say better safe than sorry. Just make sure you don't take out too much fluid or then you will have to bleed as well. Also, try not to leave the fluid cap open too long because water can contaminate the fluid.

If you are stuck, I would be glad to provide some help/answers. Good Luck!

 

Two more things:

The Brembo rotors can be hard to find, just look for import auto parts dealers in your area and give them a call. If they don't have them, they probably will know where to get them.

Yes, you can go without replacing the rotors. I went ~10,000 miles on warped rotors (mine were not that bad, and I learned how to minimize the shaking/pulsing) and new pads. If I had known how easy it was I would have done it sooner.

Just my opinion.

 

I got Brembo rotors from AutoZone for about $28 each a year ago.

 

What year is your vehicle?

What AutoZone? None of the AutoZones in Atlanta carry Brembo rotors for any application. Maybe it is just Atlanta.

 

95
same as yours but 2wd

 

Sorry, I should have clarified. I was asking jx94148 what kind of vehicle he owned. I would be pretty surprised to hear that AutoZone sold Brembo rotors, and that price is unbelievably low. Basically, if he can tell me where to get 2 Brembo rotors for $56 for a 95 Toyota 4WD, I will call them and buy a spare set just for the hell of it.

 

One other reason (outside of what channer said) is that as you squeeze the calipers open you're going to push fluid back up into the reservoir.

If you've been keeping an eye on your brake fluid, then as the pads have been wearing down, the fluid level has been dropping. Which means that you've been adding fluid (right? ) So, when you compress the calipers, and they push fluid back up into the reservoir, then you won't have the room to hold all the additional fluid that you've put in - which means that you're now spilling fluid down through the engine well onto the pavement.

 

Just my 2 cents worth. Some one else on this board said that its better to let the excess fluid spit out the bleed valves so as to not force any trash or crappy fluid back into the system. Also, I once read that the lifetime warrantee pads from the parts stores are made with a harder formulation so they dont wear out as quick. Upside for the store is that they only have to let go of 1 set of pads within say 3 or 4 years instead of 2 sets that would be worn through if the softer formula was used. Downside for us is that it wears rotors faster then they warp. Any thoughts on this? I have been buying the stock pads from toyota because I was worried about this. After ruining 2 sets of rotors on my 90 using the lifetime pads,(warpage within 6 months to a year) I went with toyota rotors and pads and have not had a problem since in 5 years and 2 sets of pads.

 

yup!!!!!!! thats why i wont buy lifetime warranty brake pads. my brother owned an older MR2 (85-89) and bought some lifetime warranty pads. it warped the rotors so bad so quickly... you could see a wave on the rotors from 30 feet away. the maker of the pads ended up replacing the rotors for free.

 

That is definitely a better way to go, I just went for the clean simple way, since I was waiting for my power bleeder to arrive. I didn't want to bleed twice within 2 weeks.

I would expect that from the "el cheapo" $19.99 pads. i.e. you get what you paid for. I would be surprised however, to find that the Performance Friction pads (the same exact pads TRD uses) also are made this way.

http://www.brakewarehouse.com/perfrict1.htm

In fact, if you follow the link above, you will find that PF claims the exact opposite. "Performance Friction ensures extended rotor life because the carbon technology in Carbon Metallic® brake pads provides superior disc conditioning."

It is my opinion that high performance pads should be used with high performance rotors. I have always heard good things about Brembo, and PF. I hope I am right, otherwise I will definitely be asking AutoZone to replace my rotors in 6 months.

 

I have wanted to get the performance friction lifetime from autozone because I thought they would be fine. Just too scared to though. I guess im twice shy now after the raybestos fiasco. Are the toyota standard pads also performance friction? They are black with copper specs in them. See the pics on my webshots page in the 90 4 runner section for a pic of the pads and a little dust sheild mod that I did.

 

I do not know who makes the Toyota OEM pads, but they do look very similar to the PF pads that I used. My pads are also black with shiny copper colored flecks.

One thing I noticed is that many of the aftermarket pads have a line cut down the middle of the pad, and the OEM ones you have don't. My PF pads didn't have the line either.

It is very possible that they are the same, but equally possible that they are not.

 

i beleive the line on your pads is for less noise and a place for dust to go ,

erik b of oregon