i had every confidence to do this lift but at the end it was 5 hrs of sweat with no results.

the trouble was the spring compressors always coming in contact with something in the strut mount area. (upper a-arms, part where u bolt to the car, and the brake line). 5 hrs of trying everything my friend and i can think of and we are experienced in this area as we both used to work on hummers for a living in the army. dammit what am i doing wrong?

im so depressed right now.
:cry:

 

I had to cut the length of the spring compressor so it would fit. Maybe you should try that? If you have axcess to a wall mount spring compressor, use taht to initially compress the springs, then use the spring compressors to hold them in compression and race to the truck and get them in.

ALso, you might want to consider dropping the lower ball joint.

 

Localmotion seems to have you coverd but if you could, can you take some pics of whats going on and post them?

 

if only the spring compressors are mine i borrowed them from autozone. but, i dont want to go through what i did again, i might just take the easy way out and pay for it to be done(so degrading). going to vegas in about a week and i want to show of my ride.

 

yea i cant take any pics since im done with it already but yea the problem was the spring compressors not letting me have full access to the car it kept on hitting everything any way i put it, i reppositioned it like 5 time to try and fit but came out with negative results.

 

I thought with spring compressors, you compress the spring, install the top plates, and you have the complete front assembly done. Then you install it in your truck...

Like this...


After putting top plate on, you have...

 

it was still too long for it to naturally fit where the stocl one was located i had to use the bottle jack from the car to lower the upper a-arm which in turn also lowers the lower a-arm. but still i couldnt get the strut eye to bolt on, i had like 1 inch until it could match up the mount to the eye. that 1 inch was a lot. and after a certain point tryin to lower the a-arms so that ur strut eye lines up ,ur going to go too far and puncture the top of ur wheel well from the bottle jack being extended to long.

 

when all else fails, follow the directions... bottom half of the page...

http://4rnr.net/suspension

 

I guess it has been covered above but I'll ask again.. why would you need spring compressors up in the wheel well? The strut assembly comes out as a whole unit, and can be worked on (compressed) away from the vehicle. I guess you probably know that now, and I'd be careful with those cheapo spring compressors and these heavy duty springs, they can get away from you quite easily, take them to a Pep Boys or other shop with a wall mount compressor and pay them $20 to assemble the spring/shock unit.

 

Well, you aren't supposed to be using the spring compressors while trying to install the assembly onto the truck.

You're supposed to have the assembled unit (coil, shock, top-plate(s)) together and then installed. Use of the bottle jack should be good. Either you've jacked it too far, or too little. Think of all the Tacoma, 4runner and Tundra people who have lifted their rigs. They all did it, so you can too.

Were you just using the Tundra coils? If so, it shouldnt be extremely long, its more in the thickness of the coil. Keep jacking the bottle jack until it reaches. I would attach the top three bolts, and then keep jacking down, until you can see the eyes line up.

 

I was quoted $85 for a spring compression last month. It turned me off the project real fast.

 

When you use the bottle jack up top and undo the ball joint at the bottom, there's no reason why it won't line up. Then just use a floor jack to get it all back into place.

Undo these bolts (there are 4 per side) and the control arm will be easy to line up:




$85 for spring compression with the struts out of the truck is just highway robbery ($10-20 each max!)

 

Also, check the torque on all connections following assembly, I had noticed the nut on the front right strut was GONE when I went to change a fog light about a month after the suspension installation. Luckily the bolt was still there and had not moved. I torqued all the connection points based on the Haynes Manual specs, never trust the work of a shop, how often do you actually see them pull out a torque wrench?

 

Per the FSM, torque the lower shock nut ONLY when the rig is back on the ground. Its easy enough to do with a short extension on the socket. Otherwise you risk the bushing getting off center and wearing prematurely.

David

 

Sounds like even though you said the job was done...you have all the advice any of us will need for NEXT time....

 

If you are using the OME shocks then you are going to have a bit more challenge getting them installed since they are longer than the tokico ones.

Remove the bottom four bolts connecting the lower ball joint.
That should give you enough room.

 

oh man, thanks guys! i really didnt want to go to some 4x4 shop and pay up the ass to get it done. i will try that lower ball joint discon. next weekend ill have done. thanks again...

anymore advise?

 

oh wait did u guys still have the spring compressors on while installing, cuz thats what i see on bamacham's site.

 

once the struts are assembled, it shouldn't take more than 30-min per side for a first timer. it's really easy once you get that thing together.

oh, and i HATE spring compressors. only use one when you absolutely have to!

those pics were taken by someone else. like you, he couldn't get them to fit and was disgruntled.

he took the compressors off, then dropped the lower ball joint and they slid right in. then just use a floor jack to return the lower ball joint to it's spot on the lower A arm and you'll be set.

 

NO.. the top plate holds the spring in place, then the strut is a complete assembly so no compression tool is required when installing on the truck.