I know there are a lot of threads on the TRD S/C and URDs 7th injector, but I didn’t see anything that mentioned this. 4runner is fairly new to me, and has had the normal high gear low rpm ping, previous owner and I took it to a shop that “Split Second” maker of the URD FTC packaged with kit. The shop had some trouble with it and couldn’t seem to get it right. I took it home and found the hose going to the ftc that tells the computer boost levels was folded over.

Anyone have a problem with the hose that comes out of the FTC box on URDs 7th injector? The line that exits the box is really thin and pliable, the lines off the “T” going to boost gauge and boost port are way more sturdy. The previous owner of my 4runner just placed the box in the glove box, not affixed or held in place by anything. I was getting some strange A/F readings on the way back from the shop that said they couldn’t tune it because the FTC was only showing 1 lb of boost, even though the S/C was spooling to the right pressure. Went home and found this.

See Pic Note: the unit was turned around so the crimped line was behind it, but I can’t believe the tuning shop would not have seen this.


Could this have been why the shop said the FTC was only seeing 1lb of boost, because the line was crimped like this and only letting 1 lb through?


After I solve the mounting issue, wondering how I can safeguard against pinching that line. Besides using a section of plastic split loom shield to give it some strength any ideas or other option is to cut 4” (total length is about 6”) of it out and replace with thicker or more rigid line.

My Concern is if something pinches the line prior to boost coming on FTC won’t see the boost so it won’t activate the injector, if something pinches the line while in boost, FTC will still see boost when out of it and will run the fuel too rich.

Has anyone else running this set up, encountered the thin hose issue?

Looked into mounting it behind the glove box but, it’s pretty tight. Might just screw it into place or use 3M snap-locks in the glove box.

Thanks Josh

 

I am about to start to do my S/C setup once I get my engine back from the builder, so I am no expert, but throwing your URD box in the glove box is janky. And I would say yes, that line being pinched due to a improper routing, could be one of your problems.

Seems like it would be easy to get that pinch out of the line and get in your truck and drive it while watching your AFR. That seems like the sensable thing to do it.

 

Your t-fitting is too close. And you have too much hose on the glove box. Try moving the tee outside/behind the glove box

 

Yep, thats your problem, if that shop was worth their salt they should have found that.

That install is really ghetto, i would really think about redoing it so you don't have this problem again.

 

definetely reroute it and have only one line running into the glovebox for the urd controller.

 

Any ideas on where to mount the ftc box to move it out of the glove box? The space behind it is too shallow and the under/behind the center console is taken up with radio/cb antenna splitter and other electronics. Having the FTC in the glove box I just think is inviting problems since you can open it and change the angles of wires etc.
thanks

 

I mounted mine under the passenger seat. Worked fine for me, kept it out of the way but it was still accessible for tuning.

 

I am an idiot and even I know this... I would perhaps burn the shop down? Just kidding, of course. Kinda.

 

Mines I mounted behind the passenger side kick panel.
Routes fine and most of the lines are staight shouts into the engine bay. The USB wire is pulled into the glove box for ease of access.
I never mounted my fun gauge, since I have been lazy and couldn't decide on if I wanted a lotek 2 gauge pliar.