dbullock15

Just replaced the transmission fluid (5-speed) in my 2003 Tacoma with Amsoil....I definately notice a difference in shifting, I am quite surprised.

Does anyone know the torque spec for the drain and fill plugs. I snugged them up but don't wanna go too tight.

Thanks

rimpainter.com

I torque mine to somewhere between 16 and 20.

keisur

I torque mine until it smokes and then I give it another 1/8th of a turn.

MTL_4runner

you're always good for a..... or 2

keisur

but really, I did this to my rear filler plug, like an idjit. so I had to drill and tap a 1/2-13 thread in the middle of the plug and temporarily put in a nylon bolt. 3 weeks ago when I pull my 3rd to replace it with the new one with 4.88's and an ARB locker, I got it out with a big screw extractor on my air impact wrench. trust me, the worst feeling is knowing that the only fix is to pull the third and tap it a few times from the inside so the screw extractor will work, fill it through the axle tube which means pulling an axle, or tapping a hole like I did. But you're right, I was just trying to get a laugh above.

On topic: My Haynes (Haynis - because I hate it) Manual says 23 ft-lbs on the filler and drain plugs.

dbullock15

Thanks guys. They are torqued with my calibrated arm right now with no leaks but I suppose I'll put a torque wrench on there just to make sure.

MTL_4runner

I use the 2 finger torque method. Put your thumb on the head of the ratchet and only use 2 fingers to apply torque. You can crank all you want becuase unless you are schwartzenegger you won't have enuf strength to over-torque anything and strip it out.

A torque wrench obviously works best if you have one.
....most of the time I am just lazy and my method works for me.

JSharp

Hmmm. I always heard you should tighten things until they start to get loose again, then back off 1/4 turn...

keisur

yea. I heard that once too. you can also torque it until you see the bolt head start to expand where it is contacting the diff so it looks like a tapered hex.