Is there anything I should be worried about when going to change my timing belt and water pump on my 1997 4Runner? I have a 1998 service manual, and was wondering if it's the same? Are there any special tricks or tools that I'll need to get it done?

Chris

 

I hope your very technically inclined. I was chicken after pulling the timing cover to do my belt & pump on the 1991. I can only imagine how more technical they are now. Good luck!

 

Ravencr

I am in the middle of doing the timing belt and waterpump change right now. The only thing that is stopping right now from finishing this is the Toyota factory service tools that are required to remove the crankshaft pulley. Check my recent post for part numbers and prices for locating these tools. As of right now, I cannot find anywhere that has these tools in stock.


Mark

 

Hey Chris,

I just did mine.

Best advice I can give you is to mark all the cams and the crank against the block BEFORE you pull off the old belt. If you are off even a tooth, the truck will run like crap....sux to get it all back together and find that out. I used to be a tech and I can't tell you how many home jobs I fixed cause people didn't mark anything first. When the new belt goes on make sure all the marks line up PERFECTLY! If not reinstall the belt while it is all apart.

I also suggest getting a strap wrench (must be the very heavy duty version (metal handle usually painted red) to hold the crank pully...can be rented for cheap) and a 3-4 ft iron pipe for leverage on the ratchet (use at least a 1\2 " or more) to get the crank bolt off (it is really on there good ). Have a buddy hold the strap wrench while you tug on the breaker bar....it is a fun process.....:pat: It is best to have air tools (425 ft-lb gun or more...IR or snap-on....no campbell hausfield crapola). Once you get the bolt off the crank pully will slide right off. If not hit it with some WD-40, let it sit, then hit it with a rubber mallet. Should slide off then.

As for the tensioner I suggest to take off the AC and bracket and just unbolt it from the block. It is a bit more time consuming but it also gives you some more room to work and you don't need any special tools to do it......just a 12mm socket. The other way requires the special tool I think soljah was talking about. I didn't need any special tools at all.

Other than that just be very organized about what you take off and in what order and it should be quite trouble free.

I also expect some pics when you get that Taurus fan on!!!!
Gotta help me out too....I am stoked to try it out.

 

I'll do it! So I won't need any special tools to do it if I remove the AC from the block, right? Do you know if it's the same process for both 97 and 98 4runners?

Chris

 

Does Craftsmen sell a strong enough strap wrench to your knowledge?

 

NO WAY!!!

Go to a good tool rental store and get a heavy duty chain wrench, should be like $10-15 to rent (while I was there the guy gave me a 4' pipe to use as a breaker bar too).

If you are not in a hurry you can get one off of ebay for a reasonable price.

Get one like this (I recommend this type.....make sure chain is long enuf...measure circumference of pulley first):

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=20772

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=31483

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=20772

or this (should work also):

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=26198

I am telling you that bolt is REALLY on there and will easily break any wimpy tools you throw at it. Make sure you have a decent ratchet (craftsman or better) because with a 4' pipe you are putting alot of force on that little device. Also use a long socket to reach the bolt rather than a regular socket with an extension (the extension will absorb all the torque you put on the pipe like a spring...and if wimpy enuf you will shear it right off . It is by far the most physical part of the job. Past that and it will be smooth sailing. Make sure to crank the bolt back on too when you reassemble everything....you don't want the balancer coming off on the highway. :cry:

 

Yep....no special tools!

To the best of my knowledge it is the same process for all the 3.4L motors both 4runners and Tacomas (I have yet to get under the hood of one of the newer models .....03 and up) but you should see the same thing at the basic level from 96 to 02. All they did was tweak things from year to year (like intake silencers, rear springs, yada yada...), no major changes at all.

 

Thanks for all the help man!

 

You bet.....Best of luck with it!
Also the longer the handle on the chain wrench the better....like 24" is twice the leverage of a 12" so you need that much more strength to get the bolt off.

I want to see pics on the Taurus fan when you get it in.
Make sure to include a parts list for us too!

 

I'll do it!

 

Here are some other links to help ya:

http://www.yotarepair.com/5VZ-FEtimingbelt.html

This guy did a really nice write up on it (I find pics much more helpful):

http://www.toy4x4.net/timing_belt/

Even shows the special tool we were talking about.
If you take off the AC bracket you don't need it though.

 

I've bailed on doing it all. I've got a local import shop that is going to do it for $243, which will include the timing belt, water pump, 2 cam seals, crankshaft seal, upper and lower idlers, and thermostat. I just don't have the time to mess with it this week before we leave on Sunday, so I'm going to have him do it this Thursday. Parts are going to cost about $300. What do you guys think?

Chris

P.S. He said that I don't really need to replace anything but the belt and water pump, but he said if I was going to keep the vehicle for a long time, he said it might be a good idea to go ahead and do the other stuff too. He's not charging me any additional labor for the other stuff, so I figured I ought to go ahead and do it.

 

Very nice and effective sources of information. When it's time to do mine, it should be an easy sailing path!

Thanks all,

Nam

 

Anybody done this on a 5spd. Is it feasible to put it in 5th with the e-brake on to prevent the crankshaft from turning while losening/tightening crankshaft pulley bolt? Do you think the clutch would hold? I would think this would work.

 

Use an old belt with a chain wrench on the main pulley.
I used a block of wood between the power steering pulley and the chain wrench handle. I used a 19mm deep socket with a Craftsman breaker bar.

Installation is the same thing except you place the block of wood underneath the power steering pulley or somewhere else.

J

 

I dident see This item suggested....Very helpfull and saved me hours of work. I loosend the crankshaft nut by bumping the starter with a 19mm and a breaker bar resting against the frame. lining up the belt with the marks on the cams and crank took some time, but it must be exact.I have only hand tightend the nut on the crank I do need to get a chain wrench and give it some torque, I check it often it has never came loose but it can.

 

That tool would save a lot of work as I think one of the timing consuming steps is removing the AC compressor bracket.

However, I found out I left the plastic cap for the tensioner in my toolbox. So, I'll need to pull out the tensioner just for that damn cap. Otherwise, I'd love to use the compressor to re-adjust my timing belt as it would save lots of time.

Nobody,
It's not too bad of a job to tighten the main front bolt. Use an old belt on the main pulley and wrap a chain wrench on it. You can position the wrench to go against the bottom side of the AC compressor and use a block of wood to protect the AC compressor. Get a breaker bar and pull with your weight from the side of the engine bay. Measure it with a torque wrench until it reaches spec.

J

 

Yes thats a good idea...im just afraid of maring or nicking the crankshaft pully and possibly shreading a belt- but i know i need to do it and i can just file any sharp edges left by the chain wrench.

 

I always use a chain wrench or a good heavy duty nylon strap wrench (not the plastic BS you can buy at all the chain stores) to loosen or tighten the crank bolt. Just use an old belt to ensure you don't mar the pulley groves or if you don't have one, use a towel wrapped around the crank pulley several times instead (I recommend just sacrificing a belt as the preferable method tho unless you are using the nylon type strap wrench).