timing belt/water pump help- WA State
Jul 17, 2008 | 01:38 PM
#21
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba Canada
The perfect guide ------> http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timing_belt/
Jul 18, 2008 | 10:03 AM
#22
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From: Shelburne, VT previous: Everett, WA; Bellingham, WA
thanks for posting that jay. i saw that while researching and it was perfect! between that and the fsm, i think i'll be just fine
(substitute the brick for wood....
(substitute the brick for wood....
Jul 26, 2008 | 09:19 AM
#25
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From: Shelburne, VT previous: Everett, WA; Bellingham, WA
thanks for the offers guys. fortunately, i already have it all done! 
i wasn't anticipating josh's ability to get the parts in so quick, so the service was done last tuesday/wednesday.
i took my time, and spent about 4 hours working on the truck each day. another important clue (something i thought i wouldn't need) was the SST to hold the crank pulley while torquing the crank bolt.
whether you have a manual or automatic, you'll still need it. phil mentioned just leaving it in gear, but there was still play in the system; enough to let the crank turn over. we tried shoring up the drive shaft. didn't work. so we were left with making a pulley holder anyway!- first out of a 2x4, which broke, then out of an oak 1x2, which did the job nicely.
maybe i'll put some pictures up of the inners of my runner- he may blush though...
i wasn't anticipating josh's ability to get the parts in so quick, so the service was done last tuesday/wednesday.
i took my time, and spent about 4 hours working on the truck each day. another important clue (something i thought i wouldn't need) was the SST to hold the crank pulley while torquing the crank bolt.
whether you have a manual or automatic, you'll still need it. phil mentioned just leaving it in gear, but there was still play in the system; enough to let the crank turn over. we tried shoring up the drive shaft. didn't work. so we were left with making a pulley holder anyway!- first out of a 2x4, which broke, then out of an oak 1x2, which did the job nicely.
maybe i'll put some pictures up of the inners of my runner- he may blush though...
Jul 26, 2008 | 09:59 AM
#26
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From: Shelburne, VT previous: Everett, WA; Bellingham, WA
Some Pictures of the process:
Bled Runner
Old Belt- I just cut it off, un-tensioned the tensioner, then slipped the new belt on.
New Parts
Drive belts, crank bolt, timing belt, water pump, thermostat, lower rad hose (upper already replaced). also 1 gal red coolant, 1 gal distilled water, rented 250 ft/lb torque wrench-
TOTAL PRICE ~$300 in parts w/tax. nothing shipped.
Crank bolt temp. installed to line up timing marks
Broken 2x4 and usable OAK 1x2 SST pulley holder
New Timing belt/water pump in!
Just followed the 4x4wire walkthrough and FSM guidelines, and got-er-done!
Bled Runner
Old Belt- I just cut it off, un-tensioned the tensioner, then slipped the new belt on.
New Parts
Drive belts, crank bolt, timing belt, water pump, thermostat, lower rad hose (upper already replaced). also 1 gal red coolant, 1 gal distilled water, rented 250 ft/lb torque wrench-
TOTAL PRICE ~$300 in parts w/tax. nothing shipped.
Crank bolt temp. installed to line up timing marks
Broken 2x4 and usable OAK 1x2 SST pulley holder
New Timing belt/water pump in!
Just followed the 4x4wire walkthrough and FSM guidelines, and got-er-done!
Jul 27, 2008 | 10:44 PM
#28
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,692
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From: Marysville, WA
thanks for the offers guys. fortunately, i already have it all done!
i wasn't anticipating josh's ability to get the parts in so quick, so the service was done last tuesday/wednesday.
i took my time, and spent about 4 hours working on the truck each day. another important clue (something i thought i wouldn't need) was the SST to hold the crank pulley while torquing the crank bolt.
whether you have a manual or automatic, you'll still need it. phil mentioned just leaving it in gear, but there was still play in the system; enough to let the crank turn over. we tried shoring up the drive shaft. didn't work. so we were left with making a pulley holder anyway!- first out of a 2x4, which broke, then out of an oak 1x2, which did the job nicely.
maybe i'll put some pictures up of the inners of my runner- he may blush though...
i wasn't anticipating josh's ability to get the parts in so quick, so the service was done last tuesday/wednesday.
i took my time, and spent about 4 hours working on the truck each day. another important clue (something i thought i wouldn't need) was the SST to hold the crank pulley while torquing the crank bolt.
whether you have a manual or automatic, you'll still need it. phil mentioned just leaving it in gear, but there was still play in the system; enough to let the crank turn over. we tried shoring up the drive shaft. didn't work. so we were left with making a pulley holder anyway!- first out of a 2x4, which broke, then out of an oak 1x2, which did the job nicely.
maybe i'll put some pictures up of the inners of my runner- he may blush though...
Good to see it all working out nicely.
Aren't factory parts just SOOOO nice?
Jul 27, 2008 | 10:58 PM
#29
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From: Shelburne, VT previous: Everett, WA; Bellingham, WA
and yes, knowing factory parts are in there leave no doubt in my mind they'll last- now it's only the job the installer performed that i'm worried about
Jul 27, 2008 | 11:08 PM
#31
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WOW 1800??? thats rediculous. I got a new harness for it when I bought the motor and it was only $300
As for cali laws your gonna need to run a cat and posibly the egr stuff but all can be added to this motor to make that legal. I just chose not to because its trailered. I loved the power from the motor aspecialy since it has headers and short intake and straight exhaust. its just the electricle I was having problems with. When I had it running perfect I had people tell me it was the best sounding V6 they have ever heard. It sounded beatiful like a V8.
250K on a 3.0
thats as crazy as the 1800 for a harness. One more thing you could look into it the kit from ORS Ithink they now sell and entire motor/body harness to replace yours and its only like 900
As for cali laws your gonna need to run a cat and posibly the egr stuff but all can be added to this motor to make that legal. I just chose not to because its trailered. I loved the power from the motor aspecialy since it has headers and short intake and straight exhaust. its just the electricle I was having problems with. When I had it running perfect I had people tell me it was the best sounding V6 they have ever heard. It sounded beatiful like a V8.
250K on a 3.0
thats as crazy as the 1800 for a harness. One more thing you could look into it the kit from ORS Ithink they now sell and entire motor/body harness to replace yours and its only like 900
Jul 27, 2008 | 11:11 PM
#32
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OH and I am buying a new one from http://www.toyotatruckpart.com/default.asp?p=8
for 1500. I have rebuilt one of these before with cheap ebay parts and it didnt turn out too well. It would cost me about 2000 to build it the way I usually build my 22REs(top of the line parts cost more for a reason!)
I dont know what to do for sure though. Any suggestions?
for 1500. I have rebuilt one of these before with cheap ebay parts and it didnt turn out too well. It would cost me about 2000 to build it the way I usually build my 22REs(top of the line parts cost more for a reason!)
I dont know what to do for sure though. Any suggestions?
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