It does not matter what is printed on the belt it is the cams and crank marks you should be concerned with only. If they are lined up properly then the engine will run exactly as it should.

"Should I move the crank one tooth back so that when it tightens the belt off the water pump, it'll align?" YES

They must be lined up exactly as you turn the engine over.

 

It seems to help setting the crank one tooth back.

When the crank is aligned with the marker, the cams are lined up with their markers within +/- 0.25 tooth. After 10 revolutions with tensioner applied, everything lined up.

So, I was sure it would run great this time around. It runs a lot better, but there is a slight studder at very low rpm (lower 1k range) with very light throttle (like backing out of my driveway). .Between 2krpm to 3krpm with 0 - 2 psi of boost , the truck runs great. It runs fine with 5psi of boost. At the highest gear, WOT, 6psi of boost, around 1.5krpm, it studders a little bit. It's hard to tell if it'll persist since I let off as soon as I feel the engine studder (or miss).

I've noticed that I can hear the timing belt during warm-up. It's a little noisey.
Do I have it on too tight? There wasn't much deflection between idler#1 and crank.

Maybe I need a video of it

J

 

This pic he posted shows where the upper idler pulley bolts up. Right below the upper radiator hose connector and right above the water pump pulley.





AJatx- you shouldn't be seeing any belt shavings at all. Did you get the belt guide plate (looks kinda like a big washer) put back on the crank in the right orientation? It has a slight concave curve on the edges that would dig into the belt if put on backwards.

 

Good call on that.....definately something to check.....you don't want to break a belt and have to do it again.

 

I put the guide on according to the picture.

I went through my old pictures and found that I put it on backwards.

The current pic shows reversed.

J

 

Here is the original pic of the belt guide.

I'm so happy that I at least remembered to take some before-work pics.

J

 

Belt guide is fixed, but the light throttle at low rpms studder is still there.

I checked the sparkplugs and they all look good. I noticed the prongs had some bluish color on it. Most of it looked new.

So, I definitely know I'm off a tooth again. Man, it's fustrating.

J

 

I forgot to put the dust boot back on the tensioner.

Is it worth taking it apart to put the dust boot back in?

J

 

The weird issues I experienced were from cracked sparkplug insulations on #2 and #4 pistons. Replaced those sparkplugs and the truck runs great now.

J