We were driving up to the mountains for the 4th of July weekend to go play and the truck suddenly died going up the road. Got it home and opened it up and found this.



The timing belt was shredded to nothing. There was pile of shavings that were basically dust the size of a softball in addition to all the endless strings of remnants of the belt. What a pain the butt to get it all cleaned out. It was all tangled up in the crank gear and behind it, the lower timing belt cover was essentially gone (only the mounting tabs were left).

What concerns me is that as I was taking it apart, the tensioner FELL out. The bolt must have backed out over time and then finally just came out.

My theory is that it was backing out, and then got so loose that it started to pivot as the belt was pulling it with just a few mm into the threads.

If you look at the this picture, you can see that it tore out a small chunk of the casting as it came out.



This is the piece that was still barely threaded on the bolt when I removed it from laying behind the cover.



After dropping a ton of cash on a new timing belt "kit", and never lower cover, balancer bolt, top and bottom cover seals, and the prospects of having to buy a new torque wrench that gets to 217ft. pds. I really do not want to have to buy a new oil pump (this one have only 30,000 on it).

My thought is to epoxy/JB Weld it, put the bolt back in and let it fly. My only real concern is if that piece is missing, it will not sit flat and cause issues. Replace the piece and holding it into place with the epoxy should address that.

Anyone have an opinion?

 

Fix it right while you are there and forget about it for 90k miles. Otherwise it might happen again and that "what if" will always be in the back of your mind.

That is a mess!

:wabbit2:

 

New AISIN oil pump on rockauto.com $85 = piece of mind.

However, JB weld should work if there are enough threads remaining in the hole (hard to tell by the picture).

 

If that's where the plastic cover attaches, I'd most likely forget about it. If the oil pump housing is cracked then yes replace it. A little blue loctite on the bolt and don't go beyond snug when you put it back together.

 

What a mess!!

No, that is where the bolt for the timing belt tensioner pulley goes. FSM calls for 26 ft-lbs on that bolt. There should be a washer between the oil pump and the pulley also.
http://www.utoyot8.com/Picture.aspx?...&ccode=&ppName=

Will JB hold that......I dunno.

I'd go with a new oil pump.

 

Going with a new pump. Going cheap always screws me.

Thanks for the rock auto heads up. My local napa wanted 150 for the Aisin and Toyota said just bring lube.

I can do 85 plus oil.

Ordered the o ring from Toyota (the even raped me on that!!). $4.50 for an o ring??

 

Wow that sucks man. Hey did you ever get a/c figured out? I have wired it both ways now. 3.4 amp and 3.0 amp. Give me pm if you want help.

 

Still no AC and its 108 today. That will be next after this gets fixed. I will PM you then

 

Dang I know that this is going to be a dumb question but here it goes.

I am replacing the belt and all the compnents. I get the marks all lined up, install the belt, and everything is lined up. Turn the crank and all the matchmarks are perfect but now the marks on the belt are off a tooth. Turn it all the way so the belt rotates again and the mark on the belt off two teeth but the mark on cam and crank are lined up. Another complete rotate of the belt.........you guessed it..........the belt lines are three teeth off while the marks on the cam and crank are still good.

What gives here? Suppose to be like that?

I cant remember. Been forever since I did a timing belt

 

yes, that's normal/correct. as long as you started with the marks correct, you are good to hook.

Very sorry to see this carnage, know the feeling all too well from my CS pulley debacle.

Best of luck to you getting her buttoned back up!

 

100% normal...button 'er up!

 

awesome. Thanks for the replies. I was going nuts. Took it back off and on three times thinking I had something wrong. I even started it without the cover and coolant in just to see how it ran and it ran fine but idled high because its cold and been sitting, but then my mind started thinking maybe because the timing is so far advanced. LOL

So in theory the lines on the belts shouldn't line up again until the belt has rotated the number of times that there are teeth. If it skips a tooth each times around. That correct?

 

Yes, it will line back up at some point, but the cam marks and crank marks are the critical things. The marks on the belt are just for initial set-up.