You won't hurt anything with the meth so it will be trial and error. If you have 100% meth then I would start with the largest nozzle, do some 3rd gear pulls and see where you stand. Then mess with the turn on point until it doesn't cause any bogging/hiccups.

Once you have that semi sorted (the ECU will learn over about a week and adapt so don't get too exact with it, it will be a slow process that you tinker with some for a few weeks to dial in. If you had a tunable ECU then things would be different.

After that, Yes, I would start turning the boost up slowly until the AFR's level out somewhere in the 11's, allowing it to dip into the 12's at redline is ok with meth but no leaner then low 12's IMO as you want some room for error.

Basically see how things go and adjust as you go. You will want to play with the max flow setting as well but it will not make as much of a difference as you think really, just set it best you can.

 

Just wanted to chime in and say that I got the Coolingmist kit completely installed and been to the track 1 time. I spent most of that time trying to figure out how to turn the failsafe off. The system hasn't fully learned so I was getting errors and the system was shutting down after 330'. So there I sat trying to read on my iphone how to "fix" the damn thing while people were trying to talk to me all night about my ghetto pvc setup. I finally got the hang of going thru the parameters and getting it dialed in. I finally got it somewhat dialed in on my last run of the night.

The Coolingmist installation and setup instructions leave a lot to be desired. The grammar isn't very good at times. The instructions are more written for the older system, not so much the 4.11 and 5.11 systems. I had to call customer support a couple times which is a guy's cell phone. He always answers the phone with his name only. Never "Coolingmist, how can I help" or anything like that, which I would have expected. The two times I called he didn't really have much specific information, just things like "uh, yeah, I think that's right". A shame, because I've seen Coolingmist very active on several forums (SRT) and seems extremely helpful. The kit, however is very nice product. I'd say you need to be comfortable with electrical systems to install it. I soldered and shrink wrapped every connection, thus adding to the installation time. There were about 14 wires in the installation total, and about 4 runs of 8' that needed to go into the engine bay. The wire that was included wasn't enough. The solenoid is a beauty. The gauge is solid. Every piece is actually very nice.

 

This is why I always learn a system and get it setup before going to the tracl, I find the track to be a horrible place to dial things like this in.

Once you learn the system it is really not that bad as long as you have the manaual to tell you which option does what. The manual is a bit lacking though, we agree there.

 

If you want to manually learn the system, do you have to manually roll through all the duty cycles 20 times? Do you "save" the settings after each run thru the duty cycles? I see the vague instructions say that if you let it auto-learn it samples each duty cycles 20 times. It says nothing about 20 times for the manual learn.

 

I honestly don't know, my kit is the older model before the autolearn was released.

Best bet is to call them again lol.

 

Thought I'd update this thread to mention that the AEM nozzles are non-standard threads on the top. They are the standard 1/8" NPT on the injection side, but the input side is something different. My pretty little Coolingmist 90s won't fit on it. Also you cannot buy the AEM nozzles without buying their kit. AEM does also not make a 90 fitting for it. It's a fine nozzle and all, but I would probably have gone with a different brand had I known they weren't 1/8"npt on the top. Now I am either going to retap a hole off to the side of the throttle body (so the hood can close without interference) or try to find the thread pitch and get a fitting.

I'm sure all this has been mentioned, but this thread is 11 pages deep now. "ain't_nobody_got_time_for_that.jpg"

 

I picked up a sweet deal on a cooling mist standard trunk mount system that was new but only a stage 1. Anyway got it all in but on test drive when I finally kicked in boost and I believe the pump went on and then I got a check engine light (code 1300- ignition circuit) and a fuel cut happened. I have a supercharger and 7th system. Where is a good place to cut in for power? Maybe I need to redo the electrical hook up. Any ideas to trouble shoot? Thanks Jason

 

That is very strange indeed. I would bench test the kit. With the supercharger you can build boost by going WOT on free rev. Try that with the hose pulled out of the nozzle and make sure it is flowing properly.

Where are you tapping power now? It should be coming off the battery.

 

Well that is the problem then. Instructions said a switched power source so I tied into ignition wire. I can run a line over from the battery and check that first. But I will also make sure that it is flowing correctly at boost.. hopefully pump is not jacked.. Thanks TA!

 

Ouch, yeah that would be a problem. You MUST use a relay with any power source pulling the kind of power a pump does but ESPECIALLY with a switched power source.

 

Yeah the coolingmist instructions don't have a relay. They have the power source running to the pressure switch with a 15 amp fuse and the pump directly to another port on the pressure switch. This is basic wiring and asking you this but confused on best way to hook up the relay. Does it go from the ground side and hooks into the positive side of the pump? I know dumb question. I think the instructions are throwing me off.

 

Yeah, forget those instructions.

Basically just install a relay in the power wire to the pump. The pressure switch will trigger the relay. Google wiring diagrams for the relay. I would put the relay on the positive side of the pump but either will work.

I would also get power directly from the battery, using the fuse of course.

 

Ok so I have one prong going to ground from the relay. One goes to the pump on the positive side and the other prong runs to the pressure switch. The other connection on the pressure switch has the power from the battery but I think I need to move that to the relay. So now I need another power lead to the pressure switch. Should this come from the same lead that will now run to the relay? Or is this a switched ignition power running to the pressure switch? I just have this last thing and I should be good. I don't know why this of all things I am confused on.. Thanks TA.

 

See this:



Replace lights with pump.

The pressure switch is what will activate the relay, it just needs low voltage passing through it to do this.

The high current side of the relay will go to the battery with a fuse and the other side will go to the pump. Then ground the negative side of the pump.

Edit, here is a devils own diagram, much better then coolingmist:

 

Wow thanks TA - I got it running now. It was where I was tying in for ignition power. Now I am at fuse box and working but I will go back over with this diagram and make sure it's good. Man The coolingmist layout is terrible compared to this. Thanks for your help. Now I need to learn how to tune the 7th. I used to run the supra injectors with an ftc and that made sense to me but the 7th tuning does not yet. At idle my fuel trims are pretty lean so I need to figure out what to do with that. Thanks again! Btw like the videos.

 

Tuning the 7th is hard due to the stupid software. Besides that it is easy though.

First off zero out the maps in all the vacuum areas. It will not touch anything when not in boost, the stock ECU will handle everything. Then reset the ECU by pulling the fuse for a bit and trying to start it.

After that the the only thing the 7th will do is handle the in boost areas, ignore everything not int he boost areas.

In those areas simply add fuel until the AFR's are correct and you are done.

Leave the timing map alone, you can zero it out if you don't have any knocking issues.

 

Hey TA - Question for you. Have been trying tune with the meth and 7th and getting very rich in boost. Like down to 9 AFR in some areas. I think it is when the meth/water kicks in. Where is the optimal point to inject in your opinion? Unfortunately I have just the pressure switch so it is on/off capability for now (wish i could wire in my spare split second FTC-1 to time the injection). I am still trying to remove fuel from the map though. I have not played with the preloaded duty cycles that came from URD, only the injector timing thus far. I just lower that number by a tenth in the boost regions and try again.

I am bogging down in WOT and you can feel the engine kinda lurching due to the high fuel. Otherwise the addition has been a nice benefit in mid torque without jumping down hard. Need to get my LC-1 communicating with the laptop so I can use cam studio to really do some work. Just wanted to get your thoughts. Thanks TA

 

Datalog the pull and see where it goes rich, then remove fuel from that area.

If all else fails setup a camera to see the wideband, RPM and boost gauge and watch it carefully.

Far as when to inject, as early as possible without bogging is best. What size nozzle are you using?

Remove more then a .1 at a time if you are really in the 9's. You might even have to zero out the map to get the AFR's in check.

 

just hooked up a devils own kit... used the small nozzle 3gph..

using just water most of my low rpm knock went away. went to 50/50 water/meth and it feels a lot better towing but i havent really felt much power increase on the top end of things...

my wide band is showing low 12s now instead of 12.7-13.5 at WOT so i feel better about pushing the truck hard.. i really want to see what the dyno tells me tho because the butt dyno says i havent gained much..

 

Are you supercharged? NA won't gain much at all.

Supercharged the biggest gains will be with a smaller pulley. I also noticed that when running water I didn't notice as much/any power gain compared to 100% meth.

Water will bog the engine VERY easy and rob as much power as it adds in some cases.