4biker

I picked up some denso's from the dealer yesterday (cheaper than anywhere else), and put them in last night (28 minutes with anti-seize and dielectric grease application - I'm getting good at plugs). This morning it definitely ran better but there was still some hesitation. Not like the obvious bogging, but definitely some hesitation. I'm going to put new plug wires on today (NGK) and that should help or hopefully eliminate that. I've got the OBDII scanner coming in tomorrow so we can see what the engine is doing a little better and see how she runs. Hopefully I can get the wideband ordered this week as well but we'll see what the budget allows for.

Texas_Ace

Well just keep knocking away at it. Without the wideband you are kinda shooting blind for the most part. The OBDII can at least give you an indication of when open loop is kicking in and what the fuel trims are can give you a window into whats going on.

4biker

Ok it's been quite a couple of weeks! I've got the AFR gauge in now, and it's pushing as high as 15.3 under boost, so I've decided to pick up the URD 7th kit, and probably a pulley. It's good to know that there's no bogging with the new injectors, but I'm afraid to enjoy any boost since I might be killing the engine in the beast.
Ace, thanks for all the info - you're easy to talk to about this, and you're a great answer man. I'm a little bit sheepish to ask this though - what do you think for pulley size? My initial thought is to go with just a 2.2, but will I be happy with it? Honestly I want to have the truck get from 0-60 in about 7 seconds but it's also OLD! I don't want to blow anything up. Another consideration is that I'm at over 4000ft of elevation, so I'm at a distinct disadvantage when it comes to power, so would you think the 2.1 is a viable option for me, or is it pushing too hard?

Texas_Ace

With meth injection the 2.1 will work perfectly fine. That said it is still gonna be slow. The supercharger is simply not sized properly to make good power and even with everything I did to my truck it was just running 0-60 in the high 7 second range and 1/4 in the 14 range. A lot of that was due to the converter though.

If you want to go faster you want to go turbo. No question about it at all. Turbo will start out where the supercharger maxes out. Which is why I sold my SC with plans to go turbo. SC is ok bolt on upgrade, but what you get is what you get. VERY hard to push past it.

Robb235

Been playing around with my water/meth kit in the kitchen, hooking up the water pump to an old 12v drill battery with some alligator clips. I "injected" water from a milk jug full of water, to an emtpy milk jug. I noticed that when I cut the power off to the pump, water kept injecting for a couple more seconds as the pressure bled down. Looks like I'll be needing some sort of a solenoid to block the flow at the nozzle when pump cuts off.

Without going back and re-reading all 10 pages, I can't remember if anything addressed this issue.

Texas_Ace

A check valve should be used for this, it is a must if injecting after the throttle body.

If injecting into the intake piping then you should be fine without it. Will waste a little fluid as it shuts down but no harm done.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

What would be the consequences of spraying a 10gph spray of meth/water or straight meth at very low boost such as 1psi in CLOSED LOOP. Would the truck cut fuel to remain stoich?

Texas_Ace

Nothing wrong with it, thats what I did. 14gph of pure meth starting at 1psi.

It will take a week or 2 for the ECU to relearn and adjust for it. While that happens you might get some hickups while driving but nothing bad. Once it adjusts it drives fine though.

Although really unless you have access to cheap bulk methanol like me having it turn on at a higher boost level will save you quite a bit of methanol.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Anybody got anything bad or good to say about the AEM 30-3300 v2 http://www.aemelectronics.com/v2-1-g...ernal-map-1306

The price is much cheaper (sub $400 on ebay) compared to every other brand, for the features. It includes an internal map for progressive spray, failsafe switched ground for a failsafe of my choosing, and a low fluid float switch integrated into the tank, and 3 nozzles including a 1000cc/min nozzle which I would be using for straight meth.

The Devil's Own progressive kit, for instance, is $355. It doesn't include a failsafe, float switch, or even tank. Plus I would have to additionally purchase their 14gph nozzle for an additional $20.

Texas_Ace

The V2 is supposed to be better then the junk V1 I had but a few things to note.

The failsafe is a joke, I could not make mine go off except with the low fluid switch, you can get one of those for any kit for $2 on ebay. So it really has no failsafe at all.

The progressive injection is just eh, without a failsafe you won't be able to take advantage of it anyways so really there is no need to spend the extra money for it.

Basically, I would get a devils own Stage 1 kit over the AEM, save the money for something else.

That said, in your case in particular where you will be counting on it to save your motor, it would be worth it to step up to a good quality kit with failsafe. I recommend the coolingmist CMGS autolearn, best bang for the buck I have found. It has a failsafe that actually does something.

For nozzles devils own has the best quality and price.

For the tank I recommend using the factory washer fluid tank, makes things simpler.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Dang I don't want to spend that much. My thinking was that I want a progressive controller in case I run out of meth I can run washer fluid and turn the progressive control up on the high side to limit the amount of fluid. Effectively never allowing it to spray a full 14gph or whatever. Also with progressive I could run a crazy big nozzle like a 1000cc/min without hiccups in closed loop. I could later add in another nozzle to add more meth without fear closed loop tune. Does this make any sense?

I agree I'll virtually require a fail safe. Does the ecu have some kind of a limp mode wire? Or what fail safe methods do I have? I was just considering a light and buzzer for low fluid and another for electrical fault/short.

Texas_Ace

That is not how the progressive meth kit works. At the very best you can hope for a 50% reduction in flow rate at the lowest duty cycle. So for a 14gph, at best you could hope for 7gph of flow if turned all the way down. Now that does allow you to run a larger nozzle then you otherwise would but not nearly as linear as you make it out to be.

You don't want to have to mess with the injection rate, if you are forced to run something other then what you normally run, just leave it alone, better off having too much the too little.

Will cause some power loss and maybe even a hiccup but thats better then a blown motor. You should not be boosting it if it is not running under the right conditions anyways.

The failsafe would most likely just go to the wastegate, bypassing whatever boost controller you use and taking you to wastegate pressure, which should be safe enough should something go wrong.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Some kind of a solenoid tee'd into my boost reference line (with the MBC on it) that would open upon low level? What about clogged injector or insufficient flow? Just monitor AFR gauge?

And yeah I assumed it was a linear progression. I'm leaning toward a progressive kit though.

Texas_Ace

Correct, the exact setup will depend on the boost contoller but it will bypass it.

A noid like this works fine: http://pneumaticautomationcontrols.a...12vdc?&seo=110

If you get the coolingmist kit then anytime the failsafe goes off, you want boost cut to wastegate. You never want to boost when things are not in tip top shape. Thats how you blow a motor.

If you get the AEM kit it only ever goes off on low fluid level, so the same as if you wired in a fluid sensor yourself.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Went with the Coolingmist CMGS Autolearn. I figured I better do fueling the right way. Still a a lot cheaper than a 7th injection, not to mention I'd have to fab to fit another injector anyway. Plus my setup will be highly dependent upon meth, and if something goes south, so does my motor. Thanks for the suggestion TA.

Texas_Ace

Now you just need to find a source for methanol by the drum as that is the only real way to use methanol for extra fueling if you drive it hard. I would go through 1-2 gallons per tank of gas easy if driving normal and a fair amount more if I really hammered it during the tank.

Luckily methanol around here is cheaper then gas so I actually improved my MPG lol.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

I am going to the race track again today. They sell methanol for $5/gal. I'm going to get a price for a whole drum. I brought a 5 gal container so I'll go ahead and get a litttle.

Texas_Ace

Ouch, it is half that price around here. Try looking around for the big supplier for your area.

I am lucky that most of the methanol for the US comes through my area.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

And we just get half the meth (amphetamine) which is also cheap. But I digress...

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

How do I go about initial tuning with meth? Turn meth on full blast and keep increasing boost until I hit 11.5 or so? Keep adjusting the high side of the progressive controller as I turn up the boost, or have it all come in real early (like 4-5psi) to be safe?

I have no target PSI, so I guess just as much as it wants to make safely. I figure my Holset is good for 40+ psi LOL