hey guys, i have 85k miles on my 4runner, i was wondering if i should run synthetic and what are the pro's and con's...and if i decide to change, how would i go about doing it?? just switch on the next oil change?? what is a good type of synthetic oil??

 

There is an interesing thread in maintenance section about change intervals, Here.

I quote myself from that thread:
I like the Havoline synth so far.

 

I run Amsoil everwhere in my rig that requires some kind of oil.

The pros are it might increase your mileage. I said might, because I did not see any.
But I like the fact that my engine is better protected with the syn oil as it does not break down as fast.

I use to change the dino out at every 2K, and it was dirty by then.
With the Amsoil, I let it go about 4K, and it still looks almost new in color.
It also does not burn or leak like some say it might.
Mine is always up to the full mark no matter what the mileage.

Amsoil, and I'm sure Mobil One might have it too, is a can of stuff you put in with your old dino oil before you drain it.
It helps to get it all out. I had the dealer use it the right before my first changover to Amsoil.

Read Gadget's site for more info on syn oils.

 

so should i just switch on the next oil change??

 

Yep. If you go Amsoil, they have different grades. I forget which one mine is.
I'll have to look later.

I think mine can go a year, but I don't let it go much over 4K.
Corey

 

Great info again Corey! I would run Amsoil as well, but seeing that you already have 85K on your engine before you switch over to Amsoil Synthetic Oils make sure you run their Amsoil Fast Acting Engine Flush... Product Code: AEF



Just put it in (with your current oil) before you change over to Amsoil Synthetics ... I think you need to run it about 500- 1000 miles or so (check the directions).

This product will prep your engine for Amsoil Synthetic Oils by cleaning and restoring the valves, valve lifters, rocker arms, and pistons.

It is not a requirement, but it makes good sense because it will clean all of the deposits and sludge from your engine and should restore it back to optimum working efficiency ... This way you will get the full effect of the Amsoil Oils.

Just my .02

 

thanks alot guys!! i'll let you know what i switch to..and is there anywhere i can get amsoil oil?? or do i have to order it from online?? thanks!

 

Gadget is a dealer but I don't know if you can buy through him. I saw on the TTORA Boards that Ultimate Offroad sells AMSOIL through their site if you want to go that way. I have also heard that some automotive shops sell it but I have yet to find one.

I will be making the change soon myself.

 

bighead, how do you like the trd exhaust? i was plannin on getting those but didn't know if they sounded nice or whatever..also, do you know the pipe's size? it's probably 2.25 but i wanted to have the shop see if they can stretch it to 2.5. is it possible if you put a sound clip of you startin the car and revving a lilttle so i can hear the roar?? hehhe...also if you find a reliable dealer of amsoil and such, please let me know...thanks!

 

Here is a Borla/TRD exhaust.
http://www.pnw4runners.net/exhaust/mikes_borla.mpg

I have not got around to adding it to my Exhaust page yet.
http://www.pnw4runners.net/exhaust/exhaust.htm

Jason knows the guy, but he sold the Runner. It is on a 3rd gen.

 

sweet corey, that is a pretty good clip...do you know if that is the same exhaust as the ones with the pipe to the side or is that just a personal preference for the tip in the back or side?? but thanks again..and did anyone tell you how good of an admin you are!!!!


p.s. beowulf. if i use the engine flusher, can i go with a different syn oil or do i have to use the amsoil oil? also, corey, what type of syn amsoil oil should i use? i looked at amsoil's page and they have a ton of different kinds? thanks!

 

Nice exhaust tangent!! This started off as an oil thread.

Question 1: should I run synth... pros and cons?

Answer: Yes you should if you can afford it. But proper changes of conventional oil like the owners manual reccomends will not hurt your motor. Pros: longer intervals between changes, better lubrication and less friction in the motor. Cons: If you have a leak already it will get worse with synth since the molecules are smaller, its more expensive.

Question 2: How do I switch?

Answer: (this ought to be good) Just friggin drain the old stuff and put the synth in with a new, quality filter.

Rant: Any liquid product that claims to add metal to the worn parts of your engine IS FEEDING YOU HORSE˟˟˟˟. How exactly does any liquid " restore the valves, valve lifters, rocker arms, and pistons?"
If you have worn valves, rockers, lifters and pistons the only way to restore them is to replace them. If there is any true, scientificly indisputable evidence (not just marketing claims) to the contrary please post it, i'm dying to hear them.

Question 3: What is a good type of synthetic oil?

Answer: Any synthetic oil is a "good type" and far better than conventional oil, hence the higher price.

I wanted to try 0W-30 grade synth after reading the parts of Gadget's "oil bible" that you don't have to pay for I couldn't find any so I settled for 5W-30. My personal experience is that 10W-30 Synth is better than equivilant conventional. 5W-30 synth is better than 10W.

I have no hesitation running my 196,000 mile engine to 65 mph in 3rd gear (out of 5) under heavy load up hill. The motor has less of a rattley "please lift" noise and more of a "yeah, bring it on" noise since I put the Havoline 5W-30 synth in. I cannot give RPM info since I have no tachometer, but my ears tell me that i'm running higher revs than before and the motor protests much less.

IMHO Amsoil is overrated. Without a doubt its overpriced. Cheaper and more readily available oils work just as well.

 

I know this thread started as an "oil thread", but I just had to comment on the TRD Exhaust. CLin9383, I had the TRD exhaust installed last month..and I love it .
I had the 'Ravin' muff' at first, but it was too loud in the cabin...

 

Clin, you will have to contact Jason for the exhaust info.

The oil I use from Amsoil is the "Turbo Formulated" formula.
http://www.amsoil.com/products/atm.html



I'm not sure what Gadget and other Amsoil folk's are running, but my rep told me this is what to run in the state of WA. for our climate.

The main Amsoil warehouse outlet is just a few miles from me, so I lucked out for a place to get it from.
Look in your yellow pages under auto oil, and you may find an Amsoil outlet by you too.

It says on the above site this about my oil:
"Personal passenger vehicles with gasoline engines: drain oil at 25,000-mile or one-year intervals, whichever comes first."

However I don't like to go past 4K with it. I'm old fashioned
But changing it out that early doesn't bother me, even if it can go a lot longer.
I treat my Runner like it's a queen, and it takes care of me. Nothings to good for it.

Dang, I'm a gonna have to get me one of them thar winter racing jackets from them.



Thanks for the compliment. We try and make this a darn good place to come to and share our love and enthusiasm for our Toy's.
Corey

 

Thanks for posting the sound clips Corey. I don't have a clue on how to do that or make one.

CLin9383: The 2nd Gen TRD exhaust does sound different than the 1st Gen (Borla) does. I like the sound of the 2nd Gen better. It has a different sound. More throaty. Not as high pitched as the Borla.

 

I use whatever brand Syn oil the dealer uses. In my Runner I didn't see any improvement in gas mileage, it's like pushing a box down the road anyway.

When I had my Volvo S80 T6 I had a 1.5 mpg highway increase when I went from Dino to Syn. Aerodynamics, I assume, was the difference between the 2 vehicles results.

26.5 to 28 using the trip computer milage on almost identical ~2500 mile round trips.

 

I'd stay with 2.25" piping if I were you. If you go larger you might lose some low end HP and torque. Bigger is not always better......

 

Yeah, my rig is so very un aerodynamic, it's a joke to expect better mileage.

If I took the roof rack off, and went back to a stock size tire, I could squeeze close to 19 city/highway.
Did that when I first got it and had 245 size snow tires on there.
They are not to much bigger than the stock 235 size it's geared for.

Now it's common for my rig to see 13 mpg city/highway every fill up.
It's probably more like 14 to 15 though taking in to consideration the speedo difference from my 31" tires.

Do I care about gas mileage? Hell nooooooooo
If I did, I'd sell the rig and drive a Yugo.

 

WTF are you talking about? Where does it say it adds metal to your warn parts?

It helps restore internal components by cleaning the sludge and deposits off of them ... It does not add liquid metal :pat:

Look at it this way, if you leave an exposed piece of metal to the elements, over time it will collect rust ... by sanding it down you can restore the finish close to the original.

 

So does this product restore the valves, etc. by sanding them down? That's what it kinda sounds like you are saying. :pat: