the1998sr5

I am new to the forum and find myself in a very challenging situation. My t4r (1998, 160k) has been misfiring for almost two months. The code that came up when it first happened in a small water crossing was a P1300 Igniter code. Since I cleared the code it has not come back (meaning the code, the misfire is still present).

My local Toyota dealer was not willing to work on my truck because they have been very busy, but they said the codes are often accurate and I should try a new igniter.

Long story short, my buddy has a t4r same year and model and I swapped in his igniter, started her up and it did not help. My big question of the day is- do I need to run the new igniter for more than a few minutes for it to help, or should I have reset the computer (battery disconnect).

Basically I am asking if the ECM may have adjusted to the bad igniter causing the swap with my buddies igniter to not have an effect?

Also, as of this week- the problem which was very consistent has become mildly intermittent-for about 5 minutes each day- it has run perfect. Then, when revved- it will misfire again.

Any other advice would be appreciated, all I want to do is strap my Canoe to the roof and drive into he woods for the weekend and being that I am on the East Coast, I have lost most of my summer!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

When was the last time you changed your plugs and wires

I can`t see how it can be missing and not throw a code

My ECM used to give me that code and it would shut off the fuel along with a bunch of others.

Turned out it was the ECM

the1998sr5

The Plugs and Wires are brand new, I changed them when it started missing.

There originally was a code, P1300. I cleared it and it has not come back.
It is an Igniter, or igniter circuit code. I guess it could be the ECU, I did however, pull it out for a quick look and it appeared to be clean (as in not rusty, and not wet).

I also had the compression checked, which was good.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Since you cleared the code how far have you driven??

2 months it looks like

You MIL is now not lit is that correct?? The light never came back on.

The bulb does work yes?? Comes on when the ignition is on before starting??

If the light no longer works interesting

Are you sure it is a miss??

Just how deep was this little water crossing ??

If you got a lot of water in the cab or the engine compartment who knows.

I find it hard to believe a dealer would turn work away or do you mean they could not take you right in that minute.

I would say hook it up to a scanner and see what the real time data is

With these newer engines the best way to troubleshoot things.

the1998sr5

The crossing was not very deep, maybe 2 ft. It reached the bottom of the bumper.

My local dealer has bad reviews, it was obvious- since I got there that they were not looking forward to helping me troubleshoot my problem.

The light works, but has not come back on (lights at start up)

The problem has recently become intermittent. It will clear up on its own for sometimes, but after a restart it will do it again. For the 1st month and a half it was constant. The stored code is P1300 (Igniter, or igniter circuit)

Is it truly a misfire? I guess that may be debatable. It idles very rough, but once it is past 2K RPM, It feels normal.

Thanks for your time here, do you have any other suggestions? I will try and get a real-time code this week.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Have you changed the fuel filter ?/

With this gas now I see more filter changes then ever.

I can`t figure why it does not trip the MIL if indeed it is a miss.

the only thing a poor connection on one of the plug or coil connections could cause that as well any of of the other connections also.

I ran the grounds for the ECM direct to the battery .

Bad grounds and loose connections can do all sorts of things kinky things to computer controlled vehicles.

I fought with a intermittent problem a good 6 months till I just took a wild guess and got a new ECM.

Just what year are you working on and what engine.

Any where near eastern Pa at all If you are I would be glad to help in person.

Good luck!!

the1998sr5

Thanks wyoming9. Again I appreciate the brainstorming here.

I think it is time for me to do a little "guess and hope for the best at this point." I am going to get new plugs, wires, and coil packs- then try to get them in this weekend.
-I dropped my truck off at a local shop when this first happened and they put in single ground plugs. ( I know they require duals)

If that doesn't work, I may try another round of guesswork and grab a used ECM and igniter from ebay.

I could get to Eastern PA. but I want to go back over this once before I would bug you.

The problem seems to be getting increasingly mysterious. Where for the 1st month and a half, it constantly misfired, now- it seems to stop during my drive to work in the morning for a few miles. If I restart, it comes right back. And- it does it the whole way home, and any other time I use the truck. But for some reason, it clears up for a few mile on the way to work?!?

- I have not done a fuel filter, but going back to the root of the issue, it happened when I got it wet- I feel like that rules out the fuel filter. (But coincidences do happen.)

Do you think it could be the Crankshaft positioning sensor, would that cause a misfire?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Do I understand correct your running the wrong spark plugs ????

I am sorry if I am reading this wrong!!

On a computer controlled engine !!!!!!

You are not tripping the MIL

Yet it runs like dodo !!

Do you see a pattern here??

You soaked the engine took it to a clueless shop.

The engine dried out the code never came back nor is it throwing any codes now

If you understood how this ignition system worked you would be surprised the engine runs as good as it does.

Sad fact if you look up the year and engine at your normal auto part store it will give you the single ground plug

I would bet that is your issue wrong plugs and if they also installed aftermarket wires some of my engines run poorly on any but Toyota wires.

Their plugs and wires are not all that bad price wise.At least I don`t think so .

ARB1977

NGK wires are good. 20K since I changed mine.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Just curious if you got this figured out??

the1998sr5

UPDATE-

I got frustrated and ordered Brand new Coil Packs, Plugs, and the correct wires. All Products were NGK or Denso.

The issue is still there, the car is definitely still misfiring.

I am now about 500$ into this problem, I love this truck and I am determined to fix this.

Recently, when I start the truck in the morning it is running good for about 5 minutes, then it misfires again (previously it happened all the time). After work (7 hours of sitting) it misfires on startup which is confusing to me.

The last mechanic was better, he actually owned a 97 t4r for a few years. He thinks it is in the igniter circuit and he referred me to an electrical expert.

At this point, I whish I could just pay someone to go over everything. It has been 2.5 months now and I am going crazy. No one mechanic has been interested in spending the time looking for a loose wire/ground/resistor.

What do you guys think would be best at this point??

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

The thing I don`t get is that it does not trip the MIL!! even if it is a random misfire it should

So you have no place to start .

If you plug in a scanner and read real time data does it show anything abnormal?/

I take it the P1300 code has never come back.

every time my ECM threw that code it shut down.

If you feel like taking a ride the igniters I have are the same if it is a 3.4 can`t hurt to try.

I gotta wonder if it is not just a bad connection?/

You now have the correct plugs installed??

the1998sr5

Here is the code history;
water crossing- check engine light came on-ran code at shop=P1300

cleared code-drove for a week-light came back on-P1300

new mechanic cleared code-code hasn't come back for two months now

I do not have a scanner for real time data, but that would be interesting.

I have the correct plugs and wires now-dual ground ngks as and I pulled the parts number from this forum ( as I did with the wires and 3 brand new coil packs)

I recently pulled the igniter out again and cleaned up the area where it grounds to the frame, I even put a little dielectric grease on it.

The area on the inside of the fender raised my suspicion because there was some sediment in that region (perhaps from splashing). As mentioned though, I did try a buddy of mine's igniter and it did not help. With that being said though, I did not bolt it in, I just plugged the connecter in and cranked the engine.

Perhaps I should throw in another igniter, bolt it in, and drive it for a week? It just seems so odd that this problem was completely constant for a long time, but not for 5 minutes out of my morning commute- it runs fine.

One of the mechanics who "ran a diagnostic" said that he concluded it was only misfiring until 1400RPM, however this is not consistent with my opinion.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

That bolt just holds it to the inner fender.

The brown wire in the plug is your ground for the igniter

As it is for the O2 sensor

the1998sr5

Do you think it could be a Crankshaft Positioning Sensor?

rworegon

Are you using any coolant? It almost seems that some coolant may be leaking into the cylinder under certain conditions causing the misfire. Does the misfire clear after driving it for a bit on your way home from work?

the1998sr5

I do not believe it is using any coolant. It looks like it is always about the same mark.

I also had it compression tested, compression is good.

And, this originally happened at a water crossing (about 2 ft). Which, I do not feel would correspond with a coolant leak.

-Another quick note, I took a look at the old plugs (which ran for about a month and a half with the misfire), and they look exactly as the should. Meaning not black, or gunked or burnt. I had expected that one or two of them would look different.

-This week I have been feeling like it could be the crankshaft positioning sensor because that sits low on the engine and was right about at he water line of the crossing. According to some Google searches it seems there is some confusion as to weather the CPS could be causing this. Some say it could cause an intermittent misfire, while others have suggested the car simply wouldn't start.

What do you think?

cajieboy

Interesting thread. The intermittent missing has recently begun on my engine too. I have a 2002 4Runner V6 SR5 2WD w/about 260,000 mi. Plugs, Wires, Boots changed out about 50,000 miles ago.

My problem started out of the blue, and quite suddenly last week on a trip. Pulled into a Rest Area, and when I cranked-up to leave the engine starts this missing/misfiring. On the highway, I got it to smooth out accerating at higher speeds. No check engine light, but I think it's burnt out.
After driving it for 4-5 days and 800 miles later, I returned home and took it to a local shop. After a scan, mechanic showed me the vehicle had thrown a P300 code, and showed the cylinders. Diagnosis was that I needed a new coil pack and plugs for the two cylinders. Work was done, and the mechanic told me he added a new wire as well. The vehicle ran great that afternoon, and drove probably 4-5 miles in it, and a trip to the supermarket.

Next day, had an errand to run about 10 miles from home, and about halfway there, the engine started this intermittent missing/misfiring, but this time not as bad as before, and more intermittent. Yesterday on Friday morning, I get up to the shop at 8:30am for them to take a look, and the engine is running smooth. The mechanic says come back when it's running rough and he'll take a look. I drive off, and go to do some another errands, but on the way there, the problem mysteriously reappears. Later on, I get back over to the shop but everyone had gone early for Labor Day Weekend. Geez, this is driving me nuts!! Any and all help would be welcome & appreciated. Thanks.

john22rebuilder

Boy i wish mine would even start misfire could be an injector when its misfiring remove each plug wire one at a time and see if that makes cange if so its on that plug/injector, if plugs and wires are new suspect injector test it for ohms then w a noid light at plug from harness if pass suspect coil, ignitor, circuit or ecm

john22rebuilder

Thing is i have SEEN injector misfire at low speed and run cherry at above high speed idle just sayin.