wormhole

Okay, I'm probable going to get flamed for asking a stupid question like this but oh well.

I'm going to be changing the front brakes out tonight on my 2000 4runner (with the wagoner pads, can't afford the Tundra brake upgrade right now) and I've been looking though the repair manual on how to replace the pads (last set of pads I replaced was about 5 years on my old camry)now where does it say to bleed the brakes.

Do I need to bleed brakes after replacing the pads? From the looks of it seems pretty straight forwards at it doesn't appear that you need to.

Teuf

As far as I recall no break bleeding needed. But it never hurts to do it. As in if the fluid is older, may as well fresh'n them up. Get a second person to help, start with the break furthest away. I used to do mine by myself, pump breaks / stick on pedal to seat cushion to hold, break bleeder, do again. Took ages.

J2F42C

Just make sure to draw out a little brake fluid out of the master cylinder before pushing in the pistons. Use some brake lube on the back of the pads. Barring rust, not a hard job to tackle.

If you have the time, a good bleed always helps braking.

swampfox

It would be better to open the brake bleeder when pushing the piston in. pushing the fluid back into the mc can sometimes damage the anti lock system. A shop I worked the boss insisted on it being done this way. just a suggestion.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

x2
when you're gonna collapse the calipers, crack the bleeder open.
Collapse the calipers then tighten the bleeber promptly.
This way you get rid of the old fluid stuck inside the caliper. Brake fluid i believe is only good for up to 3 years iirc. It can only hold so much moisture before its no good. When you're done bleeding and there's fluid everywhere.. just spray it down with water..

Teuf

See, you learn something every day.

J2F42C

I've never done it this way, but if one does not bleed the whole system at the same time, cracking open the bleeder is the better way to go......

rideexileex

iTrader: (1)

Just to throw one more issue out there - will you be turning the rotors/replacing them when doing the pads?

wormhole

No there's no rotor wrapage and the they are still within spec.

Changing out the pads was a snap. Thank you Toyota.

Nogarage

Does anyone have experience with the "Speed Bleeder" bleeder screws? the kind with the built-in check valve??

daved5150

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, as a matter of fact I do. I have them on two vehicles, my 1996 F250 and my 1998 4Runner. The 4runner I'm working on now. I came on Yotatech to find out about bleeding the brake MC because I removed the LSPV and replaced it with a Summit Racing manual valve by the MC. I also replaced the brake line going to the rears, the drums and hardware, and the wheel cylinders. Bleed the brakes and pedal was still mushy. I figured the MC has air in it and will bleed that tomorrow. I read to loosen the fittings while another person is pushing the pedal down to get air out and tighten it back up before they release pedal. Any one else have any info for this? Thanks.

Back to the SpeedBleeders. They are great when they work like they are supposed to but when they don't... What I mean is this: they are essentially a bleeder screw with a check valve in them. They have a special sealant on the threads. You 1) tighten them down; 2) loosen them 1/4 to 1/2 turn; 3) pump brakes and as you do, the check valve works by letting air out by opening when you push down but then closes when you let off to keep air from getting in; 4) tighten back up. I have had at least one brand new one from the company leak on my Ford when it was tightened down. Actually, I think it may have been two total that were defective. The company is great and will send you another one out but this leads me to question their quality control.

Back to my Yota, the front calipers already had them in there when I did my front brakes two years ago. They are fine. When I was bleeding the brakes today, the rear drum wheel cylinders have the speedbleeders installed and one of them was leaking when it was tightened down. Man I got pissed. I am calling the company tomorrow and not only asking for another replacement, but I will inquire about their quality control. As a matter of fact maybe I will research this online and see if any one else has had the same problems as me.

All in all, a great product when it works but you shouldn't have something not work after you paid seven bucks for it (especially a seven dollar bleeder screw). If you have anymore questions, let me know.