dmiller_time

I have an 04 tacoma with a urd supercharger. I bought the truck about a month ago and the guy I bought it from said everything was done to it that needed to be done to accomadate the sc. I didnt know a whole lot about the truck except it ran great and he was askin a good price for it. I done my research on the sc and what needed to be done.

The truck was about 4hrs from my home so when I test drove the truck the guy meet us half way so, I wasnt able to check it from cold to normal operating tepatures. The truck runs great and hauls ass. There is no check engine. when I crank the truck in the mornings to let it warm the motor sounds normal. After its warmed up and I go to leave it makes the pinging sound from about 800 to 1000 rpms but it olny does it when I pull out the drive way. The next time I stop and go to take off it is normal. I talked to my race mechanin that use to build my quad motors for me and he told me that the timing needed to be retarded a lil bit. So I bought 5gal of unleaded 109 octane gas and it didnt do it the next two mornings until I put 93 back in it and its at it again. I cant tell there is any hg/lr ping or high rpm lean out other than at about 2500-3000 rpms it sounds like it might be doing it a lil then it quits from 3k to 4k and starts whinning again till redline. I think I might be freaking out over the sound of the sc. Im just real peculer about my stuff and want to make sure it right. So im thinking of getting the split second FTC1 and playing with it a lil bit to see what it does. Any input on this or maybe a differant rout that might be better to take???

Sorry for the long write up just want to make sure I give you all the info posible. By the way, I have called all the toyaot dealerships within 100 miles of here and noone has ever really delt with a sc 5vz. Plus im not to fond of letting a stranger work on my gummy bears. Thanks for any input guys!!

cpizzle42

In the middle of building my own S/C setup on a fresh motor so I am still learing myself, but....

Does this truck have a FTC box already? Check the glove box, behind the gauge cluster, or remove the glove box and see if the ECU wires have been spliced into?

Your having lean out due to lack of fuel and/or timing. I would call that guy and ask him if he did a larger pump and 30lbs (or bigger) injectors.

You need to get a wideband air/fuel ratio gauge so you can get this thing running right.

dmiller_time

The guy I bought it from told me thateverything was doen but he couldnt show me with recpits that it was so I done my research and he came off 1500 for the 7th injector, witch dosent even really help low rpm high gear ping cause it doesnt come into efect till 50% throtle. But he came off of it anyways and another 1000 for the valve body. I got the truck for 14k with 69k miles on it and in perfect condition. Ill check thisafter noon to see if it already has one or what. Got tomorow off so its liable to be then.

dmiller_time

The guy told me that the sc came factory on the truck, if that helps out any. And how would I tell if it had bigger injectors in it or not. It does have denso plugs and coil packs on it. Not sure if thats just what comes factory on them or was put on there for the sc. Prolly cahnge the plugs out soon to a cooler plug.

Texas_Ace

I doubt that it has the 7th injector in that case.

To fix it you have a few options. First off do a complete tune up, you would b amazed how much this can fix. Plugs, air filter, fuel filter, oil change (after the seafoam i am getting to in a min), clean the maf, plug wires ect.

Also remove the elbow on the intake box that goes into the fender, some free power there.

After all that I would then either get a motorvac treatment done or a few cans of seafoam. The motorvac is better but costs more. These will clean the motor out and should remove any carbon buildup thus lowering your compression and making you less knock prone. Will just plain run better as well.

After that it should get better but you most likely will still have problems till you fix the fueling issue. I personally LOVE a good meth injection kit over the 7th injector but either will work.

Pick one and install it and your problems should be over. The meth kit will give you more power as well and be safer.

Got some videos of my setup here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jr13OB2P65c

More on my channel here: http://www.youtube.com/user/TexasAce.../3/lLnFf0_H8bI

dmiller_time

I knew when I bought the truck that it didnt have the 7th injector. How would I know if it had bigger injectors though. What would I look for if I took one out or do I need to even take them out. I already replaced the plugs packs wires and air filter. Ill get to the fule filter tomorow. The plugs were high speed glazed when I changed them and with new ones in it didnt really seem to help. By the way nice rig you got there TEXAS ACE!! And Like I said befor it seems to quit whining from about 3k-4k rpms then starts back but never seems to loose power. Maybe even feels like its a lil more vibration in that range than normal.

Texas_Ace

Well to see if you have larger injectors you can just look for the piggy back box needed to run them. Take a look at the ECU connections. If there are wires spliced in then follow them to the box. If not then it is a safe bet to say you are on the stock fuel system.

Do a motorvac or seafoam treatment on it then change the oil, see if that helps. WELL worth the money no matter what.

Lastly if you don't have any piggy backs, which i am thinking you don't. You need to pick which way to go. I obviously am biased to the meth/water injection but the 7th injector will work as well.

Even pure water will stop any knock, just won't add fuel to stop the lean out.

dmiller_time

Ok I dont see any splices anywhere so i think its safe to say its got stock fule system. I have already put 2 cans of seafoam in the 2 tanks of gas after I changed the oil. I looked into getting the motorvac done but I really dont like no one else workin on my truck especally when they told me I couldnt stand outside the bay door and watch.

How exactly does that meth injecton work. is there a diff tank for the methanol or what. Im fixin to research it so .... You dont think if I retarded the timming a bit it would help???

dmiller_time

also what type of meth kit r you runiing

Texas_Ace

Well if you don't want the motorvac done (it is better then seafoam) then run the seafoam through the intake, it is not as effective but it will works. I usually do it 1/3 a can at a time, let it sit for half an hour before restarting and then waiting till the smoke stops to do the next round.

For the meth injection questions this video should answer most of your questions. It is of my old kit but the new kit still works int he same basic way, just FAR better electronics. Meth injection will also clean out and keep your motor clean over time.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYBOlsLTZQ8

Retarding the timing would help but for the cost of a piggy back to do that you could get a meth injection kit that would give you more power as well. The piggy back won't add any power by itself.

Texas_Ace

I used to run an AEM kit, NOT recomended.

I now run a coolingmist setup that is FAR better. Fully tunable as well. I detail it in my last build thread.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/t...-power-222044/

The video above is the same basic setup just with the AEM electronics vs the coolingmist.

dmiller_time

about how much methanol do you use to a tank of gas. This truck is an everyday driver so I dont raise to much cane in it, maybe the ocasionl mustang that wants to try me cause there is a supercharged deacl on the side of it so ppl try to race me all the time seems like.

Realy prechate the help man I got a ton of questions and you seem to be the first that can really answer them for me in the past month.

Texas_Ace

Generally i have to fill up the washer fluid tank about every tank of gas. But it depends a lot on how I am driving. I beat the heck out of my cars driving like i stole them as a rule so i go through a bit more then most people.

I loaned the truck to my parents awhile back and they hardly used any meth.

So as a rule i use about 1 gallon per tank of gas give or take some, it also washes my windshield so some is used there as well.

I also showed in that other thread that pure water is a perfectly fine substitute for meth to get you home. Won't make as much power but it is still safe.

If you have anymore questions feel free to ask.

dmiller_time

Well I think im gonna go with the coolingmist product. Do you think I need any type of a/f controler or can I pretty much do it all with the controler that come with the collingmist. And, witch one to get. I see ther is a few that they offer. I dont like to half jack stuff so I dont mind spending the money but, I got a baby on the way so im just trying to get this thing running like it should and get the most life out of it.

Texas_Ace

You will need a wideband to tune the truck properly and to keep an eye on things it is a real good idea with a supercharger anyways.

The coolingmist is a good kit, i do not like the new "x" kit though. I prefer the older style kit like i have. You could just get the basic CMGS kit.

It will be an easier install and easier to tune at the cost of being able to get the tune perfect (will go slightly leaner on the top end which is not necessarily a bad thing when you have the meth spraying).

Or you could get a copy of my kit with the smart controller as well which allows you to tune things to about the same level at a 7th injector kit.

Either setup will run you ~$500 - $600 and will work perfectly fine.

dmiller_time

k, so the cmgs kit with the wideband a/f gauge should get me where i want to be??? Im prety good with mechanics and a lil wiring. About how long for instalation you reckon??

dmiller_time

I really prechate the help man. Im sure Ill have question when I go to instal it

Texas_Ace

Yep, that will work just fine. Here is the basic kit i would get if you never see yourself wanting to be able to tune it later. For an extra $75 you can get the smart controller buy buying things a little different.

http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmai...pid=cmgsstage2

I would get the 7gph nozzle if you plan to stick with the stock pulley or a 2.2" pulley tops. if you want to go with a smaller pulley at some point the 10gph is a safer bet.

Install should not take more then an afternoon if you have an ok idea of what you are doing. Hardest part is figuring out where you want to put everything and where to rought the wires.

No problem, if you have any questions i am glad to help.

1 thing to note before doing this is meth injection works a lot better if you can get pure methanol and mix it with water yourself. Gives you a lot more wiggle room. Most big city's will have it and it is usually only a few bucks a gallon. Check the chemical supply places and the race shops. If you have any circle tracks around then there is most likely methanol somewhere to be had.

If you can't find pure meth then you will be looking for -20 or better rated blue washerfluid. This will still work fine but just not as much wiggle room as mixing it yourself if you want the perfect tune out of it.

dmiller_time

I can get pure meth from my race shop so thats not gonna be a problem.

Im not seeing anywhere on coolingmist site where it give me the option for a smart controler. And I should go with the stage 2 setup and stil need a wideband af gauge. I see that there is a guage in the stage 2 kit but its just monitoring the water/meth right?

Texas_Ace

Great, if you can get the meth then you have a lot of adjustment room when tuning.

So you want to go with the smart controller setup? You need to buy some different kits if you want that. You end up with the same stuff just in a different way.

Here is what i got to build my setup:

Buy this smart controller kit:

http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmain.aspx?pid=1005 Be sure to select the free trunk mount kit, it's free!

Select single stage and pick the 500-700hp nozzle, in the notes section note that you want the CM7 7gph nozzle as i am not totally sure what nozzle comes with what HP rating.

Then buy this CMGS separate: http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmain.aspx?pid=cmgs

You can get the flow sensor upgrade if you want but it is mainly for the failsafe. Hooking the failsafe up to our superchargers would require some extra parts and DIY setup. A good setup but a little overkill for a stock or 2.2" pulley since even with nothing else the stock ECU will protect the engine short term.

Once you have both of those you will connect them together so that you can use the smart controller to control the injection of the CMGS. This is really only for the perfections though.

The normal CMGS kit will work perfectly fine, i drove my truck with just the normal kit and no smart controller for a good 6+ months without a complaint running a 2.0" pulley. It works perfectly fine and is much simpler and stupid proof.

The only thing the smart controller does for me over the normal setup is add a little more meth on the top end but it is really not needed from a safety standpoint. Just from a perfection standpoint lol.