I'll hook up my scanner and check that. I did try using the 7th injector to richen it closer to 12.5, but didn't have any success so I'd think it has to be in closed loop. Will check and get back to you.

 

That would be helpful, thanks.

 

Not to hijack but I can be pm'd with an answer. What are real number mpg's with SC and fuel mods for a built or heavier 4runner (slider, winch and bumper, 33" or larger) with 4.56's.

Thank you

Aaron

 

Don't pm him, post it, i know i want to hear this as well.

 

Well, I checked gas mileage before and after on my standard built 4x4 4Runner. My best MPG before SC on 93 octane fuel was 21 MPG. After was 19 MPG if memory serves. So that's about a 10% drop in mileage after the SC and fuel mods. Should scale I would think.

 

Hmm? Well I get btwn 17-19 now. So it could go down and if thats the case the SC would just add more power but no real economy (fuel wise). Well dang !


Aaron

 

Then count on 15 - 17 MPG after the SC if you keep your foot out of it.

 

Well I'm just sad, I think maybe some crying is in order. I was hoping for 19-20 with sc ...... oh well I'll just drive her like she is and be happy with that. Thanks Speedy for the answers and great writeups.


Aaron

 

No problem. Sometimes you gotta weigh what the vehicle is mainly used for. If you're off roading 50% of the time, then I'd say the larger heavy tires and bumpers are worth it. If you spend only 10% of your time off road, then why have all that gear as it just gets wear and tear on the highway and kills your mileage. I had a 1997 Tacoma that was done up for off roading with a 6" lift, 33x12.50s, lockers, etc. However, I found that I didn't off road as much as I thought I would, so that truck was sold for another TRD Tacoma that I kept mostly stock.

I will say this supercharger has been one of the best modifications I've ever made to a vehicle and VERY fun to drive every day.

 

Hey speedy, I also PM'd you about this, but I'll post here too in case anyone else on the board knows the answer to my Q's.

I got the 7th kit from URD and got the ARF add on, but can't figure out how the AFR signal is configured. As far as I can tell there are just 2 maps. One for AIC and one for timing. I don't see how the AFR calibrator is a calibrator???

What is the E2 signal and what is the AFR1+ signal? Maybe that would help me understand how it is working. It doesn't seem like the AFR signal is being modified by the AIC\timing box with AFR calibrator?

I must be missing something here. Please help.

And just to clarify, the kit is for an 02 tacoma and I assume the AFR calibrator is integrated with the AIC\timing controller since my box has a pink\blue wire and green\white (unused) wire mentioned in the AFR calibrator wiring document. Unfortunately, the URD documents don't go into detail of the inner workings of the AFR and or the software to configure it.

 

Yes the AFR calibrator is integrated. In the integrated kit you can't program it, it's pre-programmed from URD to the best average closed loop AFR adjustment.

To be able to program it you have to buy the units separately. Programming the AFR Calibrator can be a little hairy as there is a very small margin of programming that can be done without throwing a CEL.

This is also covered on my site in more detail.

 

Ok, any idea how it works since it is just a tap connection? No signals are inline for the AFR hookup. I don't see how the AFR signal is being modified. I'm worried I've got a 165$ pink wire.

 

It doesn't replace the signal, it conditions it. Gadget at URD can give a better explanation, but from my understanding lets say the 02 sensor sends back a 4V signal to the ECU, this AFR Calibrator takes that and trims some of the voltage making the resulting signal to the ECU 3V, thus the ECU richens the mixture.

I can tell you without a doubt mine has worked flawlessly since day 1.

 

Don't worry. That little wire will do what it is supposed to do.

Gadget

 

excellent, the voice of authority.

Gadget, can you explain in a little more detail on which wires are doing what? How is the signal conditioned if it is just tapped on and not in line with the AFR signal? What are the E2 and AFR1+ signals? I would think you would need to put something inline with the AFR1+ signal to condition it. Please school me.

 

E2 is a ground source for the Performance Calibration Unit.

AFR1+ is the signal wire from the air/fuel ratio sensor in the exhaust.

The signal from the AFR Sensor is calibrated by the control wire from the Calibrator. This is what allows us to alter fuel mixture in closed loop mode.

Gadget

 

so basically the stock ECU sees the original AFR1+ signal, not a conditioned version. Is this correct? You can fatten the mix in closed loop using the AIC but it will be fighting the stock ECU, I still don't see how the AFR is alleviating this problem. Can you go into more detail on the "control wire from the calibrator" and how the AFR callibrator is actually tricking the ECU in closed loop?

Is the AFR1+ a current or voltage source? Is the callibration wire (pink\blue) a current divider?

 

no comments? What I would like to know is if the tap connection is actually able to condition the signal. I guess it would if the AFR1+ signal is a current source.

Sorry to pry Gadget, some of us just can't take "Don't worry. That little wire will do what it is supposed to do" for an answer.

Just curious how it is working.

 

If you want this much information, I'd suggest calling URD Tech Support or e-mail them. Gadget is one of their tech guys and I'm sure he stay too swamped to answer all the questions posed on various msg boards. URD Tech Support always answered my e-mails within 24 hours.

 

I hear ya speedy, both you and brian from URD have helped me a bunch. My truck has stopped the high gear low rpm ping just using the stock timing and AIC + AFR maps. AND I AM SEEING 13.8ish in closed loop. I just want to understand how its working. I had already sent and email to URD without a response thats why I came on the board. I haven't seen any real explaination of how the AFR calibrator works on any of the boards. Hopefully Gadget will show up again and let us know. I will assume that the AFR cal wire is draining some of the current that the stock ECU sees therefore tricking it. If not, I would love to know how it achievs its task. I was a little bummed to find out that it has a hardcoded map unless you get the seperate box. Their website should b explicit about this. When you read the description on the AFR, it tells you that you can dial in whatever AFR you want in closed loop boost. What they don't tell you is that when you upgrade your 7th kit that the AFR that comes integrated with it is not tunable. That blows.

RANT OVER>..