!!Speedy's Supercharger Thread!!
06-02-2007, 06:05 PM
#341
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Yea the smt7 is good for that 
You cant read means it will target the afr you select but you cant read what afr you are at....I personally think they did this because they want you to buy the wideband kit as well
Annoying...but if you have a bi-polar cam trigger you cant run the smt7 
i think 00+ have them...
You cant read means it will target the afr you select but you cant read what afr you are at....I personally think they did this because they want you to buy the wideband kit as well
Annoying...but if you have a bi-polar cam trigger you cant run the smt7 i think 00+ have them...However, the LC-1 with digital gauge will still show me what AFR I'm at.
Last edited by Speedy; 06-02-2007 at 06:06 PM.
06-02-2007, 06:19 PM
#342
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Right on about the spark plug gap finding! I started to give up hope on my rig as the summer temps and weak gas (91 octane) just wreak havoc on my engine. I've been doing some tweaks here and there to alleviate the problem (Coolant Bypass Mod is awesome BTW!) and now this comes along. Sweet! Exactly what I needed. I already did this "mod" and I will report back when I get some drive time in. I don't think the conditions get any harsher than this dreaded place, so this should be a great test. My previous gap was about .044 and I went to .030-.032.
If you guys haven't done the CBM yet, do it. It works too!
If you guys haven't done the CBM yet, do it. It works too!
06-02-2007, 07:28 PM
#343
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Christian! DOOD!
I got back and forth about the CBM... I've run it, but I'm thinking that given the weather around here, it's not doing a lot. I'm up for being wrong though - what you think?
I got back and forth about the CBM... I've run it, but I'm thinking that given the weather around here, it's not doing a lot. I'm up for being wrong though - what you think?
06-02-2007, 07:54 PM
#344
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I have the LM1 to see where i am.from 96-00 the ecu didnt really care how off the crank and cam signals were as far as sync goes..later ecus did care and you needed to modify cam and crank signals at the same time and our cam and crank signals are what is called "bi-polar" which is not implemented into the smt units
I want to verify all this still but i only have a 96....
Mark,
I pm'd you because your email isnt working
06-02-2007, 08:26 PM
#345
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I hear ya about the temps up there - way better than down here. I don't have any data for you on the CBM, but what I can say is that I've stood on a tile floor that had water heating tubes under it and man that floor sure permeated a lot of heat into the tiles/room! I can only surmise that a similar phenom is occuring at the TB. It would be pretty easy to go with a custom stout valve set-up for the CBM so folks could switch back and forth if they wished. That would be cool. Then someone could get some IAT test data.
I also tried to get some phenolic spacers going, but there wasn't enough interest for the guy to move forward (I started an interest thread as you may know).
Did you catch my scooped hood thread? I did get data for that mod (making it functional). I found (using an Oregon Scientific Temp Probe) that temps dropped dramatically at idle at the top of the SC'r. Can you believe that? I mean heat pours out of that opening once the vehicle is stopped! This leads me to believe that our rigs would benefit greatly from a cowl-type hood...
If this plug-gap trick works I am going to owe you like 50 cups of coffee when I come up there some time - do you take Tully's gift cards by any chance?
Last edited by rimpainter.com; 06-02-2007 at 08:28 PM.
06-02-2007, 10:51 PM
#346
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I have yet to try out that CBM mod...i didnt really want to just because of the fact that gets chilly here in the winter. Dont know if it gets COLD enough to really have any effect at all. Then again its not hard to plug it all back in
Christian,
I always wanted to get the 4runner hood scoop on my Tacoma and make it functional, any heat out of the engine bay is less stress on the cooling system, engine and other parts that are in there! I have looked around and apparently we taco guys cant put the hood on...
Christian,
I always wanted to get the 4runner hood scoop on my Tacoma and make it functional, any heat out of the engine bay is less stress on the cooling system, engine and other parts that are in there! I have looked around and apparently we taco guys cant put the hood on...
06-02-2007, 11:07 PM
#347
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Christian,
I always wanted to get the 4runner hood scoop on my Tacoma and make it functional, any heat out of the engine bay is less stress on the cooling system, engine and other parts that are in there! I have looked around and apparently we taco guys cant put the hood on...
I always wanted to get the 4runner hood scoop on my Tacoma and make it functional, any heat out of the engine bay is less stress on the cooling system, engine and other parts that are in there! I have looked around and apparently we taco guys cant put the hood on...
But you could go with some kind of custom set-up for a hood. I'm telling you, the heat releasing out of the vent was hot enough to burn my hand. At idle, ambient temps without the scoop were hitting 180 degrees under there (in the hot AZ sun). With the new hood on, it wouldn't break the low 160's. Good stuff!
06-03-2007, 07:11 AM
#348
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Yeup, I saw that... I've gotten tied up with a bunch of work and life stuff and had to ignore it for now. Thanks Johnny!
Good example! Hmm, sounds like I'll be doing bypass surgery this morning.
Nope, I didn't see it - see note above about work and life. I've even barely been around here, short of responding to admin/mod stuff.
NICE! Yeah, I don't have any numbers data, but when I put the scoop on mine, the difference in under-hood temps was instant and very dramatic in terms of being able to get anywhere near the SC after even 10 minutes of run time.
heh. Don't thank me, Gregg and I are just passing along data that we got from a guy named "Tim". Though, from what other folks said in here, it looks like this number's game has been known about for a while, even documented by TRD. Dunno what Mr. URD has been thinking all these years.
Thanks Man!
Thanks Johnny!
I also tried to get some phenolic spacers going, but there wasn't enough interest for the guy to move forward (I started an interest thread as you may know).
I've even barely been around here, short of responding to admin/mod stuff.
Did you catch my scooped hood thread? I did get data for that mod (making it functional). I found (using an Oregon Scientific Temp Probe) that temps dropped dramatically at idle at the top of the SC'r. Can you believe that? I mean heat pours out of that opening once the vehicle is stopped! This leads me to believe that our rigs would benefit greatly from a cowl-type hood...
If this plug-gap trick works I am going to owe you like 50 cups of coffee when I come up there some time - do you take Tully's gift cards by any chance?
Thanks Man!
06-03-2007, 08:43 AM
#349
Contributing Member
Been googling spark plug gapping some and ran into this:http://www.centuryperformance.com/spark.asp
Here's a quote of interest:
Also I'm wondering if it wouldn't be a good idea to check the grounding on the igniter, I believe the igniter is grounded through the inter-fender sheet metal it's bolted to. I know in my case when I placed it into my engine bay I sanded the sheet metal down to bare metal for the contact area. I'm running the .043 gap that URD recommended and haven't experienced any misfires like some of you decribe.
Here's a quote of interest:
Proper Plug Gapping:
Proper gapping of the spark plug is necessary to get maximum spark energy, lowest RFI release as well as what is best for the longevity of the secondary ignition components (coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs).
When checking plug gaps, the correct way is to use ONLY wire gauges, though many of us are using the slider style gapping tools. These flat or feeler gauge style gauges do not accurately measure true width of spark plug gap.
When increasing the gap size for our high performance applications utilizing advanced ignition systems such as Mallory, Accel, Jacobs, Crane and Holley ... it is important never to go more than plus or minus .008". This is to maintain parallel surfaces between ground and the center electrodes.
Something many do not know, is that with Higher Compression ratios and Superchargers as well as Nitrous, in many cases smaller spark plug gaps must be used as well as the use of a much hotter ignition system (see above). These higher cylinder pressures require more energy to jump the spark plug gap.
The rule of thumb on plug gaps is to open them up in .002" increments at a time. When the car (race vehicle) begins to lose power or slow down then go back .001-.002" and this in most cases is the optimum gap.
Remembering that the Ignition Unit, plug brand as well as heat range, cap and/or rotor styles and in many cases fuel type or brand will change the optimum spark plug gap settings.
Lastly, NEVER use the porcelain insulator as a fulcrum point when setting these gaps, this can cause damage to the spark plug.
Proper gapping of the spark plug is necessary to get maximum spark energy, lowest RFI release as well as what is best for the longevity of the secondary ignition components (coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs).
When checking plug gaps, the correct way is to use ONLY wire gauges, though many of us are using the slider style gapping tools. These flat or feeler gauge style gauges do not accurately measure true width of spark plug gap.
When increasing the gap size for our high performance applications utilizing advanced ignition systems such as Mallory, Accel, Jacobs, Crane and Holley ... it is important never to go more than plus or minus .008". This is to maintain parallel surfaces between ground and the center electrodes.
Something many do not know, is that with Higher Compression ratios and Superchargers as well as Nitrous, in many cases smaller spark plug gaps must be used as well as the use of a much hotter ignition system (see above). These higher cylinder pressures require more energy to jump the spark plug gap.
The rule of thumb on plug gaps is to open them up in .002" increments at a time. When the car (race vehicle) begins to lose power or slow down then go back .001-.002" and this in most cases is the optimum gap.
Remembering that the Ignition Unit, plug brand as well as heat range, cap and/or rotor styles and in many cases fuel type or brand will change the optimum spark plug gap settings.
Lastly, NEVER use the porcelain insulator as a fulcrum point when setting these gaps, this can cause damage to the spark plug.
06-03-2007, 08:46 AM
#350
Registered User
Been googling spark plug gapping some and ran into this:http://www.centuryperformance.com/spark.asp
I'm running the .043 gap that URD recommended and haven't experienced any misfires like some of you describe.
06-03-2007, 08:52 AM
#351
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06-03-2007, 02:41 PM
#352
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Thread Starter
Quick Update:
I finished my DIN gauge bezel and angle rings today. The angle rings fit 52mm gauges perfectly and angle them 10* toward the driver, and clear the stock dash surround area by just a hair as well to avoid any rattling. I'm waiting on Autometer to send my boost and tranny temp gauges back to me with the green LED boards and I'll get it all installed.
The DIN mount is some stereo dash panel, and the angle rings are metal tubing pieces, cut to the proper angle and height, sanded, primed, and painted.
I finished my DIN gauge bezel and angle rings today. The angle rings fit 52mm gauges perfectly and angle them 10* toward the driver, and clear the stock dash surround area by just a hair as well to avoid any rattling. I'm waiting on Autometer to send my boost and tranny temp gauges back to me with the green LED boards and I'll get it all installed.
The DIN mount is some stereo dash panel, and the angle rings are metal tubing pieces, cut to the proper angle and height, sanded, primed, and painted.
06-03-2007, 06:14 PM
#353
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wow man those are sweet! I wish i had something like that for my setup.
I am actually planning something else which will fit in place of the stock clock....more on that later
I am actually planning something else which will fit in place of the stock clock
....more on that later
06-03-2007, 06:30 PM
#354
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Thread Starter
All I have left to do is fab up the gauge brackets and this part of the project is done.
06-04-2007, 05:33 AM
#355
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Just an update on how things are going with the fuel mods...
HORRIBLE. After all was installed and Blink helped me with an initial tune all was good. Ran good for a week. Went back to Blink's to fine tune it. Then everything went haywire. The AFR's were very inconsistant. And it was pinging worse than what came with the ftc as a stock tune. Im at a very dissapointment because ive dumped quite a bit of cash on this for it not to work correct. Ohh when the LM-1 was turned on and was warming up is said it only had like 9.5 - 10 volts to it.
There are 3 things Blink and I came up with that could be the problem.
A: Right off the bat. FTC1-E is bad.
B: Battery not holding enough charge.
C: Alternator may have a diode out.
Well after I left his house Saturday night. I kept the truck mostly about 10 vacume. Took the freeway home. After i got off the freeway I put it back into boost (2 psi), which is where i got it to ping the most when it went haywire on us, And it worked as it should. The next light came up, tried it again. Worked fine again. Thinking about this now, maybe the batter is bad or the alternator is bad. Went to Autozone Sunday, they both checked out fine :headscratch:. And everything was working properly once again on sunday. The LM-1 when turned on and warming up showed anywhere from 11 volts to 12.5
So this morning i head to work and put it into 2psi again and watch my lm-1. It keeps show anywhere from 14.0 - 15.4 afr in all boost ranges and rpm's..... Check the LM-1 again and its back down to 9.5-10.0 volts. The problem came back, its just not pinging..... what the hell is wrong with my $#^!. Im pretty close to just yanking everything off now and selling it all. Im not a happy camper for the money i spent into this kit.
What do you guys think?
And speedy nice bezel you got there for your gauges.
HORRIBLE. After all was installed and Blink helped me with an initial tune all was good. Ran good for a week. Went back to Blink's to fine tune it. Then everything went haywire. The AFR's were very inconsistant. And it was pinging worse than what came with the ftc as a stock tune. Im at a very dissapointment because ive dumped quite a bit of cash on this for it not to work correct. Ohh when the LM-1 was turned on and was warming up is said it only had like 9.5 - 10 volts to it.
There are 3 things Blink and I came up with that could be the problem.
A: Right off the bat. FTC1-E is bad.
B: Battery not holding enough charge.
C: Alternator may have a diode out.
Well after I left his house Saturday night. I kept the truck mostly about 10 vacume. Took the freeway home. After i got off the freeway I put it back into boost (2 psi), which is where i got it to ping the most when it went haywire on us, And it worked as it should. The next light came up, tried it again. Worked fine again. Thinking about this now, maybe the batter is bad or the alternator is bad. Went to Autozone Sunday, they both checked out fine :headscratch:. And everything was working properly once again on sunday. The LM-1 when turned on and warming up showed anywhere from 11 volts to 12.5
So this morning i head to work and put it into 2psi again and watch my lm-1. It keeps show anywhere from 14.0 - 15.4 afr in all boost ranges and rpm's..... Check the LM-1 again and its back down to 9.5-10.0 volts. The problem came back, its just not pinging..... what the hell is wrong with my $#^!. Im pretty close to just yanking everything off now and selling it all. Im not a happy camper for the money i spent into this kit.
What do you guys think?
And speedy nice bezel you got there for your gauges.
06-04-2007, 06:29 AM
#356
Registered User
Are you having any troubles with it leaning out and stalling when you stop after being in boost a while? Also, when you are in boost, will it stay lean (like you mentioned 14-15's) then get really rich all of a sudden (9's-10's)? When you are in Vacuum after being in boost for awhile, will just tapping the throttle a little bit (but still keeping it in vacuum) cause the afr's to dive down and get really rich (9's-10's)?
06-04-2007, 06:43 AM
#357
Registered User
Wow Steve... welcome to the frustration side of the game.
Kudos to keeping an eye on the battery voltages, it's an interesting side that a lot of people miss.
Any black box in our rigs is designed to be running on 12-12.5v, if you're seeing things like 10v, then you're talking a 20% drop in voltage. That's a LOT, and it could easily cause a regulator in the black box to just go nuts tossing all sorts of noise into the circuit.
The "quickest" way I could see to test the theory is to rig the black box into a totally separate power supply. Maybe pull a battery from another car? Hook it up to the FTC1, tie the negative from the spare battery to the ground of the rig, and see if it makes a difference. Maybe run the LM-1 from it as well as a reference point...
Kudos to keeping an eye on the battery voltages, it's an interesting side that a lot of people miss.
Any black box in our rigs is designed to be running on 12-12.5v, if you're seeing things like 10v, then you're talking a 20% drop in voltage. That's a LOT, and it could easily cause a regulator in the black box to just go nuts tossing all sorts of noise into the circuit.
The "quickest" way I could see to test the theory is to rig the black box into a totally separate power supply. Maybe pull a battery from another car? Hook it up to the FTC1, tie the negative from the spare battery to the ground of the rig, and see if it makes a difference. Maybe run the LM-1 from it as well as a reference point...
06-04-2007, 06:44 AM
#358
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Didnt see it drop past 14 afr when it was wiggin out. it was always 14 to even 16 tops, i even reset the pulled the battery cable just to be on the safe side. Ohh forgot to mention. I got a code P0100 after updating a map turning off the ignition like is says for a few seconds then begin with starting the truck. This happened 2 times. Which is why we were thinking it was the ftc.
but if its not getting the proper power to it, it will also wig out and throw a code correct?
but if its not getting the proper power to it, it will also wig out and throw a code correct?
06-04-2007, 06:55 AM
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Wow Steve... welcome to the frustration side of the game.
Kudos to keeping an eye on the battery voltages, it's an interesting side that a lot of people miss.
Any black box in our rigs is designed to be running on 12-12.5v, if you're seeing things like 10v, then you're talking a 20% drop in voltage. That's a LOT, and it could easily cause a regulator in the black box to just go nuts tossing all sorts of noise into the circuit.
The "quickest" way I could see to test the theory is to rig the black box into a totally separate power supply. Maybe pull a battery from another car? Hook it up to the FTC1, tie the negative from the spare battery to the ground of the rig, and see if it makes a difference. Maybe run the LM-1 from it as well as a reference point...
Kudos to keeping an eye on the battery voltages, it's an interesting side that a lot of people miss.
Any black box in our rigs is designed to be running on 12-12.5v, if you're seeing things like 10v, then you're talking a 20% drop in voltage. That's a LOT, and it could easily cause a regulator in the black box to just go nuts tossing all sorts of noise into the circuit.
The "quickest" way I could see to test the theory is to rig the black box into a totally separate power supply. Maybe pull a battery from another car? Hook it up to the FTC1, tie the negative from the spare battery to the ground of the rig, and see if it makes a difference. Maybe run the LM-1 from it as well as a reference point...
But im just going to get an optima because i have been meaning to do so anyways since i purchased the truck. I will aslo change out my old cable with some 4 gauge wiring since the old stuff has some corrosion on it.
I just went test the voltage again when the truck was off with the lm-1, the screen just kept flickering with an error and low voltage. Which when i first connected the lm-1 to it i had calibrated it with the engine off and just the ingnition on to give the cigarette lighter power. and worked fine from that until saturday. Started flickering on me when everything went haywire. But on sunday i was able to turn it on and check the voltage and get just a normal air afr w/o the engine running.
This morning it went back to flickering when the engine was off. aswell as when i just tested it not 10 minutes ago. Started up the truck turned the lm-1 on again and it read 11.7- 12.5 volts. after letting it run for a min or 2 i shut it off again, shut the engine down. waited a minute then turn the lm-1 on again w/ the engine off. read 11.3-11.9 volts..... So im completely puzzled now on whats going on.
Well see what happens when i cange out the battery and cables.
06-04-2007, 07:00 AM
#360
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Thread Starter
Yeah, the kid that i work with is a yota fanatic aswell and loves my runner and what im doing to it. He even offered to loan his optima to me.
But im just going to get an optima because i have been meaning to do so anyways since i purchased the truck. I will aslo change out my old cable with some 4 gauge wiring since the old stuff has some corrosion on it.
I just went test the voltage again when the truck was off with the lm-1, the screen just kept flickering with an error and low voltage. Which when i first connected the lm-1 to it i had calibrated it with the engine off and just the ingnition on to give the cigarette lighter power. and worked fine from that until saturday. Started flickering on me when everything went haywire. But on sunday i was able to turn it on and check the voltage and get just a normal air afr w/o the engine running.
This morning it went back to flickering when the engine was off. aswell as when i just tested it not 10 minutes ago. Started up the truck turned the lm-1 on again and it read 11.7- 12.5 volts. after letting it run for a min or 2 i shut it off again, shut the engine down. waited a minute then turn the lm-1 on again w/ the engine off. read 11.3-11.9 volts..... So im completely puzzled now on whats going on.
Well see what happens when i cange out the battery and cables.
But im just going to get an optima because i have been meaning to do so anyways since i purchased the truck. I will aslo change out my old cable with some 4 gauge wiring since the old stuff has some corrosion on it.
I just went test the voltage again when the truck was off with the lm-1, the screen just kept flickering with an error and low voltage. Which when i first connected the lm-1 to it i had calibrated it with the engine off and just the ingnition on to give the cigarette lighter power. and worked fine from that until saturday. Started flickering on me when everything went haywire. But on sunday i was able to turn it on and check the voltage and get just a normal air afr w/o the engine running.
This morning it went back to flickering when the engine was off. aswell as when i just tested it not 10 minutes ago. Started up the truck turned the lm-1 on again and it read 11.7- 12.5 volts. after letting it run for a min or 2 i shut it off again, shut the engine down. waited a minute then turn the lm-1 on again w/ the engine off. read 11.3-11.9 volts..... So im completely puzzled now on whats going on.
Well see what happens when i cange out the battery and cables.
