I need to repair a pin hole leak on my radiator (still) and I was going to use JB weld, but I think saudering would be stronger. I planned on using some plumbing sauder with a torch (one of those kits you can get for like $20 with the bottle of gas. Is there anything I need to know about doing this? From what I understand, clean the surface/score it slightly, heat the parts with the edge of the flame, put flux on there and if it kind of boils, its ready for sauder, apply the sauder and allow it to bead around the seam, allow it to cool sufficiently before it gets moved/stressed in any kind of way. Anything else? Or should I just go the JB weld route? Quicksteel didn't work, it got hot and lost its hardness. I was able to break it off with my hands/fingernails.

 

I would get some solder with flux in it. Don't put too much on, you don't necessarily want to clog the fin.

 

soldering should work....

 

JB Weld Quick-Stick (or something to that effect) has held up nicely on mine. Someone sawed through part of the radiator and all the coolant drained out, so I put some of that JB Weld Quick-Stick stuff on it (a couple layers) and it has worked wonders in repairing it.

 

If you already have the radiator out - consider taking it to a radiator shop and have it done. It will only take them a minute and they usually charge very little. Unless you know what you are doing you can do more harm than good to it. That said - the metal is very thin, soldering is the way to do it, but don't overheat it and don't clog it either... Clean it thoroughly first (use fine sandpaper) and use brush-on flux, don't rely on flux core solder. Those little micro torch crack lighters are excellent for this, you can get it hot in a small area quickly. If you get it too hot it the heat can spread and depending on how close to other soldered joints you are working, more problems can develop. Also, if you get it too hot it can expand too much, and shrink on cooldown creating the same leak... and way too hot can actually melt the thin copper... etc.

 

The radiator isn't out. The leak is where the upper radiator hose hooks up. Its the spout/nipple, and its right on the passenger side. When I used a steel brush to scrape away the crud/paint, it looks like I can see the small discoloration/dimple where the leak is. I was hoping to avoid taking the radiator out, and none of the shops I have talked to here want to repair it. They all want to sell me a new $300 radiator, when all I want to do is get it working so I can sell the truck.

 

solder no prob