This is all i pulled up as far as the O2 stest screen. I guess I didnt do something right. As far as at idle, i don't have a screen shot but it did look very close to 'text book' as far as the sine wave.

 

Then I would say your idle issue is definately not linked to a bad A/F or oxygen sensor.

The next step now is you really need to do a compression check. Another thing to check is possible arcing of the coils at the boot (I've seen that but it's rare). You may also need to pull the injectors and have them sent out for professional testing and cleaning.

 

Most recent gas mileage calculation - 14 MPG. This is unacceptable. With including conversion for larger tires.

This weekend - compression test

 

Something is obviously not right to give you 14 mpg highway.
I'll be curious to see if anything turns up after you check it.

 

Did you ever resolve this?

 

Been a bit slow in getting things crossed off the list with snow to shovel and kids and and and...but...

Did the compression test and the cylinders are ok.

Hooked an injector cleaner kit (Subaru kit that I needed to get a few adapters for) directly to the fuel line. Used fuel line and fittings to loop the inlet from the fuel pump to the return for those wondering. Did not have to deal with turning fuel pump off that way. I actually got 16 mpg on the tank following that, which is an improvement but cannot tell if it is a real gain until subsequent tanks. Did not cure the problem however.

Next step is removing intake so I can do ohms test on the injectors. I am not in a situation to remove the injectors yet to send out for cleaning as my spare vehicle (1992 Dodge B250 Van) has a slightly blown head gasket.

 

Say no more, I hear you on everything you just mentioned.

You should breathe a big sigh of relief that the compression test was fine, that would have been the most expensive possibility. I'm thinking that everything is pointing towards a bad fuel injector(s) as well so I'll be curious to see how they fare when you send them out for testing. If you don't want to go through any down time, you could always pick up a set on eBay and send your originals out for cleaning only to swap them back when the originals return. It's a bit more work and cost, but if you're short on vehicles it's an option anyway.

 

I think that is what has been keeping me from shipping them out too - knowing that if I am going to be taking things apart - I should just replace and put back together. The I could swap back and make them available again for a fair price.


Anybody have recommendations on a seller / replacements so I can do the math??

Thanks Jamie!

 

Most recent gas mileage calculation yields 15 mpg.

 

in cold weather my truck gets piss poor gas mileage and its a lil more rough idle too.. are you sure its just not the nature of the beast?? plus i dunno if this may help but what about head gasket leak?? just a quick piss in the wind

 

I know nothing about what you and MTL have been talking about (hope all works out), but if I read it right I thought you said something about after balancing and rotation vibrations at hwy speeds, if so this might be it... I havn't tried it yet since no one around me has the device he's talking about, but I also have had my tires rotated and balanced every 3000 mi or so and I still have vibrations at hwy speeds even after alignment, but here is what this guy says anyways...

http://www.gadgetonline.com/Vibration.htm

Its an interesting read and makes sense to me.

 

I have read more than my share of info on vibration, that is for sure. Just about everything that is on and referenced on this site and others. Does not mean that i do not have any existing vibration from either my wheels or my driveshaft/u-joints.

At this point in time, I do have a vibration / rough idle when parked . This shows up when driving moreso after 40 or 50 miles per hour. It is not more pronounced at certain speeds like in wheel vibrations where it gets very bad between, for example, 60 and 68 mph.

At this point in time, i am fairly convinced that my injectors are causing this but still have a little way to go here. If you read through, this is defintely coupled with some subpar gas mileage.

 

Sorry for the late jump on this, but I have a set of stock injectors off of my '98 4Runner I'm trying to get rid of cheap (I upgraded with my URD kit). They are in perfect working condition, and would help you make sure you have near-zero downtime while changing them out.

PM me if you're interested, I prettty much just want them gone at this point.

 

$50 for a spare set is a smokin deal for those!!!
I'd jump on that if it were me.

 

I PMed him - No doubt! Even if i send those out to be tested and cleaned prior to installing it is a good deal $$wise.

G

 

Exactly, send those out, clean them, pull the ones on your motor and install the cleaned ones.
Then you'll have another set to sell somone else..... and the cycle continues.

 

Just had an extremely rough idle upon start up / warm up this morning. Given the 7 or 8 inches of rain in the past day or so, my assumption would be it is just because I got some water where it shouldnt be b/c of the rain.

In the bigger picture, could this be related to my initial problem. I am about to search some on coil packs here...

FYI - Injectors just got sent to the shop for service/cleaning so they will be swapped out once I get them back.

 

Nevermind - cracked clip on wire connected to coil pack enabled the wire to back off the coil pack a bit. Moisture plus lousy connection = rougher idle/ stumble.

 

i dont understand your coil packs are screwed in right? how does it make for a lousy connection??

 

Does this mean it is now running 100% again?