99runner4me

Been searching but still can't decipher who has what for rear lockers. Hopefully, I will soon be getting one for my Runner.

Please list which one do you have; where did you buy it from; price you paid for (if you can remember)?

Thanks!

-Cesar

FilthyRich

what type?
selectable??
ARB, lock right, ez-locker

99runner4me

Rear (any, if you have one)

???


Which one do you have?

FilthyRich

I have the factory e-locker, which can re be retrofitted, but I would go with an ARB if I didn't have the factory locker.
They (ARB) are more expensive than others, but being selectable gives you the best of both worlds at the flick of a switch.

Bob_98SR5

Cesar,

What are you trying to figure out here? What's type of lockers are available for 3rd gens so you can buy one yourself?

Basically you can narrow the field by this question: selectable or always on

Selectable:
ARB or Toyota e-locker

Always-on:
Detroit ez-locker, true-trac (a LSD, not a true locker), ...and now i'm having a brain fart

I highly suggest you take a look at the Locker FAQ in the Offroad Tech forum asap. There's alot of good info that will explain all the terminology, vendors, etc.

If you confirm you are looking for a locker for your 4runner, i'm going to move this into the off-road tech forum where this question will probably get better response.

Bob

arjan

I installed the elocker, bought it from a junkyard. The truck was partly prewired so it all looks factory. I wouldn't go arb personally, I like to factory way. Also the extra compressor and airlines are not worth it to me unless you're locking the front also.

marko3xl3

You do have a point about the extra lines, but if I were to do an ARB (which I plan on doing in the future), I would get an "overkill-ish" setup for ARB which translates into a "very good-ish" setup for inflating tires. Two birds with one stone.

As far as lockers, please go check out the Locker FAQ on the forum, it has some very good information, but to sum it up:

*cough cough*

For the rear, you have the following options. I will list them below with a short explanation of them all.

Lunchbox Lockers (Different Brands)
The way they work is basically they are locked when there is no resistance from a wheel (driving straight on the street, off road pavement). Once there is resistance, it unlocks (curve on pavement, u-turn, but not off-road pavement). The downside is that you cannot control it (automatic, not selectable) and it makes some noise when it operates (locking and unlocking) and also can unexpectedly lock/un-lock which can make you loose control on snow and ice (just learned that, but it's not so bad in the rear as in the front). Some examples of "lunchbox" lockers are the Detroit EZ-Locker (most popular) or Powertrex Lock-Right. Another downside is that they don't handle big tires very well as they are not the most expensive and most high quality units on the market.

Electronic Lockers (e-locker)
These are the type that came factory on some 3rd gen 4Runners and still come equipped on newer Tacomas with the correct package. This is an optional feature and can be installed after the factory by either modding your current differential shell or buying one that had an e-locker on it. The advantages of this locker are obvious, you get to choose when it's locked or not. On on-road pavement, you just keep it unlocked and have it act like an open differential while on off-road pavement you can make it act like a spool (see below). Some disadvantages do exist however. The wiring for it can be complicated to do yourself, and wiring kits are expensive. Without doing a modification (pretty simple, but it's worth mentioning) to the factory type e-locker connections, you cannot engage it 2WD or 4-Hi, you have to be in 4-low. You also cannot engage it above a certain speed, unless you mod it (not recommended, engaging at speeds can be bad for the locker, you better be at a full stop). There is write-ups for both, and I know at least one is on the forum as well (SEARCH!). Spark Notes: One of the most popular lockers because of the factory aspect and the fact that it's not automatic but selectable and also stays in the current mode of operation (on or off) in case of electrical failure to the locker (plus I believe you can manually acutate it). No one ever gets them new (wallet eater) and even used units are way more expensive than lunchbox lockers. Detroit makes some aftermarket ones of these kind as well, as well as Eaton (Toyota provider).

ARB Lockers (Air-Locking)
This type of locker is made by the company ARB and uses air instead of electricity to enagage and disegage, therefore you need a compressor and tubing to the differential to be able to use it, but as you can read at the top of this post, you can kill two birds with one stone by using the tubing and compressor to inflate your tires as well (if you get a good setup, I don't think the stock ARB compressor is good enough). Also installation of an ARB into a differential can be very expensive if you don't do it yourself and many things can go wrong if the installer, be it yourself or a 3rd party, does the installation wrong. Also as you can image, air tubing can easily get punctured of ripped in off-road environments (which causes the locker to un-lock), but the better the installation and management of the tubing and whatnot, the lesser the chance of a failure. This is one of the main reason people go for the e-locker instead of ARB, but to be honest, it's not as bad as it sounds if you do it right. Now to be advantages...it's selectable, so as with the e-locker you choose when you want it to be on or not...it's all under your control. But, the biggest advantage of the ARB locker is that it's very very dependable if installed correctly and can handle huge tires, unlike the lunchbox lockers or e-locker. As far as I know, no one else makes air lockers as it's a patented technology. This might change though.

Limited Slip Differential
With limited slip differentials, you kind of have the middle of both worlds, and per my opinion, this is the best non-selectable locker you can get in your truck, but you have to consider that it's more expensive that lunchbox lockers. The way these work is that they act like open differential at any time one wheel is not slipping. One a wheel starts slipping, a viscious fluid (or mechanical system) transferres a maximum of X% of power to the wheel that is not slipping. With this type of system you always lose some power, but it doens't give you problems in snow or ice as it is a subtle system unlike the lunchbox lockers. The disadvantages...not as cheap as lunchboxes and not as good as selectable lockers, that's about it. You can use pretty big tires with the vicious types as they don't require a mechanical connection, but the other ones...I am not so sure about. I also do not know the price difference between a vicious coupled one and a mechanical coupling. Again, Detroit makes these kinds as well.

Last but not least...

Spooling a differential (commonly referred to as a "spool")
You probably don't want this unless you use your rig as a trail only one which you tow to your destination. When you "spool" a differntial, you basically take it apart and weld the pinion gears to the axle shaft. As you can imagine, driving a spooled truck on dry pavement can potentially put a lot of strain on the drivetrain and break a lot of stuff. This is not a real "locker" but it's something people do to trail rigs, so I thought it's worth mentioning. The advantages...really butt cheap especially if you can weld yourself, but it's practically non-reversible (bad thing). Obviously, it does really good off-road becuase power is perfectly split to both wheels and they always get traction. Nothing more to say.

Disclaimer
Sorry about any mispells, grammar or wrong info. Even though I am pretty sure most of this stuff is realiable, everyone makes mistakes and I would appreciate it if you guys can point it out, because then I could fix it . Uh...I think that's it!

By the way...here is a very good page on where to read up to differentials:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm

99runner4me

Yes, I'm looking for a rear locker for my Runner.

I guess I'm more leaning towards "lunchbox" lockers such as the Lock Right, Quick Lok, Aussie Locker, etc., etc.

I'm just not quite sure what will fit a V6 3rd gen Runner.

marko3xl3

All of those companies make lunchbox lockers that fit our trucks, you just gotta find the right one.

SEAN_at_TLT

I run an ARB but instead of the ARB compressor I chose a Sun Quick Air II unit. The Sun will inflate tires and run tools. It's a little tricky modifying everything to work together but the end result is much better than the under-powered ARB compressor.

Purchased from Mike / Xtreme Off-Road
ARB rear locker: ~$600-625 (3 years ago, they have gone up since)
Sun Compressor: ~$225-250 (Also 3 years ago)

Purchased from local hdwr store
25' coiled air hose: $8.50
Quick Disco' Air Fittings: $15
Various Brass Fittings/pipe: $50
Bolts to mount compressor: $3

As you can see I spent about $1,000 total but I think it's well worth it especially since I have an on-board air setup.

Marc P

I did not see anyone mention the Detroit Soft Locker..in my opinion the best locker for the money.

It is always on, no buttons to push, air lines/wires to leak/fail at the wrong times.

It replaces the carrier just like the ARB or E-Locker so it is super strong.

Robinhood150

Wow, those baby picture avatars had me confused for a second about which person was replying to who.

dragr1

iTrader: (3)

I purchased a complete rear e-locker axle with 4.30 gears and a complete front diff with 4.30 gears from a wrecked 4Runner with about 19k miles and swapped both into my '99 for $1000. That was I think about 2.5 years ago, that stuff would probably be cheaper now.

arjan

I just bought the Elocked third which came from a bend axlehousing. The straight axle housings fetch a lot more since bodyshops have a demand for them. In rear end collisions axles apperently get bend, and they just replace the whole thing.

photoleif

marko, i think your writeup summary is excellent. thank you. one point i consistently don't see even in product literature is just how do lunchbox lockers "sense" a difference in forces to the tires, and then what makes them re-lock? i've seen a few diagrams about how they work but i must be dense and not making the connection. second point... and i think flamed and others have covered this to an extent elsewhere, is the danger in snow. if you're on a snowy off-camber road, are you basically screwed if you have a lunchbox in rear? or is it not quite so extreme, and you simply have to get used to it and be careful? (hopefully these questions don't land me in n00b jail...)

thanks

Simon

I just bought a lock-right locker for my 2001, but have yet to install it.

Roadtripr

Did you install with the bend housing?

arjan

No, my point was that if the wrecker has a third in a bend housing it is worth a lot less to them. Over here the main source of income for wrecking yards are the bodyshops.
If it is a part which is in demand by bodyshops the price gets very high. That's why for example 3.4L engines are not that much money at all.

Things like bumpers, lights, front suspension components, etc often get damaged.

Roadtripr

Get it (furhter on though, I guess one need to modify the housing on your own axel housing for the 3rd member to fit)

arjan

Yep, it's easier to get the right housing. But I found that they just charged way more with the housing over here. I guess I meant it as a heads up.
I had a shop put it in for me (I did all the wiring etc.) and they didn't even take the axle out. I guess having the right tools helps for that kind of stuff.