I just got some 35's put on last week, and I'm going to regear in a few days, and I can't figure out what gearing I should get, 4.88's or 5.29's?

I'm looking for the best of both worlds i guess, i trailer snowmobiles in the winter, so i would like good power going up the canyons, and better gas milage, but still low enough to wheel with...

thanks-

 

I have a 91 with 35s running 5.29s and an automatic trans. it still seems sluggish to me. I say go 5.29s. got pics of that bad boy?

 

I say 4.88s as they are stronger than 5.29s, more teeth.

Read this thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...light=85+tires

Just my opinion.

 

from everything ive read and asked about on here, when i go to 33's with the v6 auto, ill have to go to 5.29's from the factory 4.88's. if it was a manual, id be sittin purty!

lee

 

4.88s or 5.29s...

 

I say 4.88's. I personally feel I'm a little bit overgeared for my 33's and the type of driving I have to do daily (freeway 75+).

 

One thing to consider is the gearing not only has to compensate for the larger tires but also the added weight of them, the weight of your other mods like sliders and bumpers as well as making your truck a lot more un-aerodynamic on the highway. Go with 5:29's!

 

4.88's with the V6, 5.29 with the 4Banger.

 

If you know Longfield you would "understand".


You'll never do what he does and he's pretty much a newbie with that group as well. With time, he won't brake things anymore.

And No, I'm not following him at the hammers with my 99, who do you think I am Shazam?

 

I run 5.29's with an auto and a lot of power but only 33's. I think that would be dead on with 35's regardless of tranny or engine.

All this crap about strength as a deciding factor needs to get squared away.

Yeah, there are more, larger teeth.

No, properly broken in quality gear sets do not frag regularly. People who need 4.88's or even 4.10's for strength are not posting on this board.

 

Another thing is that Longfield has a 100 to 1 crawl, I have a 252 to 1. Big differnce and why Marlin calls it "Ultimate".

Another interesting thing is at the entrance to "Back Door" Longfield had an extremely hard time getting up the sand hill exit, where as my 3rd Gen roared right up.

I did Aftershock and he did do a much harder trail the next day. But then again, I didn't break anything either. I had a great time as well.

 

What engine and transmission do you have? If you have a 3.0L and an auto tranny you will need 5.71's to be around stock gearing if they are true 35's. Some tire makers are off on their tire sizes by quite a bit which adds to the confusion and variety of opinions. Also the engine and tranny makes a big difference too as to what gearing you need. The 3.4 is very different than the 3.0. The auto is very different than the 5 speed. There is no way just give you a blanket answer without that info.

 

4.88s, 2nd t-case, Marlin adapter, 4.7 gears, 424 to 1...we'll see where I can go eventually!

Aw, come on, what's wrong with Shazam?

 

Thanks guys, I think I'll go with the 4.88's.... I'll get some photo's of it on hear as soon as i can...

 

Another thing I haven't seen brought up in this debate is the fact that Toyota's with 2nd gen IFS systems utilize a hi-pinion front 7.5" diff w/reverse-cut gears as compared to 1st gen IFS Toy's with a std. 7.5" diff. Just by running reverse-cut gears there is a substantial strength increase (theoretically enough to make it as strong as the 8" rear or so) Breaking teeth should really be a non-issue for 99% of people for this reason and a few others. The real weakness in the front end lies in the 26/27 spline axle shafts. A setup like Steve's (Marlin Ultimate) that provides for smooth, steady torque multiplication will greatly reduce shock-loads and all but eliminate drivetrain damage when driven properly. Get 5.29's if you plan to wheel, get 4.88's if you drive on the freeway often. Absolutely get 5.29's if you have a 4cyl even if it's a manual, especially if it's an auto.

We are just putting the finishing touches on a new article for offroad.com (10/04 publish) that is about Toyota gears/axles/diffs. It will cover the installation of 5.29's and an ARB as well as general information about choosing what gear ratios and types of diffs are best for your truck.

 

Considering you have a 3rd gen with a 3.4L V-6, go with 4.88's, especially if your gonna be doing some towing. 5.29's are too low and your mileage will suffer and only should be considered an option for the 4banger as suggested by Steve. Now if your planning on adding a Marlin crawl box, I'd even consider 4.56's, so your freeway driving will improve. If I ever have to re-gear I'll most likely go to 4.56 or even 4.30's, just to improve my mileage. With 35's and 4.88's, expect to get an average of 15 mpg city and 17 highway, but with 4.56 it should be a bit better and a lot worse with 5.29's since your rpm's would be running too high.

All in all, i'm very glad I didn't go with 5.29's, also I do tow my boat with this current set-up and I have no problems with the steep hills. As for freeway driving at 75+, my mileage suffers, but if I hold my speed down under 70, I average 17.5.


Now if I can retro-fit the new Taco 6-speed manual transmission, I'd even consider putting my stock 4.10's back in....

 

I've seen plenty carnage with the 5.29 gears. I did my gear swap from 4.3 (V6/Auto) to 4.88, and I am very happy with my setup. I do plan on running 35" tires, and thus the reason for going strait to the 4.88 gears.

 

I have 5.29's and a 3.4 The mileage is better than with the 3.0 and I only have 33's.