Recommendations for rear springs/shocks
#23
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Haha!
I am really interested in how the Bilstien/99 Springs in Front/906's in the rear work out. I still can't decide how I want my truck to ride.
At first, I thought I wanted a cadillac type ride, smooth and cushy. However, I got to take my Mom's new BMW 5 series for a ride yesterday. I'd say its suspension is firm yet much more comfortable than my Bilstien's with stock 97 springs. It could be that mom's BMW has some magic computer controlled suspension and my truck will never hold a candle to it though. I'd like to go for the same feel with my truck though.
I am really interested in how the Bilstien/99 Springs in Front/906's in the rear work out. I still can't decide how I want my truck to ride.
At first, I thought I wanted a cadillac type ride, smooth and cushy. However, I got to take my Mom's new BMW 5 series for a ride yesterday. I'd say its suspension is firm yet much more comfortable than my Bilstien's with stock 97 springs. It could be that mom's BMW has some magic computer controlled suspension and my truck will never hold a candle to it though. I'd like to go for the same feel with my truck though.
Last edited by mjwalfredo; 03-27-2011 at 05:35 PM.
#24
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If i were to do it again
id have gone with OME 880s up front an the 906s in back. In fact the 880s are cheaper then new 99 talls and are a higher rate coil. In fact id like to swap the 99 talls out for some 880s sometime in the future.
The ride is stiff fore and aft and on some surfaces the vehicle and surface frequency can be a bit annoying. Laterally its stiffer for sure so the trucks handling is better. I suppose all you can do now is try some 906s and 880s and see how feel to you. The 1.5 to 2" lift with a tad bit of rake looks great with 265/75/16s. If they dont work theres always a market for them in the classifieds.
The ride is stiff fore and aft and on some surfaces the vehicle and surface frequency can be a bit annoying. Laterally its stiffer for sure so the trucks handling is better. I suppose all you can do now is try some 906s and 880s and see how feel to you. The 1.5 to 2" lift with a tad bit of rake looks great with 265/75/16s. If they dont work theres always a market for them in the classifieds.
Last edited by jrm; 03-28-2011 at 06:55 AM.
#25
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Well a wave of impulsiveness came over me today and I just pulled the trigger on ordering the 880/906 combo with the 60028 (comfort) shocks in the rear from Toytec. I'm a little giddy.
Once the gear comes in, I'll start a new thread to show it off!
Once the gear comes in, I'll start a new thread to show it off!
#27
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Received the spring/shocks yesterday. I ordered from trdparts4u.com (Toyota of Dallas).
Unfortunately, one of the shocks was missing the lower grommet. I will install with the original grommets, which are a bit longer until I have them ship another grommet - so I am hopping they do. The springs/shocks will go in this weekend. I currently have the truck in stands while I am replacing rear axle seals/bearings (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/m...l-seal-232379/). So all seems to be in good sync. However, because of that I won't have "before" pictures.
Unfortunately, one of the shocks was missing the lower grommet. I will install with the original grommets, which are a bit longer until I have them ship another grommet - so I am hopping they do. The springs/shocks will go in this weekend. I currently have the truck in stands while I am replacing rear axle seals/bearings (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/m...l-seal-232379/). So all seems to be in good sync. However, because of that I won't have "before" pictures.
#28
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They [Toyota of Dallas] were awesome. Emailed them yesterday regarding the missing grommet, and already received it today (overnight). That's a good customer service!
#29
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Yesterday I finally installed the springs/shocks as well as the axles with new bearings/seals. The whole process was very easy, specially that I had the axles out, which gave me plenty of space to work with the shocks and springs. As expected from all I read, the most difficult task was taking out the shocks. Luckily one of mine was already broken. The other I ended up hammering out from the lower mount and then moving it back and forth until the bolt broke. The other problem I had is that one of the bolts from the stabilizer bar mount to the axle broke. That mount has two bolts, the one I broke was the lower one. I broke three drill bits and a bolt extractor trying to taking it out. I gave up and installed the mount with the upper bolt alone. I don't think it is that critical since the plate from the bar hooks at the bottom of the mount, so it would be held in place with the upper bolt.
The truck looks great. Pictures are coming.
The truck looks great. Pictures are coming.
#30
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The Pictures
Here are pictures of the truck with the rear OME 906 and original "tall" front. I don't have "before" pictures. Just by looking at the distance from the top of the tires to the fenders there is a difference of about 1" at the back. So the total rear lift compared to my stock runner must have been about 1".
As you can see the OME springs actually looked shorter than the old springs. I worried when I saw this, but the final result is exactly what I wanted. There is a bit of rake, but fine. So far it rides good, but it only has been one day. The ride doesn't feel that much stiff. I will need to ride longer to better report diveability. It is still cold up here, so driving with the boat will have to wait.
Old rusty shocks:
Springs: OME 906s and old
New look (ground had slight tilt down)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
As you can see the OME springs actually looked shorter than the old springs. I worried when I saw this, but the final result is exactly what I wanted. There is a bit of rake, but fine. So far it rides good, but it only has been one day. The ride doesn't feel that much stiff. I will need to ride longer to better report diveability. It is still cold up here, so driving with the boat will have to wait.
Old rusty shocks:
Springs: OME 906s and old
New look (ground had slight tilt down)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
#31
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Looks good...
After running it with the boat in tow about a dozen times, the rake should almost be gone as long as the tongue weight isn't light. And the springs soften up a bit as well with time.
The ride with those old shocks must have been pretty bad.
The ride with those old shocks must have been pretty bad.
#34
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Interesting. How much "sprung" weight does a 3G have in the rear? If it's 600lbs./spring (WAG), the stock compresses 4 inches and the 906 compresses 2.7 inches. Do I have this right?
Last edited by TheDurk; 04-04-2011 at 08:40 AM.
#35
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Durk, based on the information from Gerdo your math is correct. It makes perfect sense. Look at the springs w/o weight in the picture. The 906 were actually shorter, but when they are in the truck, it sits taller. Granted that the 3G springs were a bit "worn" and probably permanently compressed.
#36
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My rear springs were so compressed, that the 4 runner had close to a 3 degree tilt to the left. The 906s were about the best $150 I have ever spent on the 4 runner.
If you have any brake fade or rotor shimmer towing that boat, try the Tundra upgrade next. Use the search engine for write ups. The best upgrade for the 4 runner IMHO.
If you have any brake fade or rotor shimmer towing that boat, try the Tundra upgrade next. Use the search engine for write ups. The best upgrade for the 4 runner IMHO.
#37
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I may consider the Tundra disk brake upgrade. I already get slight vibration when braking hard at high speed. I have three expenses in the future: timing chain, clutch and Tundra disk brake upgrade. I have 120k and have not changed the timing chain yet. The clutch is still ok, but I am sure it will die at some point. Considering that i back my boat into the garage going uphill at a tight fit angle, which makes me burn some of it every time.
#38
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Tony,
It is a timing belt, not chain.
Here is an Ebay link for everything that should be replaced. All OEM or OEM manufactures. And much cheaper that buying all these parts at the dealer. Usually all is replaced except for the crank and cam seals. OEM is the only way to go IMHO.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
It is a timing belt, not chain.
Here is an Ebay link for everything that should be replaced. All OEM or OEM manufactures. And much cheaper that buying all these parts at the dealer. Usually all is replaced except for the crank and cam seals. OEM is the only way to go IMHO.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
#39
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Thanks for the link. Will see. I read some threads about it and sounds like a daunting job. I will have to rest and recover some energy before I start with that job, or I may pay a shop to do it.