Wildcat_4R

I am currently preparing to rebuild my 22re. *Note: This is my first build*.I have it all apart and am ready to start getting parts/machine work done. The insides of the cylinders still feel smooth after 175,000 mi. of service. Once the block is out I am going to get it cleaned and honed. My question is, if the block is just being honed and not bored out I just get stock sized rings and pistons, right? As well I'd like to increase the compression of my motor by getting the head machined down. Taking off about .03 should give me around 9.7:1. Anyone have an opinion on this. With the higher compression should I run a better ignition system like a MSD 6A and a blaster coil to make sure there is complete combustion? There also seems to be some controversy on using an '82 Supra AFM in place of my stock AFM...any thoughts. If anyone has any input on the Q's above or on building a 22RE it would be greatly appreciated. Who knows "how to build the best 22RE"?

jimbo74

just honing wont need larger pistons, stock pistons and rings are fine.....

i wouldnt worry too much about not having enough spark as i would worry about not enough fuel or a cam to run with the extra compression...

Wildcat_4R

As far as a cam goes, I was thinking about with the 268c from engnbldr when I order the rebuild kit. Fuel....could I just get a larger fuel pump?

kyle_22r

don't get your head milled unless you have an adjustable cam gear. these aren't like an american v8 where both the cam and crank are in the block, if you cut down the head or block more than a very small amount, it'll throw the cam timing off.

Wildcat_4R

Would you suggest getting the head slightly ported or is the $150 better spent elsewhere?

jimbo74

kyle is saying go for the milling, jsut make sure to get an adjustable cam gear..... im think lce has them.... ted might have them too

Wildcat_4R

What types of gains could be seen from raising compression to 9.7:1?

jimbo74

well, higher compression normally means more power......

kyle_22r

actually i think porting the head and/or installing oversized valves. 9.5:1 is what you have now, too much more than that and you'll probably have to start buying midgrade gas. remember, most of the power in an engine like this is in the head.

Wildcat_4R

The guy at the machine shop said that the gains of going to larger valves would not be worth the money. I'm a little skeptical on that. I am starting to think that just opening up the head is a better setup than trying to increase compression. It seems that with the higher compression, a whole lot more is needed for a small gain such as ignition upgrades, fuel upgrades, etc. What would be the best way to increase my torque and horsepower reliably?

Wildcat_4R

Planning on pacesetter header, engnblr cam, K & N air intake.....now its down to modifying internals which I have no experience with. Increase compression? Port head? Bigger valves? I get a little lost with all of this and want to learn.

Wildcat_4R

BTW- Just want to thank you all for the info so far.

jimbo74

pacesetter sucks.... anyone but them is good......

Phssthpok

Remember that an engine is, in essence, an air pump. Anything you do to increase it's flow (both in and out) will be of benefit.

Assuming the bore aren't 'out-of-round' you should be able to get by with just a hone as planned. if you dont bore it out theres rally no reason to replace your stock pistons with fresh castings (unless of course theres some damage you haven't mentioned).

I'm with Kyle regarding upping your compression. Going any higher than stock will probbably result in either needing higher grade fuel or mechanically detuning your timing ( had to do that on my RoadRunner ) While higher compression WILL give you more power, if you cant feed the cylinder ( read: Headflow ), then all the compression in the world won't do you any good.

Portmatch your head/intake/exhaust, and add larger valves with that 268 cam and you should see a signifigant increase in USEABLE power.

jimbo74

well im just saying pacesetter sucks... for the money they seem awesome but thats because they rot out in a couple of years and arent the same caliber or quality of the more expensive headers..... for me, i would spend the extra and get the right ones the first time.....

the cam and ported/polished head would be a lot better in useable power..... keep in mind thouhg... this stuff might effect emissions....

sefus

whos ted and does he charge like LCE?
I didnt notice anyproblems with getting mine timed with a .020 shave on the head... but i was on a dyno playing with the a/f ratio at the same time.

jimbo74

ted is www.engnbldr.com he is also a member on this site.. he jsut joined and is pretty helpful and responsive... his stuff is way cheaper than anyone else and his stuff seems to have no problems and still be quality....

my only complaint is he doesnt offer dual meatal backed timing guides for the 85 22r... but thats anotehr issue i still plan on getting all my otehr stuff from him.... most likely will be spending a couple hundred dollars on stuff from him...

Wildcat_4R

Would it just be more worth my money to buy a new Street RV head from engnbldr instead of investing money into my old head to have it machined for new valves and ported and polished?

jimbo74

actually it probably would be cheaper that way... didnt think of that... engnbldr is good people..... his repsone to pms here on the iste isnt very fast, he doesnt spend the amount of time on here like i do... but when i emailed him with questions, he responded with 6 hours.... and i sent him the email @ like 2 am or something.....

jimbo74

if you get his head you need to get the cam too, it isnt included... migth as well get the arp head stud kit too.... they are way good....