jacoblb

So I wanted an e-locker on my non factory equipped 2000 sr5 4runner. I decided that the best and easiest method would be to swap an e-locker axle into it. I procured an e-locker axle off a 97 from a salvage yard. I replaced the pads on the brakes and all the hardware on the axle shafts (bearings, abs ring, etc.) When I went to put everything back together, one of the axle shafts was not sliding in easily. The other would effortlessly slide right into the diff, the problematic axle would go in about a quarter inch and stop. I did some research and the only real suggestion I found was that the axle housing was bent. However, the good axle shaft fit easily on both sides which took some of the blame off the axle being bent (unless it is possible for it to be bent and one shaft fit fine).
I pulled the diff out and tried to fit the axle shaft into it so I would have a better idea of what was going on. Still no luck. After a few attempts, I was finally able to get the shaft in with a little coaxing (a block of wood and Thor's hammer) and a little work to get it out (steel rod, electrical tape, and Thor's hammer). I popped the diff back into the housing and installed the shafts (a little coaxing on the stubborn one).
I swapped the axles and after some electrical troubleshooting, I had the e-locker up and running (blue wire mod included). Now here is where the bucket of problems started.
First off, before the swap, my alignment was pretty much dead on, not exactly perfect, but pretty darn close. After the swap, the truck still tracked relatively true but my steering wheel is about a quarter turn clockwise. Second, RR Diff Lock light will light up and stay illuminated when stopped or going up to 10mph. After that it would start blinking. It would still be engaged as evidenced by rubber noises while turning. Third, I used grey RTV on the diff. I work on helicopters for a living and I made sure to lay and thick even bead. However after filling the diff with oil I have a leak. Its really slow and I'm not immediately concerned about it. But I plan to change the oil within the week and I figured I would try to fix it then. Is it possible to pull the diff out partially without pulling the axles? Also, would I have to remove all the old RTV and give it a full fresh bead or would I be all right "patching" the leaky area? I know on helicopters we would pull everything and replace it with new parts. However, I don't pay myself by the hour to work on my car and all costs come out of my own pocket. Finally (I found out today and did the whole swap Friday) my rear left tire, which I am 75% sure was the good axle shaft, wobbles like crazy while driving. Right tire tracks straight. Any suggestions before I start pulling stuff apart shotgun style. I am most concerned about the wobbly wheel. I live near DC and I drove down to Richmond this morning to pick up a front diff today and I only found out tonight my tire was going berserk when my friend called me saying that he saw me on the road. What I have found through searching is that its either bent axle housing, or bad bearings. Except I'm led to believe that if the axle housing was bent, both shafts would have trouble fitting. As for the bearings, they are brand new.
Any suggestions?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

You could have a bent shaft.

You fix a leak by redoing the FIPG.

No, you can't pull a diff without the axle shafts pulled out of it

:wabbit2:

jacoblb

Thanks. Is there a way to check if its the shaft that's bent or the axle? I would rather do that before buying a new shaft and finding out the one i have now is fine. Also excuse my ignorance but what is fipg?

jacoblb

Formed in place gasket... found it. Well it looks like I have quite a bit cut out for me.

aowRS

I would vote for a bent shaft - those things should slide in w/o persuasion.

Good luck!


Andreas

worshipmentor

iTrader: (3)

You work on things that hold people up in the air for a living and you thought nothing of having to DRIVE THE AXLE IN????? and now it wobbles............
Dude, dont take it personal but I'm NOT flying in one of your choppers............
Seriously, a little off at the spline end (through my elemental understanding of physics) equals a LARGE issue at the outer end. Find another axle, replace the bearing and seal (yes, replace them, that seal and bearing were getting the brunt of the "wobble" so I wouldnt trust them) and DONT GET THOR'S HAMMER BACK OUT.
OH, Praying that THOR'S tool didnt destroy the PIG's bearing might not be a bad idea either.....

jacoblb

Haha.. you have no idea how often we use presses and hammers to install splined parts on helicopters. Off the top of my head there are only 2 shafts that are installed without pressure. However, that's apples and oranges.
First off I didn't beat the shibby out of it putting it in. Just a few soft taps. Second, its not even that shaft that is giving me the wobble. That one is fine. Its the one that slid right in that's wobblying. I already ordered new rings etc for the shaft but I would like to know if there are any symptoms that would point at the shaft or housing being bent. That way I would have a better idea. I've accepted that I'll might have to source another housing and shaft but I'd rather get it right the first time. Any and all advice is appreciated. Thanks for the input so far.

jacoblb

Update: I threw one of my old axle shafts in there and it stopped the wobble. I also swapped the front diff with a 4.30 as well. So all is good. Only issues is that I need to replace all the hardware on that axle shaft and my rear diff still leaks. Also the front diff drain plug is stuck and rounded out. Not too bad. Anyway, here are some pictures.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

So that sounds like the other axle shaft was bent then?

:wabbit2:

jacoblb

Yeah.. The one that went in easy was bent. Anyway, I guess I'll find out when I pull the shafts to redo the diff gasket if the other one is still a PITA.