AW1090

I know there have to be some, but I've searched without any finds. Will someone please point me in the right direction...thanks

cootees

Not a writeup on how to do it.. but while you have them out you may want to consider doing this easy future time saving mod.
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/cheaptricks/quickcv/

reread your subject.. that may even be what you were looking for.

tc

Yes, being able to get those bolts out would make it A LOT easier. Unfortunately, on the passenger side of my '93, they are on the diff side. You'd have to take the whole front end apart to get them to the press

runethechamp

I don't know if what I did was a bad idea, but I got them out using a hammer and an aluminum bar (could find a brass bar when I looked for it at the hardware store). 3-4 good whacks and they came out OK.

Stump1883

Would this mod work on a 3rd gen with ADD. I can't tell what I'm looking at by that picture, but I would love to be able to pull and axel w/o dropping the spindle. I've done enough to where that is only a 20min job now, but I would love to make that even quicker.

tc

Hmm...a case of "if it's still broke, your hammer wasn't big enough"! I didn't have a "soft" drift - was worried bout messing up the bolts so didn't hit them super hard

mt_goat

I got all mine out without removing anything from the truck. I did them one at a time by rotating the cv until I had a stud at the six-o-clock position and used a good C-clamp to press a stud out and replace it with a grade 8 bolt. Actually IIRC I think I was able to file down the ribs on the shoulder of the stud and reuse them. You may also have to turn them around, check for clearance by turning the CVs 360 deg. Also use thread locker so the nuts can't back off, could get messy if the bolt started to back out as the bolts could hit other parts as the CVs are spinning.

mt_goat

I looked at mine and it looks like I reused the factory studs on the drivers side, but I wasn't able to on the pass side. IIRC you can reuse the studs by turning them around (the holes are bigger on the nut side of the CVs) but you still need to lightly file the ribs on the shoulder of the stud. On the pass side there is less room to turn the studs around and I had to use metric grade 10.2 bolts and nylock nuts. You may need to cut the bolts or studs down in length for clearance.

Lunnzz

I pretty much had to disassemble the hub when I replaced a CV shaft what a PITA I think next time I'll knoch the bolts out of the diff side first would make it alot easier..Hey AW1090 I am usually free on weekends if you need a hand.

cootees

I'm not familiar with the 3rd gens.. but as long as it has a half-shaft then I do not see why it wouldn't work. If you do it then I would not suggest using your typical bolts... I would use a grade 8 just to ease the mind.

JamesD

Why not weld a hardened nut to the backside of the hub so you only have to take bolts out and not having to worry if the bolts come loose.

James

AW1090

I'm lovin the info I'm getting here guys.....I'm interested in srv1's response, but will have to get underneath the truck before I could visualize if it would work or not......Hey lunnzz, I'd down for some help this coming weekend, but I won't be doing this....I'll be replacing the rear qtr. glass and rear window. Let me know if you wanna help out and I grab the drinks...

tc

As I was wrestling my CV joint out, I was wonering why Toyota didn't make it that way...

mt_goat

Locknuts and loctight, no worries.

JamesD

Yeah that will work too but you most likely have to use one hand with a bolt than a bolt and a nut you have to use two hands. Also you more parts to worry about losing when you are on the trail. Either way will work and it is faster than the factory setup for sure.

James

Lunnzz

Hey AW1090 if your talking about Thanksgiving weekend then I'm down I'll PM you my number.

tc

Have to do the driver's side CV now (already done the passenger side) and want to do this while I'm under there.

What size bolts do I need to replace the studs with?

eric-the-red

No, it wouldn't. 2nd gens have a flange on the sides of the diff that the axles bolt to, just like on the rear end and transfer case. 3rd gens don't have those flanges, the axles go into the diff.

snap-on

the best plan ive heard is just take the stock studs and grind the ribs off them and re-use them. then you dont have to spend $40 for new grade 8 hardware like i did

mt_goat

I reused the factory studs on the drivers side, but I wasn't able to on the pass side. You can reuse the studs by turning them around (the holes are bigger on the nut side of the CVs) but you still need to lightly file the ribs on the shoulder of the stud. I prefer to file rather than grind because grinding can get the metal too hot sometimes and the bolt could possibly lose its heat treatment. If you turn them around they almost fit without any filing at all.