Proper Warm-Up Method??
#3
There are different schools of thought on this topic and youwill get just asmany views on how it should be done. I would not recommend the 6k method. Start up is the worst time for your engine. You need to get the oil flowing. I have read that after starting, let the oil stablize for around a minute, then begin driving slowly and deliberate. This provides for a complete drive train warm up together, engine, transmission, differentials, transfer case etc. That is the way I drive all of my Toyota's, and never a mechnical issue yet. All of my vehicles are well over 100K miles
#4
In normal temps, oil takes less than 30 seconds to fully circulate. I just turn on, and drive very lightly until full operating temp is reached. Then, I proceed to drive even lighter as I look at the prices at the gas stations.
#5
It depends on the outside temp. I have an autometer oil pressure gauge, so I can tell when my oil has suffienctly warmed up. On start up my oil pressure is around 75psi, I drive lightly until it drops to around 50psi while driving, I then know it has reached operating temp.
#6
X2, but then I'm old and drive like that all the time anyway
#7
It depends on how cold it is and only in extreme cold will I let it idle a couple of minutes and then drive lightly so the tranny warms up with the engine.
In summer I give it about 20 seconds and then drive lightly for a mile or so and it's warmed up enough.
In summer I give it about 20 seconds and then drive lightly for a mile or so and it's warmed up enough.
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#12
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From: Shelburne, VT previous: Everett, WA; Bellingham, WA
owner's manual: "after the engine runs for about 10 seconds, you are ready to drive. if weather is below freezing, let the engine warm up for a few minutes before driving." also "do not race a cold engine", though hopefully that is self-explanatory. bent rods don't replace themselves.
#13
Nuthuts96 FTW
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modern engine management computers allow you to start up and drive immediately. there is no need for a warmup. however, this just means the engine won't die on you, or need any fussing. but
it will still wear out mighty fast if you jump on the gas immediately when it is freezing out.
I'd say, for any motor, if you have to ask about warmup, 60 seconds at least, and then no flooring it until you see the temp needle move
if it is above freezing, just take off after 5 seconds and drive slow and casual for the first few tenths mile. 10 seconds, errr, that is for the
type of transmission ecu, and engine ecu, to decide it's ready enough...does it ker-ThuNK when you shift it ? or has it spun down...
hell if it is an automatic you can floor it before it is -ready- and it will just poke along, not letting you spin it
up 100% until the ect registers something. at least it won't shift up much anyway
but if you drive like that, the problem is the nut behind the wheel
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modern engine management computers allow you to start up and drive immediately. there is no need for a warmup. however, this just means the engine won't die on you, or need any fussing. but
it will still wear out mighty fast if you jump on the gas immediately when it is freezing out.
I'd say, for any motor, if you have to ask about warmup, 60 seconds at least, and then no flooring it until you see the temp needle move
if it is above freezing, just take off after 5 seconds and drive slow and casual for the first few tenths mile. 10 seconds, errr, that is for the
type of transmission ecu, and engine ecu, to decide it's ready enough...does it ker-ThuNK when you shift it ? or has it spun down...
hell if it is an automatic you can floor it before it is -ready- and it will just poke along, not letting you spin it
up 100% until the ect registers something. at least it won't shift up much anyway
but if you drive like that, the problem is the nut behind the wheel
Last edited by BigBallsMcFalls; May 27, 2008 at 04:20 PM.
#14
#16
owner's manual: "after the engine runs for about 10 seconds, you are ready to drive. if weather is below freezing, let the engine warm up for a few minutes before driving." also "do not race a cold engine", though hopefully that is self-explanatory. bent rods don't replace themselves.
#18
you are kidding....right? That is a sure way to break things(especially in cold weather), a friend of mine used to do the same thing...and as I was telling hin..I wouldnt do that cuz....band...popped a valve.... my 2cents
#20
I let mine idle at least 30sec on a normal day(40f or warmer), then drive lightly till warmed fully, in cold weather I let it idle till warm...you use more gas, but engine parts are more expensive (for now)





