I have to solder the FTC from URD's fuel kit to my ECU this weekend. What precautions do I need to make so I won't short out or damage either the ECU or FTC? I do know to disconnect the battery. I'll probably try to remove the ECU from the vehicle so I can work on it more easily.

-S
____

 

Heat the wire, not the solder..


When I installed my TMC 1.1, it came with wire splices. Can't you use the same thing for the FTC?

 

soldering is better.... make sure to use the skrink wraping on each joint....

 

Very important point here. A lot of people think you're supposed to heat the solder instead of the wire, this could make for ineffective cold solders. Once the wire is heated it will draw the solder in.

 

Tin the wires then solder them together. Using some flux (not just what is in the wire) will help this process. Then use heat shrink tubing.

 

Okay, well, I guess I know a little more than I let on. I do know to heat the work, not the solder. What I'm really after is if there is any chance I can do electrical damage to the devices. I don't really understand the physics of electric stoves and soldering irons, so I don't know if they put off an electrical charge if they get grounded. (I've never tried to put both hands on the stove so see if it would shock the life out of me....)

Thanks, guys, for the reminder. Somebody might read this thread in the future and not already know to heat the work.

-Sherpa

 

I think you'll be ok. I used to install stereos where I used to work and I soldered all the time with the battery connected and never had a problem.

 

Good question. In most cases I'd do just that. The kit came with splices, but the directions (from Gadget) say to solder. I have not taken my glovebox out yet to see exactly how I'll be doing this. (the ETC is behind the glovebox) I had considered buying a quick disconnect from Radio Shack so I could remove the FTC if I ever needed to do so. Like I mentioned, I'll have to wait until I can get behind the glove box and find out what is really required before I make a final decision.

-S

 

sherpa,

in my write up on http://4runners.org/articles/headunit/ about installing a new head unit, look under "step 2". in the last paragraph or so, there's a link on the proper way to solder. its the best tutorial w/ pics that i've seen on soldering.

edit: a good tip is to use a box and cut slits in it. place the shrink tubing on one of the wires, twist them together, and then put the two wires on the box slits. heat the wires and eventually when the wire is hot enough, touch the solder to the bare wires and then it'll flow into all the little wire crevices.

i'd recommend practicing to get the "feel", especially to get a sense of how many seconds it takes before the wire is hot enough to apply the solder

bob

 

Really! cool. very good to know. I might just remove the fuse to the ETC to "disconnect" it from the electrical system. I won't be near an electrical outlet, so I'm going to have to run the soldering gun off the battery via a power inverter. I'm sure this will run the battery down rather quickly, which is why I just invested in a much larger battery than stock about 2 weeks ago. If I'm able to make the solders right the first time and quickly, I shouldn't have a problem.

 

you shouldn't hurt any of the electronics if you are just soldering the wires... Just don't heat up the electronics... More than likely the chips in the ECU were/are soldered to some type of interconnect board (ie printed circuit board) so they were heated under assembly unless they were wire bonded using ultrasounics.

edit do disconnect the ECU first...

 

just unplug the neg battery cable to be safe.

bob

 

Are you soldering in the harness or on a circuit board (did I miss this detail?)

 

Outstanding! That is exactly what I was looking for! Much appreciated!

-Sherpa

I love these forums. It is the wealth of knowledge and the sharing of that knowledge that is just one of the things that makes this such a cool place. -S

 

I'm just soldering the harness, not circuit boards. I've done a little soldering in the past, but never on something so expensive. I figured now would be a good time to make sure I was doing it right!

-S

 

I will. The power inverter I used can connect directly to the battery, so I'll just disconnect the negative terminal.

-S

 

The soldering iron does not produce any external charge (ie no current or voltage given off) at all and thus you are fine to use it on really any electronics you want. As someone mentioned, the easiest way to really do damage is to overheat something on a circuit board (I have done that more times than I care to admit....but you gotta learn right!?). Since I assume you are not soldering directly on any boards then you should be totally safe. I try to use the rule of not soldering within 3" of a connector (esp when it connects to a circuit board) and that way you make sure the heat doesn't travel down the wire and damage a component on a board or melt part of the connector.

Another good tip for soldering is to clean the tip regularly after it has been tinned and used a bit. I usually clean it after each connection is made. You do this with an old sponge or folded paper towel soaked in water and wipe off any excess solder and any burnt crap that accumulates on the tip. While you are using the iron the tip should be nice and shiny (if it is not, clean it and if it is still covered in black crap, just hit it lightly with a file or scrape with a razor or knife). This just ensures maximum heat transfer from the iron and all but guarantees a good solder joint. Be sure to get rosin core solder and some extra flux if you get a joint that does not want to cooperate.

This was a great site Bob!...good find!
http://tools.aubuchonhardware.com/do..._to_solder.asp

 

Jamie,

Thanks for the additional tips. I have learned a lot from this thread! Now I think I know why my el cheapo soldering pencil didn't work very well. It had an entirely black tip. Next time I find it and use it I'll be sure to take a wire brush to the tip and clean off all the paint or whatever black coating is on it. I also didn't know anything about tinning before now.

Thanks to all!

-Scott

 

I've been a computer tech for the past 15 years, and one thing I would recommend is to use a soldering iron with a grounded tip. One is available from Radio Shack for under $10. I know you're not working on IC's, but it does involve a computer, and you can never be too safe, especially with the small price.

 

There isn't much room back there and the wires are pretty short.

http://slcpunk2003.tripod.com/id16.html