Okay, so ARB looks like the way to go, right? Who has the best right ups then for the ARB install? Is this a do-it-yourself project with the proper instructions? Thanks for the info

Chris

 

Definitely not a DIY job, unless you are an experienced Toy mechanic with an inch pound torque wrench, a dial indicator and a bearing press.

Both ARB and the E-locker replace the carrier and require gear set-up to install. The E-locker requires housing mods. The ARB requires a single tapped hole in the third.

 

If you buy a factory e-locker, the gears come properly set up from the factory. Just perform the housing mods and bolt it in. Same deal if you're getting one from a junkyard... E-locker requires gear set-up only if you're regearing.

IMO, it's a toss-up... ARB requires gear setup, E-locker requires housing mods.

 

Thanks guys! How much should an install cost for front and rear ARB's? Any ideas on what's reasonable?

Chris

 

If you buy a factory e-locker, the gears come properly set up from the factory. Just perform the housing mods and bolt it in. Same deal if you're getting one from a junkyard... E-locker requires gear set-up only if you're regearing.

IMO, it's a toss-up... ARB requires gear setup, E-locker requires housing mods.

My bad, you can get complete units for either locker, I meant to point out they are both full case lockers and not lunchbox lockers.

Maybe my e-locker envy kicked in.

 

How much of the work are you willing to do yourself? Removing the 3rd and bringing it to a shop to set up the ring gear and press on the bearings shouldn't take a good shop more than a couple/few hours. The rest of the job is pretty straight forward wrenching. I've only done one ARB install (on my last truck) and had a buddy who had a press and dial indicator, so my install cost me a six pack of home brews (plus $550 for the air locker from Rusty's Offroad).

I've been going through the whole e-locker vs arb rear debate as well. I've settled on doing the rear e-locker and arb front. I found a rear e-locker with 4.30s for $400. I've also seen a whole rear e-locker + axle housing for around $700. I'm still undecided about the front and am leaning toward finding a used third with 4.30s so I can have the ARB installed and then just swap thirds.

 

ARB w / Compressor: $800.00

Install: $300.00 (by a local shop that unfortunately is closing)

So, total: $1100.00 for a really nice rear locker and install.

Most expensive single and by far the best mod so far...

Mike

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but the carrier is the 3rd member housing and the case is what the ring gear bolts to and the spider kit sits in. the case is replaced in both lockers but carrier is only replaced for the e-locker. For the ARB you drill and tap a hole in the existing carrier for the air line. that is the only mod for the ARB. yes you do have to set up the gears correctly but if you have any competence with diff's and you don't mind buying a couple special tools that you'll be thankful for later (axle bearing replacement) than it is worth picking them up and trying this yourself (if you like to learn how to do things). My terminology might be reversed on the carreir and case but toyota calls the 3rd member housing the carrier and they call the center dealy the ring gear bolts to the "case" which is the only thing replaced in the ARB install and, of course, the spider kit goes away too.

 

hey flygtenstein, you can't just buy the e-locker from toyota and expect to just bolt it in. you have to purchase a new e-locker 3rd member with the gears installed to get this. unless, of course, you already have an e-locker third member in which case you would just buy the e-locker and the you'd have to get the gears set up.

 

You keep just mentioning the "drivetrain" parts for the elocker (except phong), but how much are you all paying for the solenoid to get it to work correctly? Or is there a way around buying ecu, solenoid. etc.... You know, a cheap man's solution??? I've read a number of acrticles but haven't found one yet. I've got a 2nd gen the idea of slapping another ecu in there doesn't overly thrill me.

 

This is included as part of the write up on 4x4 wire.

I struggled to get it to work. I got it going, then my bootyfabbed exhaust fell apart and cooked the wires. I really want the manual cable actuator for them made by Downey.

 

A third member holds the carrier which in turn holds the ring and the pinion. Common in Toy diffs and the 9" Ford. Also called chunk, hogshead, centersection and assorted other cuss words when it lands on your fingers.

The housing is what you put the third into. "Required housing mods" is a common phrase with e-locker installs. Truncated it becomes an axle, while a housing and a third are together it is a "complete axle."

"Lunchbox lockers" like EZ-Locker and Lockright replace the spider gears, unlike the Detroit, ARB and E-locker that replace the whole carrier and are inherently stronger.

An E-locker requires modifications of the housing, removal and replacement of a couple of the studs and a notching of the housing to accept the e-locker motor. Phong's site does an excellent job of illustrating this point.

An ARB requires a single hole in the third to run the air line out to the compressor.

Kudos to Phong for his hardwork and excellent documentation of the E-locker work. I am an advocate of the ARB and buying a complete third with it already installed, just as you would an E-locker.

Probably another thread killer, oh well.

 

Ok. we'll call it what you want. have you looked up parts and numbers on the russian toyota parts pages? the place where you can search your base VIN code for parts? they have the diagrams and exploded views of everything the way toyota has it at the stealership parts counter on the computer. it differs quite a bit from the terms I see thrown around this BB's so that's why I just wanted to get some clarification on what everybody was talking about because I was calling everything by the nomenclature in the manuals. thread killer? I don't think so. :rolleyes:

 

I dropped of reprints of the articles from 4x4wire on the Isuzu and Toyota install of the ARB. He's looking at it. I need to check in a couple of days. I hope he can do it. I've seen ARB's for $618 recently.

 

I recently installed a Detroit soft locker in my 2nd gen. I am loving it. It has greatly improed my trucks climbing skills.

Costs:

Detroit--$405.
Master install kit--$125.
Mechanic buddy install--$100.

By far the best mod for my truck..I highly recommend it.

 

Factory E-Locker installed when the truck was built: $340.00

Front ARB RD90 & Compressor: $0.00 (I built Kongs an online store and this was payment)

Now the cost of manual hubs is another story..................

But the install cost was "negotiated" as well.

 

I read in this post that the ARB can be had for $550 at Rusty's? Awesome. I just came from the shop that would be setting it up for me for $200.00. The ARB comes with the solenoid, right? I'm planning to get a stout air compressor (something I can run tools off of any way, so the ARB's are the way I'm going)

Now to pool the funds...

 

The $550 price from Rusty's was a while ago. Prices are now listed as $590 for a few common diffs and I'd hope he could get the same price for the Toyota. Yes, the locker comes with a solenoid. You'll just have to get an air tank and 85-100 psi pressure swith to go with your non-arb compressor. You can also get a matching ARB compressor dash switch for around $12 to match the air locker switch that comes with the locker.

 

I got the ECU, wiring harness, and switch for around $40 at a junk yard. Add that to the $400 for the e-locker 3rd, plus all the other little parts (longer studs, gasket, and other stuff documented on phongs awesome site) and my total for retrofitting an e-locker 3rd will be around $500. I'll be doing the install myself with the help of my brother and his welder.

 

Best price I found for ARB front and rear plus compressor and install in Missouri.

Lockers 650 @
Compressor 185
Install 200@

Got the dealer list from ARB and talked to each one
and am not comfortable with any of these shops doing the install based on my discussions with them. My truck only has 3500 miles on it and am not willing to turn it over to just anyone to screw it up. Have heard some horror stories about things gone wrong.

Major stress, having the money ready and wanting to get it done now, but too paranoid.