It is a pretty iffy OEM design. It shouldn't be so difficult to install correctly.

You probably wouldn't need a whole seal ring either, just a spacer of the correct stack height to go between it and the ABS ring.

 

DRCOFF - just curious, do you run conventional diff oil, or synthetic?
I've had probs with leaking when running synthetic, however, that was also using aftermarket - prob TIMKEN - seals. bought but never installed the Toy seals, bc I switched back to conventional, and the problem went away.

 

I see what you are asking. The problem with my seals was they were nowhere close to riding on the retainer. I'm sure others are having the same problem.

My truck was leaking conventional lube when I bought it in Feb. and I replaced everything and filled it with Mobil 1. After 3 failures it dawned on me the seal was riding on the bevel and not the retainer's polished surface. Now I have Royal Purple 75W140 in there. No leaks.

 

good information, thanks for confirming. I'm pretty sure my issue was probably a weak/worn seal, but I think this is how it becomes urban legend that synthetic fluids make your seals leak

 

Just in time post. I found a leaky seal in my 120 when I had the axle apart to drop in an ARB. I'll use these tips when I pull it apart and have a replacement Toy part. I too have had hit and miss getting them to work right on my 3rd Gen. Thanks!

 

9/15/2012

* not a drop of oil leaking. Its been 3500+ miles

 

awesome thread. i replaced mine but during the winter after a long mountain drive i can smell some wierd stuff emitting from the rear passenger wheel well. I think they have a slight leak again so this thread will help when i replace again.

 

I sure am glad I read a little bit more into the rear axle leak threads. Without spotting this info I would probably have wasted a bunch of time incorrectly installing the retainer or seal.

I am over 200,000. My rear shoes on both sides are drenched in gear oil, and they were both fine maybe 5000-10000 miles ago. I know because I was investigating a clunk sound (proved to be the sway bar links), and I discovered a noticeable axial play when doing the push-pull on each rear wheel. I didn't measure it, but I would guess it is 1-2mm. I wonder now if the initial axle leak problem is not so much the result of worn seals, or radial play in the bearings, but the result of axial play in the bearings and the somewhat small overlap of the inner seal and retainer.

To place the retainer correctly, I'd think it would be possible to find washers that could be stacked for proper spacing in lieu of a properly sized retainer.

I have bought the seals (skf) but not the bearings. One thing that is confusing to me is while the outer seal has two lips, the inner seal has only one. Did they sell me the wrong one here?

 

Have you read this this thread?
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...d-3rd-gen.html

I just take my observation and discussion a few steps further into the to actual placement of the retainer on the axle.

*Use only Toyota parts on this job.

 

That link is another great thread, but I think you have added a critical piece to the discussion by thinking it through. After re-reading I understand that the OEM inner seal has only one lip. Non-OEM seals may have a 2nd dust lip.

I'm surprised Toyota doesn't have a removable spacer to press on the ABS ring, and some washers to space the final retainer. If I were a pessimistic guy, I'd say they want to keep us in the dark so they can rake in the bucks for the work. That $200-300 press tool does not sound so expensive now.

 

How long is the axle shaft from tip to lug studs?
I have access to the small HF press but it only has 33" working depth, and 3.5" between beam plates. Not sure if the axle/SST will fit.

Seems like many out there have made their own SST. Anyone near San Diego willing to let me borrow/sell me one. If someone knows of a shop with the skills, I'd consider that too.

 

This thread makes far too many unproven claims, and provides no evidence to support not following the FSM install specifications. All the evidence provided is highly skewed towards the authors opinions. And/or displays factual information described in a non-factual manner in effort to support the OP/author's hypothesis. Which the evidence does not suggest is correct. In fact quite the opposite.

As it stands it's purely conjecture. And it proves nothing at all. The pics above, as well as the video, show that quite clearly. The TSB doesn't mention applying any other changes required than a new part(seal) and a new SST(seal driver). Why does it not mention the need to alter the method of installation? Because it's not required. Plain and simple.

There's no problem with these new seals, or with following the factory recommended installation procedure. The notion that either is flawed in any way is entirely baseless. As there is no evidence proving either of them to be so.

Thanks for proving that for us though.

 

Wow! Just Wow!.

Outside of my personal experience, go ahead search the countless threads on getting these axles sealed for yourself. It's got to be one of the most posted thread topics on any 4Runner/Tacoma forum.

No sir, your post is baseless and devoid of any factual data. I have measured and measured again and there is no way the retainer can effectively reach the axle seal if you follow the FSM measurements. The proof is in the grease test. But don't let the facts get in the way of your opinion. If you don't agree that's fine. Just keep moving.

Answer me this "Are your axles sealed or just not leaking onto the brakes?" I would bet dollars to doughnuts that axles are leaking past the inner seal and bathing the bearings in gear lube, BUT its not until the axle breather gets clogged that built up pressure within the axle housing forces the lube out onto the brake shoes. You can check your seals by removing your wheels and look inside the axle housing through the ABS sensor hole. Or you can just speculate that the FSM is correct.

A member on ToyotaNation used my procedure and posted back 2 days ago and has finally sealed his axles. Given time, this will be the procedure of choice.

And to your point about the TSB from 2003. Its a bandaid solution to a vehicle model no longer in production. Rarely will a manufacturer put money into R&D on discontinued products.

 

One commonly over-looked problem is that after replacing the bearing, there are rough spots on the axle from pressing retainers and bearings on and off. Fluid can leak between the retainer and axle. As per the recommendations of a Toyota engineer and an instructor at Toyota school, I always apply a thin bead of red fipg between the inner most retainer(the one the seal rides on) and axle prior to installation. Never a single come-back, and I've done a lot of them

 

Great point but I also considered that as well. On attempt #2, 3 and finally 4 I used FIPG at that spot. It leaked just as much on 2 & 3.

What I would like to do is find a trashed or leaking axle housing and do a demonstration cut-away. I assure you that the retainer isn't getting deep enough into the seal, but until a picture can be had, it's just too hard for most people to imagine.

 

What's red fipg?

Thanks,

 

Toyota's RTV silicone gasket maker.

 

Thanks, DRCOFFEE!

 

DRCOFFEE, it's the RTV silicone?

http://toyotany.com/permatex-81878-u...ker-3-oz-tube/

 

Here, this is a more complete answer. I think.

FIPG

I wish it was permatex. FIPG at the dealer was $20 for a tube.