95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

Pitman & Idler Arm

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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 09:42 AM
  #1  
mastacox's Avatar
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From: Fort Worth, TX
Pitman & Idler Arm

Any body have a line on relatively cheap replacement Pitman and Idler arms for a 2nd gen V-6 4Runner? I need new one since the alignment guy said they need to be replaced and he quoted me like $500

I figure I can get both for around $100, stupid Checker wants like $200 so I thought I might ask around first...

P.S.
Any one have a line on a good How-To on replacing a clutch in a 2nd gen? I feel adventurous...
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 09:51 AM
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did my clutch in over two days as i had the flywheel resurfaced at napa, also did the rear main seal at the same time. a vertical lift tranny jack really helped with the install. i found this to be one of the easier clutch jobs i've done. i have a 1st gen 4runner but it's a v6 and 5 speed of course.
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 10:04 AM
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From: El Paso, TX
Rebuild the idler arm if it's not bent.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/idler/
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 11:40 AM
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From: Fort Worth, TX
Originally Posted by gwhayduke
Rebuild the idler arm if it's not bent.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/idler/
The bushings aren't the problem, apparently the ball joint at the end of it has hit the end of the line, I have just recently replaced the idler arm bushings...
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 11:42 AM
  #5  
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From: Fort Worth, TX
Originally Posted by rivercat
did my clutch in over two days as i had the flywheel resurfaced at napa, also did the rear main seal at the same time. a vertical lift tranny jack really helped with the install. i found this to be one of the easier clutch jobs i've done. i have a 1st gen 4runner but it's a v6 and 5 speed of course.
Would you say a flywheel resurface is mandatory? I have about 120,000 miles on my vehicle, and limited funds at the moment.
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 12:00 PM
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From: Canada
Yeah Email

Ara Bulunmaz
ara.bulunmaz@bellnet.ca

He sells on ebay by the name of arm_can

I buy all my parts from him He quoted me $46.00 for an Idler Arm
Tell him Michael aka Mudrunner sent ya

Last edited by 4Hummer; Jan 11, 2005 at 12:07 PM.
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 12:09 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by mastacox
Would you say a flywheel resurface is mandatory? I have about 120,000 miles on my vehicle, and limited funds at the moment.
If you're going to deal with all the work associated with the clutch you might as well resurface the flywheel or buy a new one. I worked on my clutch with Milton under the supervision of some guys who really knew their stuff and I think I'd bang my head against the wall repeatedly if I knew I had to do it again sometime soon.
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 03:44 PM
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From: snoqualmie,wa
might as well resurface while your in there, the rear main seal would also be something to thing about... you can do that while the flywheel is in the shop
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 04:56 PM
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From: Fort Worth, TX
Originally Posted by rivercat
might as well resurface while your in there, the rear main seal would also be something to thing about... you can do that while the flywheel is in the shop
AH, new flywheels at Checker are only $42.00, I think I'll do that too... Rear main seal, could I get a quick explanation of which seal that is, I'll probably do that too.
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 07:11 PM
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From: Fort Worth, TX
So, does anyone know of an article outlining what to do in replacing a clutch, or do I go and adapt a general article for some other car...
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 07:31 PM
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Rear main seal to your oil pan. When I went to NAPA they had the seal but not the crankshaft gasket :pat:
We ended up using a lot of silicone sealant to make up for it.
Of course with any project you should do this but make sure you have all your parts before you unpack your tools.

Check out your local auto supply shop and look at the Haynes manual or something. It's pretty straightforward it's just a lot of work if your unfamiliar to it. If I had to do it again I'm sure it wouldn't take 2 days labor with up to 4 guys working on it at once.

There was one part we had a bit of trouble with when we were doing this. Let me go find my manual and see what it was...

Last edited by Tacoma Dude; Jan 11, 2005 at 07:43 PM.
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 07:39 PM
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...ah yes, the flywheel bolts. Installation directions tell you to use lock-tite when you're putting the bolts back on so we had a lot of trouble getting the suckers off. We used (cheaper Harbor Freight) pneumatic tools and couldn't get it off because the entire thing kept moving.
I think it was Bruce that stopped by and told us we'd need some sort of bar (with holes drilled in) to stabilize the flywheel so that the bolts could be removed. I watched Steve's friend, Jim's younger brother struggle with those things - red in the face, veins popping out, the gutteral "eergghhhh!!!"

Lots of fun but it was a good time, I think
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Old Jan 12, 2005 | 04:36 AM
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From: El Paso, TX
Here's a link to an electronic version of the shop manual for the '95 3.0. You should find some good info on clutch replacement in it.

95 Shop Manual
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