The Perfect Power SMT piggyback controller
09-29-2005, 01:57 PM
#81
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Originally Posted by midiwall
Everything's soldered, right?
And I am not practicing what I preach, because I normally solder everything. Some connections are crimp connected (I know what you are going to say Mark, so don't say it!
)Ok, I will find a good ground and look into soldering everything.
Yeah, but the real thing is that it should _never_ happen, so twice is too much.
09-29-2005, 04:13 PM
#82
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Originally Posted by <96 Runner>
(I know what you are going to say Mark, so don't say it! )
)
heh.
Break out the soldering iron dude.. and some steel wool for the paint on the inner body.
10-04-2005, 06:42 AM
#84
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FYI you can go to the following website for a description of most fault codes
http://www.carclinicmagazine.com/fau...e_library.html
It looks like p0100 is a VAF or AMP circuit malfunction, which could point to excessive voltage being read by your ecu, the 5V clamp may be a valid solution here. I am not 100% convinced by this I would have expected an overboost error to come up with this as well.
A value of 1 on the analog zero setting is a global fuel adjustment across the entire analog map; it represents 19mV (0.019V) of adjustment to the MAP sensor voltage, not much change.
In your case I would recheck the power and ground connections, I would not recommend a chassis connection there is all sorts of stuff floating around there, the battery connection is good but I am still a big fan of a direct ecu connection, especially a switched one. Just a thought, you have connected the SMT6 directly to the battery? This problem came up after the car was switched off and sat for a while. This would mean the SMT6 is on while everything else is off, or perhaps the ecu is in some sort of shut down mode, it is possible the ecu may detect something it feels should not be there while the engine is off. A switched power source should solve this if it is the problem. If you cant find a switched power on the ecu how about connecting power after the ignition switch or relay?
http://www.carclinicmagazine.com/fau...e_library.html
It looks like p0100 is a VAF or AMP circuit malfunction, which could point to excessive voltage being read by your ecu, the 5V clamp may be a valid solution here. I am not 100% convinced by this I would have expected an overboost error to come up with this as well.
A value of 1 on the analog zero setting is a global fuel adjustment across the entire analog map; it represents 19mV (0.019V) of adjustment to the MAP sensor voltage, not much change.
In your case I would recheck the power and ground connections, I would not recommend a chassis connection there is all sorts of stuff floating around there, the battery connection is good but I am still a big fan of a direct ecu connection, especially a switched one. Just a thought, you have connected the SMT6 directly to the battery? This problem came up after the car was switched off and sat for a while. This would mean the SMT6 is on while everything else is off, or perhaps the ecu is in some sort of shut down mode, it is possible the ecu may detect something it feels should not be there while the engine is off. A switched power source should solve this if it is the problem. If you cant find a switched power on the ecu how about connecting power after the ignition switch or relay?
10-04-2005, 08:11 AM
#85
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It happened on Sunday also. So, I spent Sunday evening soldering all the important connections and relocating the ground off the ECU ground to a chasis ground. I drove the rig Monday with no further issues. I will monitor and continue to make small changes each time this happens. My next step will be to regulate the voltage, but for now, I will leave it directly hooked up to the battery.
It's funny because I am now really feeling the negative timing (after soldering the connections) much more than before. Wow, it REALLY works!
It's funny because I am now really feeling the negative timing (after soldering the connections) much more than before. Wow, it REALLY works!
10-04-2005, 05:48 PM
#86
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Originally Posted by scrubhr
In your case I would recheck the power and ground connections, I would not recommend a chassis connection there is all sorts of stuff floating around there, the battery connection is good but I am still a big fan of a direct ecu connection, especially a switched one. Just a thought, you have connected the SMT6 directly to the battery? This problem came up after the car was switched off and sat for a while. This would mean the SMT6 is on while everything else is off, or perhaps the ecu is in some sort of shut down mode, it is possible the ecu may detect something it feels should not be there while the engine is off. A switched power source should solve this if it is the problem. If you cant find a switched power on the ecu how about connecting power after the ignition switch or relay?
When the key is in the ON and Start position the power should be hot....lots of switched poistions are off when tghe key is int he start position...this will bring you back to your orginal problem of not starting at all
10-04-2005, 11:26 PM
#87
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Believe me I have spent a lot of time swearing at Toyota, the most effective way of finding a power connection is with a scope and an smt6.
1) Key on engine running make sure you have 12V without any switching. You can check this on the scope.
2) Key off, make sure power drops away.
3) Key on make sure power comes on again.
4) Start the engine power should dip away but not go less than 8Vdc.
5) One special extra unique to Toyota, with the black wire grounded tap the red wire on your proposed power point, make sure power does not drop away, Toyota has current limitation on some of its outputs.
The main advantage of having power and ground off the ecu is that 12V is switched, which means the SMT6 is off when the ECU is off and ground is at the same reference level as the ECU's circuitry, this allows for a more accurate crank and MAP sensor reference because there is no offset between the ecu ground and SMT6 ground which results in additional voltage to the signal.
1) Key on engine running make sure you have 12V without any switching. You can check this on the scope.
2) Key off, make sure power drops away.
3) Key on make sure power comes on again.
4) Start the engine power should dip away but not go less than 8Vdc.
5) One special extra unique to Toyota, with the black wire grounded tap the red wire on your proposed power point, make sure power does not drop away, Toyota has current limitation on some of its outputs.
The main advantage of having power and ground off the ecu is that 12V is switched, which means the SMT6 is off when the ECU is off and ground is at the same reference level as the ECU's circuitry, this allows for a more accurate crank and MAP sensor reference because there is no offset between the ecu ground and SMT6 ground which results in additional voltage to the signal.
11-02-2005, 10:23 AM
#88
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*update*
Ever since the proper ground and soldering of the main (cut) wires, everything has worked flawlessly. 
Good call guys.
I am just loving the tunability of the SMT. It really works awesome and is very user friendly. I cannot believe how responsive the engine is to even slight timing/fuel changes. Being overly cautious at first, I found that I had killed a great deal of my low RPM power. As the weather changes and I get better at tweaking, I have managed to really get a nice map going. Even with the deckplate open I am well within the capability of the stock injectors. Yes folks, it can be done, just as some of the gurus like Mark have said in the past. Even with the deckplate open I am well within stock injector capability at high R's. I have also found that during normal driving the first 6 - 8 cells in column one (32% throttle) are used. As a result, I have advanced the timing a bit in this range and found the results to be excellent. The engine really responded well to that adjustment. After my latest tweak to the map, which involved some low RPM advanced timing and backing off the timing reduction in the 2K - 3K "ping zone," the rig absolutely flies. I am not sure why it made so much of a difference, but it really did. I also added a touch more fuel at the very top, which has created a nice "pull" from 5K to 5.5RPM.
Highly recommended mod for those SC'd guys looking to get their tuning under control.
Good call guys.I am just loving the tunability of the SMT. It really works awesome and is very user friendly. I cannot believe how responsive the engine is to even slight timing/fuel changes. Being overly cautious at first, I found that I had killed a great deal of my low RPM power. As the weather changes and I get better at tweaking, I have managed to really get a nice map going. Even with the deckplate open I am well within the capability of the stock injectors. Yes folks, it can be done, just as some of the gurus like Mark have said in the past. Even with the deckplate open I am well within stock injector capability at high R's. I have also found that during normal driving the first 6 - 8 cells in column one (32% throttle) are used. As a result, I have advanced the timing a bit in this range and found the results to be excellent. The engine really responded well to that adjustment. After my latest tweak to the map, which involved some low RPM advanced timing and backing off the timing reduction in the 2K - 3K "ping zone," the rig absolutely flies. I am not sure why it made so much of a difference, but it really did. I also added a touch more fuel at the very top, which has created a nice "pull" from 5K to 5.5RPM.
Highly recommended mod for those SC'd guys looking to get their tuning under control.
11-02-2005, 11:06 AM
#89
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Originally Posted by <96 Runner>
Highly recommended mod for those SC'd guys looking to get their tuning under control.
11-02-2005, 11:21 AM
#90
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Originally Posted by tulsa_97SR5
Can you see any possibility for non-SC'd rigs? Wondering if it'd be possible to improve upon the stock Toyota map?
11-02-2005, 12:12 PM
#91
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Originally Posted by <96 Runner>
Hopefully Mark will jump in here. If I am not mistaken, he had the SMT 5 on his rig prior to forced induction. And, without putting words in his mouth, I think he said he was able to squeeze a tad more power out of the motor, but that it wasn't really worth the cost/effort. Correct me if I am wrong Mark.
I ran the SMT (-5 in my case) for quite a while before I added the S/C, and... it's a lot of fancy electronics for not a lot of gain.
The key thing that you could expect out of running it on an N/A engine is that you'll be able to feed more fuel during WOT and advance the timing all over the map. With a timing advance, you'll be able to get a bit more leap out of the engine, but adding fuel up top won't buy you anything unless you can get more air into the engine as well, you'll just be wasting fuel.
I think the -6 is running about $400 new. If you're gonna stay N/A, then I'd spend that money on a nice cat-back system. if you've already gone there, then spend it on new tires, or a suspension upgrade. You'll get a lot more mileage out of your dollars.
(thanks Shannon!)
11-02-2005, 12:40 PM
#92
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Originally Posted by midiwall
Nope, you're right Christian...
I think the -6 is running about $400 new. If you're gonna stay N/A, then I'd spend that money on a nice cat-back system. if you've already gone there, then spend it on new tires, or a suspension upgrade. You'll get a lot more mileage out of your dollars.
I think the -6 is running about $400 new. If you're gonna stay N/A, then I'd spend that money on a nice cat-back system. if you've already gone there, then spend it on new tires, or a suspension upgrade. You'll get a lot more mileage out of your dollars.
11-28-2005, 05:11 AM
#94
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Perfect Power is having a Two-For-One Sale!
I just received this email flyer from Perfect power:
I just received this email flyer from Perfect power:
Dear Subscriber
As a token of appreciation to all our Perfect Power website visitors and subscribers, here is your chance to get a piggy-back system (SMT6-UKIT) for you and your buddy!!!
The good news is, only your buddy pays! ! !
Yes, we are offering a once off Christmas special, two units for the price of one.
The SMT6-UKIT can be used to tune your engine for peak performance, and at the flick of a switch, for minimum fuel consumption. Both map sets are retained and can be selected.
For all the details of this well proven unit, just click on SMT6 and see what all else your SMT6 can do for you.
But hurry, this offer is subject to stock availability and expires on the 5th January 2006.
Depending on your physical location, mode of transport, import duties and/or taxes, the prices will vary from country to country. The price for the SMT6 BUDDY KIT is the same price as the SMT6-UKIT, but with an extra FREE SMT6 unit and harness.
WHAT DOES THE SMT6 BUDDY KIT INCLUDE?
2 x SMT6 piggy back units
2 x SMT6 wiring harnesses
1 x SMT6 Shorting plug
1 x SMT6 Communication cable
1 x SMT6 Developers CD with Manuals
Two SMT6 units are for you and your buddy at the price of one SMT6 User Kit.
The package above has all the necessary tools to get both of you started and on your way to having fun with you cars.
WHAT CAN I EXPECT TO PAY?
The SMT6 User Kit retails differently in every country. Please approach your local dealer or distributor for a quotation, which might already include shipping.
The retail price depends in which country you are in, import duties and taxes, so consult one of our friendly dealers for their price. Remember that the SMT6 BUDDY KIT should be the same price as a SMT6-UKIT from the dealer.
To apply for the SMT6 BUDDY KIT Special, you will need to visit the www.perfectpower.com website and complete the voucher details. This will enable you to get a discount certificate, which you can present to any Perfect Power dealer around the world. For a list of Perfect Power dealers, please visit the Perfect Power website at www.perfectpower.com, they are friendly and can also assist with the installation and dyno tuning.
Terms and Conditions apply.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
Your Perfect Power Team.
Our local dealer here on Yotatech is Johnny (Weasy2k). Contact him through the forum with a PM or email. Or through his website, sea2skytuning.com.
As a token of appreciation to all our Perfect Power website visitors and subscribers, here is your chance to get a piggy-back system (SMT6-UKIT) for you and your buddy!!!
The good news is, only your buddy pays! ! !
Yes, we are offering a once off Christmas special, two units for the price of one.
The SMT6-UKIT can be used to tune your engine for peak performance, and at the flick of a switch, for minimum fuel consumption. Both map sets are retained and can be selected.
For all the details of this well proven unit, just click on SMT6 and see what all else your SMT6 can do for you.
But hurry, this offer is subject to stock availability and expires on the 5th January 2006.
Depending on your physical location, mode of transport, import duties and/or taxes, the prices will vary from country to country. The price for the SMT6 BUDDY KIT is the same price as the SMT6-UKIT, but with an extra FREE SMT6 unit and harness.
WHAT DOES THE SMT6 BUDDY KIT INCLUDE?
2 x SMT6 piggy back units
2 x SMT6 wiring harnesses
1 x SMT6 Shorting plug
1 x SMT6 Communication cable
1 x SMT6 Developers CD with Manuals
Two SMT6 units are for you and your buddy at the price of one SMT6 User Kit.
The package above has all the necessary tools to get both of you started and on your way to having fun with you cars.
WHAT CAN I EXPECT TO PAY?
The SMT6 User Kit retails differently in every country. Please approach your local dealer or distributor for a quotation, which might already include shipping.
The retail price depends in which country you are in, import duties and taxes, so consult one of our friendly dealers for their price. Remember that the SMT6 BUDDY KIT should be the same price as a SMT6-UKIT from the dealer.
To apply for the SMT6 BUDDY KIT Special, you will need to visit the www.perfectpower.com website and complete the voucher details. This will enable you to get a discount certificate, which you can present to any Perfect Power dealer around the world. For a list of Perfect Power dealers, please visit the Perfect Power website at www.perfectpower.com, they are friendly and can also assist with the installation and dyno tuning.
Terms and Conditions apply.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
Your Perfect Power Team.
01-04-2006, 05:02 AM
#98
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I am sure this has been asked before, but I still don't know the answer. In the fuel map section, if I am at 0, the injectors are running as they normally would, correct? That leads me to my question. At certain places on the map matrix I have added fuel. For example, I have a couple 4's at the top end.
What exactly is a "1" doing to the fuel injection? In other words, how much extra fuel (or injector duration time?) am I adding each step "up" from 0?
TIA
What exactly is a "1" doing to the fuel injection? In other words, how much extra fuel (or injector duration time?) am I adding each step "up" from 0?
TIA
01-04-2006, 05:24 AM
#99
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by <96 Runner>
I am sure this has been asked before, but I still don't know the answer. In the fuel map section, if I am at 0, the injectors are running as they normally would, correct?
That leads me to my question. At certain places on the map matrix I have added fuel. For example, I have a couple 4's at the top end.
What exactly is a "1" doing to the fuel injection? In other words, how much extra fuel (or injector duration time?) am I adding each step "up" from 0?
What exactly is a "1" doing to the fuel injection? In other words, how much extra fuel (or injector duration time?) am I adding each step "up" from 0?
Each positive value is good for an additional 0.1ms of open injector time. Each negative value is good for a reduction of 0.1ms of open injector time.
So... If you have a "4" in a cell, then the injectors will be open an additional 0.4ms (4/10s of 1ms). If you had a -5 in a cell, then the injectors will be open 0.5ms (5/10s of 1ms) LESS than "stocK".
The actual amount of additional fuel injected into the cylinder will depend on the fuel pressure and injector size.
TIA
