The Perfect Power SMT piggyback controller
08-16-2005, 08:05 PM
#41
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Originally Posted by midiwall
Wow... HI NEIL! 
I'll re-send the email since I haven't heard anything. Is there a better address than just the info@? If you don't want to post it publically, drop me a line at mark@midiwall.com
THANK YOU for the breakout of the options. Christian is going to be visiting my area next week (he's in Arizona, I'm in Washington), so I'll be able to sit with him and go through it. I'll try a couple of things, incluing dropping my -5 into his truck, and trying his -6 in mine.
If you remove the MAF, you'll still need some way to get airflow information into the ECU. There are other ways to do this, but these generations of trucks are looking for a 0-5v signal that tracks air flow.
If you're thinking that the MAF is restrictive, and you're looking to remove the MAF to increase airflow, then the better thing is to fashion a larger diameter MAF into the intake. A lot of folks use a MAF from a Supra, which is a good bit bigger than ours.
I'll re-send the email since I haven't heard anything. Is there a better address than just the info@? If you don't want to post it publically, drop me a line at mark@midiwall.com
THANK YOU for the breakout of the options. Christian is going to be visiting my area next week (he's in Arizona, I'm in Washington), so I'll be able to sit with him and go through it. I'll try a couple of things, incluing dropping my -5 into his truck, and trying his -6 in mine.
If you remove the MAF, you'll still need some way to get airflow information into the ECU. There are other ways to do this, but these generations of trucks are looking for a 0-5v signal that tracks air flow.
If you're thinking that the MAF is restrictive, and you're looking to remove the MAF to increase airflow, then the better thing is to fashion a larger diameter MAF into the intake. A lot of folks use a MAF from a Supra, which is a good bit bigger than ours.
08-16-2005, 09:17 PM
#42
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Originally Posted by HappyPills
What I really don't understand, does it make your truck run smoother, better gas mileage or something else?
I'll assume you're asking about the MAF, even though this thread is about something totally different.
The MAF is a Mass Air Flow sensor. It tells the computer that controls your engine how much air is coming into it. If it wasn't there, then the engine wouldn't be able to adjust for varying loads, and it would run like crap. Technically, our engines don't run at all without the MAF.
Something like this is needed on a fuel injected engine because there's a computer that's controlling how much fuel is being shot into the cylinders and when the spark plugs fire. When you have more air coming in, you need more fuel and vice-versa. The MAF gives the computer the data required to make those decisions.
08-17-2005, 01:57 AM
#43
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Well removing the MAF sensor means less restriction which means more air into the manifold which allows for more power, it also means less lag which I would assume results in a smoother ride.
I am more comfortable with electronics so feel free to scream at me if I am talking rubbish.
The role the SMT6 plays in this is that the original ecu reads a 0-5V signal, if it came from a toaster oven it really would not know any different, but... the map values inside the ecu are tune to work with a certain profile, in MAP to MAF conversions you need to keep an eye voltage of the MAF sensor before doing the conversion. Make a note of the voltage level at idle and make note of the range of voltages it reaches while driving. You then use the SMT6 to mimic this profile. The SMT7 has an auto learn feature that does all this for you.
I am more comfortable with electronics so feel free to scream at me if I am talking rubbish.
The role the SMT6 plays in this is that the original ecu reads a 0-5V signal, if it came from a toaster oven it really would not know any different, but... the map values inside the ecu are tune to work with a certain profile, in MAP to MAF conversions you need to keep an eye voltage of the MAF sensor before doing the conversion. Make a note of the voltage level at idle and make note of the range of voltages it reaches while driving. You then use the SMT6 to mimic this profile. The SMT7 has an auto learn feature that does all this for you.
09-19-2005, 09:22 PM
#45
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Originally Posted by midiwall
(see above)
* bump *
Dig into your global settings folks - Christian needs help!
* bump *
Dig into your global settings folks - Christian needs help!
Check out this reply from the nice guy(s) at Sea2skytuning (www.sea2skytuning.com). I didn't even buy this from him, but he was kind enough to reply:
Hey man sorry about the delay i have been having email server issues fo the longest time and i finally got this figured out! I dunno if you got this reply already but i noticed it didnt have a replied to on my client here so i dunno if it went or not.
Anyway to start, dont worry about buying it from me...my goal ist o make as many people get these units running as possible. So ill get right to it here.
No i did not have any trouble since day 1 on getting this unit to work on my 96 tacoma at all and have been using it for 3 years now (3 different pulleys as
well) and 45k km on it So it works i assure you! Now to get there....
The wire you have to cut into has to be the NE+ wire wiether it be violet, green or whatnot I seem to believe the PIN out vs the colour. With this it is on PIN 2 of PLUG B. This wire gets cut and the part FROM the crank sensor goes to the yellow smt6 wire and the wire going TO the ecu should be PINK. I see that you did this but dont pull a me and ge the 2 mixed up lol
Global Settings should be
1) System config the first 3 radio buttons should be on the left side with the right being on the right 2)Be on MODE 1 3)Ignition should be set at: 36 teeth per turn and 12 teeth per firing.
I had my
limits set at +5 and -12 that doesnt relaly matter tho.
4) Upper limit 5v lower 0v
NOW! My other mistake...make sure the SMT6 is hooked up to a source which allows for the unit to be ON!! when on the start position...aka i just hooked mine stright to battery fused and have it on all the time...doesnt take any power so i dont mind.
Usualy when you use the wiring diagrams out there the wire you tap into shutsdown when you are on the start poistion and the smt6 shutsdown and lets no signal pass...thus having a problem with starting This doesnt happen with it T'd cause the crank signal is working
No start...then get a 1k ohm resistor and put it to the yellow wire and the other side to the ground (make sure its hooke up right or else it wont work) Also trying putting a 4.7k resistor on the BLUE/BLACK wire on the smt6 and the other end to a 12v power source.
I shoul dhave a better wiring diagram with insturctions posted shortly.
Let me know how this goes
Anyway to start, dont worry about buying it from me...my goal ist o make as many people get these units running as possible. So ill get right to it here.
No i did not have any trouble since day 1 on getting this unit to work on my 96 tacoma at all and have been using it for 3 years now (3 different pulleys as
well) and 45k km on it
So it works i assure you! Now to get there....The wire you have to cut into has to be the NE+ wire wiether it be violet, green or whatnot I seem to believe the PIN out vs the colour. With this it is on PIN 2 of PLUG B. This wire gets cut and the part FROM the crank sensor goes to the yellow smt6 wire and the wire going TO the ecu should be PINK. I see that you did this but dont pull a me and ge the 2 mixed up lol
Global Settings should be
1) System config the first 3 radio buttons should be on the left side with the right being on the right 2)Be on MODE 1 3)Ignition should be set at: 36 teeth per turn and 12 teeth per firing.
I had my
limits set at +5 and -12 that doesnt relaly matter tho.
4) Upper limit 5v lower 0v
NOW! My other mistake...make sure the SMT6 is hooked up to a source which allows for the unit to be ON!! when on the start position...aka i just hooked mine stright to battery fused and have it on all the time...doesnt take any power so i dont mind.
Usualy when you use the wiring diagrams out there the wire you tap into shutsdown when you are on the start poistion and the smt6 shutsdown and lets no signal pass...thus having a problem with starting
This doesnt happen with it T'd cause the crank signal is working No start...then get a 1k ohm resistor and put it to the yellow wire and the other side to the ground (make sure its hooke up right or else it wont work) Also trying putting a 4.7k resistor on the BLUE/BLACK wire on the smt6 and the other end to a 12v power source.
I shoul dhave a better wiring diagram with insturctions posted shortly.
Let me know how this goes
Any thoughts?
09-19-2005, 09:36 PM
#46
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by <96 Runner>
Hmmm, sounds like the SMT may be starved for power during cranking - which might explain why it won't start 90% of the time. On the other hand, I checked the voltage, even while cranking to the box and it seemed like enough. Maybe I should run some power to the unit directly from the battery.
Any thoughts?
Any thoughts?
Mine wouldn't work right until I put it to an always-hot circuit. There have been a couple of other folks here that found the same thing.I thought you were running it from an always-hot lead? DO IT DUDE!
Mighty nice of him to respond!
09-19-2005, 09:38 PM
#47
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Thanks Mark. I will let you know. Can the unit handle a fused 12V direct source? What AMP inline fuse should I use to be safe?
Last edited by rimpainter.com; 09-19-2005 at 09:40 PM.
09-21-2005, 02:55 PM
#48
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Hey guess nice to be talking to everyone again! (Midiwall being one of them )
I havent been around soo busy with getting my business going and still working with another company 40 hours a week also a recent breakin (with the loss of the SMT7 on my tacoma
) didnt help much...
Nice to see Niel here too he has been great help in getting things going with the SMT6 and recently 7. All of which ill pass on once my website is updated (doing so while here in WInnipeg on a business trip).
Anyway 96 Runner i would use something like a 5amp fuse for the smt6 as it doesnt draw much power at all to get going.
Ill be checking up on this thread later...got a meeting to goto.. take care and good luck guys!
)I havent been around soo busy with getting my business going and still working with another company 40 hours a week also a recent breakin (with the loss of the SMT7 on my tacoma
) didnt help much...Nice to see Niel here too he has been great help in getting things going with the SMT6 and recently 7. All of which ill pass on once my website is updated (doing so while here in WInnipeg on a business trip).
Anyway 96 Runner i would use something like a 5amp fuse for the smt6 as it doesnt draw much power at all to get going.
Ill be checking up on this thread later...got a meeting to goto.. take care and good luck guys!
09-21-2005, 07:50 PM
#49
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Anyone with a single coil engine.
Forget picking up the Cam sensors. That crap is a waste of time. Just intercept the IGT ignition dwell pulse going to the coil.
Obviously 6 teeth 1 teeth per turn for a v6, 4-1 for an i4.
(Leave the dwell time set to 0 on the SMT)
You have to use a 1000k ohm resistor to ground. The ECU & coil are very sensitive to resistance. Toyota coils have a tendency to burn out from overcharging.
Mine runs a ton better.
Forget picking up the Cam sensors. That crap is a waste of time. Just intercept the IGT ignition dwell pulse going to the coil.
Obviously 6 teeth 1 teeth per turn for a v6, 4-1 for an i4.
(Leave the dwell time set to 0 on the SMT)
You have to use a 1000k ohm resistor to ground. The ECU & coil are very sensitive to resistance. Toyota coils have a tendency to burn out from overcharging.
Mine runs a ton better.
09-21-2005, 09:48 PM
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Toysrme,
only prob with that is that we dont have a single coil in our engines...instead there are 3, wasted spark system...We have 3 IGT signals from the ecu as well and 1 NE+ signal instead hence the reason why taping into that works well...also people who have 99+ 5vz and have experienced problems with timing adjustment due to the cam sensor causing issues (check engine light) you can still use the smt6 to control the crank AND cam timing...there are 2 ignition inputs and outputs so the whole myth it wont work with the smt6 and newer taco/4runners is untrue I just remeber the whole debate a while back about this during the HUGE DR.Z smt thread...good ole days...
only prob with that is that we dont have a single coil in our engines...instead there are 3, wasted spark system...We have 3 IGT signals from the ecu as well and 1 NE+ signal instead hence the reason why taping into that works well...also people who have 99+ 5vz and have experienced problems with timing adjustment due to the cam sensor causing issues (check engine light) you can still use the smt6 to control the crank AND cam timing...there are 2 ignition inputs and outputs so the whole myth it wont work with the smt6 and newer taco/4runners is untrue
I just remeber the whole debate a while back about this during the HUGE DR.Z smt thread...good ole days...
09-22-2005, 04:20 AM
#51
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Originally Posted by <96 Runner>
Thanks Mark. I will let you know. Can the unit handle a fused 12V direct source? What AMP inline fuse should I use to be safe?
.I dont always suggest connecting to the battery direct, you normaly can find a decent ecu source with a bit of patience, but the unit draws about 100-150ma so a 250ma fuse would be safe.
09-22-2005, 04:22 AM
#52
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If you still dont come right get in touch with me at Info@perfectpower.com, my mail box is open all day you are likely to get a quicker responce there.
09-24-2005, 02:09 PM
#55
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Kick arse Christian!
Yeah, I know that you're "supposed" to be able to use the SMT on a switched source, but I just don't recommend it.
YAY! YAY! YAY!
Yeah, I know that you're "supposed" to be able to use the SMT on a switched source, but I just don't recommend it.
YAY! YAY! YAY!
09-24-2005, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Weasy2k
WOOT!!! Another SMT6 user with the 3.4L!
What was the fix the 12v source or the pickup?
What was the fix the 12v source or the pickup?
I am a bit scared about going out and tuning this thing a bit "blind." But, as long as I am not advancing timing or taking away fuel, I don't see how it could get any worse than it currently is. I plan to retard the timing quite a bit at 80%+ throttle position and 2000 ~ 2800 RPM. That seems to be my really bad "ping-point" right now. I am also going to add some fuel at the top of the rev range so I can pull the deckplate cover off - and because I am pretty sure it needs it. Hopefully I stay within the duty cycle of these stock injectors. I will be sure to make small changes at a time. I really need to get a BR3 so I can see what the AFR and timing are truly doing. For now though, I need to ditch the audible ping.
If you guys have any other suggestions, feel free to post 'em here. Thanks again!
Last edited by rimpainter.com; 09-24-2005 at 02:37 PM.
09-25-2005, 07:28 AM
#59
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Talk about a "retarded" map!
Here is where I am after a night of tuning. Ping has been suppressed to basically nothing (or I should say inaudible). Boy, I really had to crank it down in the 2000 to 3000 range! Let me know what you think, especially on the fuel map. I added some fuel to further suppress the ping in the "danger zone" and added some up top for safety.
Last edited by rimpainter.com; 09-25-2005 at 07:29 AM.
09-25-2005, 12:15 PM
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Good work...with the les fuel provided by the injectors you would have to retard alot of timing as you have done...also the difference between 5spd and auto is that people like me with an auto will never see some of the harsh low rpm high throttle conditions as the tranny will downshift before that comes close
Good work! Glad its working well for you as well
Good work! Glad its working well for you as well
