Hi all- I am getting a p0340 code, I just installed an FTC for testing, but I have an SMT5 also. (I like the on-the-fly and greater tunability of the SMT, though) Anyways, I think my problem is the wiring. Does anyone have a no BS 2001 auto wiring diagram they could send me? It seems like 1 of the wires is incorrect in the diagram that I have. TIA

 

Watch out... I'm thinking again.

So, I've been looking at the air-intake path on our engines wondering about restrictions. The first thing that's stands up and screams "HEY! LOOKIT ME!" would be the MAF/AFM.

In another thread here, there's a guy doing a turbo conversion on his ride, and he's using one of these in place of a MAF: http://www.mapecu.com/ (it's a MAF faker-outer that bases it's output on manifold pressure and optionally TPS). Doing that lets him remove the MAF from the intake path, thus removing it's restriction.

In looking at the box, it's pretty clear that it's working JUST like the SMT box in that it gives a way to cheat the fuel tables in the ECU.

So, I got to thinking... Won't the SMT let us do the same thing? What if we used the TPS as the analog deflection input, but still left the SMT output spliced into the MAF input on the ECU? Wouldn't that effectively let us remove the MAF from the air intake all together?


I'm thinking more on this..

 

hey mark,
im with you on that one, i dont know if the smt6 can simulate a maf/afm using another sensor, but i know the smt7 can. I just ordered one from johnny and should be getting it soon and installing it on the 2uzfe, so ill keep you updated, and please keep me updated on your progress as well, you are always a great resource..

-doug

 

TO much thought

If you want ot use the smt6 to remove the afm/maf this is how you do it.

A) Take 2 weeks off work....

B) Add a MAP sensor to the SMT6 to the AMP in and the MAF sensor to the TPS spot (like you already do).

C) Record the MAP & MAF voltage at EVERY cell point in the smt6 that is used.

D) Now cut the MAF input and put the MAP sensor in the TPS spot. Fire up the truck and change the fueling numbers till the output voltage was that of which the MAF put out when it was hooked up.

E) The ecu just needs a voltage to run correctly so by using the smt6 you are translating the MAP's voltge signal to something usable to the ecu.

F) Wire up a IAT sensor to the SMT6 so you can get Air Temp compensation, but leave the MAF plugged in so the ecu sees CLOSE to the intake air temp so you are getting.

WEEEEE The smt7 does this automatically for you...

 

Oh yea Blink the SMT7 left today...same tracking number as i had before. Lets hope they dont screw this up

 

You and your dern temp and pressure compensation. dang.

So what's the price of a -7 Johnny?

 

Well as of a recent adjustment yesterday Aug 3rd the SMT7 is going for $600usd shipped
Only yotatech users so let me know if you are Or else its a bit more ($700)

 

Okay, so I'm looking at the software now...

I'll have to try loading this up on the laptop I use for tuning and see how it runs. It looks a bit bulky. I actually use the DOS software with the -5 'cause it's sooooooo quick to get around in.


Thanks Johnny... (argh... MORE money to find!)

 

its only money....

 

Good point, and with this double sided color copier next to me... You don't mind if the cash I send you is a bit off in color do you?


So, I have issues with the -7 software, can you get rid of that stoopid fade up effect on the child Windows? argh. They REALLY need someone down there that can write a user interface.

If it makes you grin at all, I'm also searching through eBay looking for a new laptop to run this. Man, this would be the THIRD laptop I've bought in a bit more than two weeks. Good thing this one would be cheap.

ARGH

 

lol thats cdn funds should be fine hehe

Thats funny because my AMD 1800+ works great

 

Yeah, I bet it does... Poo-Head. Try tuning in Windows on this:

http://www.csd.toshiba.com/cgi-bin/t...30&soid=112231

 

classic!

 

I have a couple issues after installing 308cc injectors and I am wondering if you guys can offer some advice.

1. P0172 Bank 1 Too Rich has been popping up a lot lately. This started right after I put in the injectors. What I don't understand is the analog fuel trim setting in the SMT software. In order for the engine to idle correctly, I have to go to a positive number on the scale. For example, I have the trim set around 6. What does this number mean? What am I doing when I adjust it besides make the idle better?

2. I cannot take fuel out of the fuel map (use negative numbers). Why not? I would like to remove some fuel in the low rpm/throttle position areas of the map, but for some reason the software won't let me. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

1) is this in the global settings (im working off the top of my head right now)?


2) You cant take fuel out....it doesnt let you? That should not happen it should let you remove fuel!

Ill be back in 15min when i get back home and get my laptop fired up to see the software (havent tuned smt6 in a while!)

 

Correct. Thanks for the help!

 

YOu got some wiring wrong dude....
You should be able to have negatives...


Here is how i set my smt6 up when my s/c worked (post thread on that in a sec)

The fuel zero calibration affects the entire analog map (basically call it the BASE map)
I set that in the negatives so it would start pulling fuel then i would use + #'s in the analog map to tune the rest. Mine was -6 fuel trim.

Does it let you insert -'s in the ignition map?

 

Yes, it lets me insert -'s in the ignition map. It's just the injection map that won't let me. Should I go to a - number in the analog fuel trim adjustment GUI, then add some positive numbers in each square of the injection matrix so it will idle and run properly?

Everything else appears to be functioning properly in the SMT software; it's just the negative # "problem" in the injection table that I am curious about.

 

Hey Christian,

Putting the Trim negative and usign the matrix to provide positive numbers is what I did, If you have a scan tool, turn on the truck and check out the short term fuel trim and adust it via the global settings until its close to zero and work off of it from there.

 

Ill follow up and agree with Doug,
Yes do that for now its what i did as well and ill get to the bottom of this and see what perfect power says. I finalyl got a hold of them again

So doug ill get your problems sorted out too...you still cant read RPM right? if so use the BI POLAR outputs for ignition vs the regular ones.