I have read plenty about the panhard bar needing to be extended after doing a lift to center the axle. I understand the concept and necessity, but wondered how much the panhard actually had to be adjusted to work right. It seems like it would not extend that much, but I could be wrong. Anyone mind posting some stock versus lift measurements?

 

im sure someone has some hard numbers somewhere, but if you put a little geometry into it, you can figure it out for yourself.

just measure (before your lift) the horizontal distance (meaning measure along the axle, perfectly horizontally) between where it attaches on the axle and where it attaches on the frame. you want to keep that number the same. then measure the vertical distance between the axle and where it attaches to the frame. that number will change, so currently the length of your panhard bar is sqrt(horizontal^2 + vert^2) (where sqrt means square root). then add the lift amount to the vertical distance and your new panhard length should be sqrt(horizontal^2 + (vert+lift)^2) and there you have it.

im sure itd be easier if someone just posted some numbers...

 

A squared + B squared = C squared

 

^^^^ This should be all you need.

 

Not sure if this is an accurate way of measuring but when I installed my rear coils and shocks I unbolted the panhard rod at one end to facilitate getting the longer coils in place. Once the coils and springs were on and I went to rebolt the panhard rod it had shifted about 1/4 inch - so the holes didn't line up. So that would be my guess if I was to extend the bar it would need to be 1/4".

John

 

Steve S. did the math and gives a handy table of trac length vs. height if you purchase his adjustable bar. (so yes someone has done the math, and I'd wager tested suggested length vs. lift height. but that is just a guess based on my view of the small trac bar lenth increments (and thinking about how difficult it would be to accurately measure width and height on the installed vehicle down to a tenth of an inch)

 

Thanks for all the answers guys. I did the A^2+B^2=C^2 and it was minimal. That was the reason for my question. I just wanted to make sure there wasn't something I was missing in the calculations that would make it fluctuate from basic geometry. Thanks again, and if anyone has hard numbers, post em up.

 

Thanks Vermejo, that is exactly what I was looking for. It still seems incredibly small, but definitely worth fixing to keep the suspension geometry basically the same as stock.Thanks to all for the help.

 

I kinda remember reading somewhere on here a while back that for a minor lift (2.5 inches or less) you won't need the panhard extension. Is this true?

 

That seems crazy. 1/16" for my 2" lift, is that even worth doing?

 

i dont know the vertical distance between your panhard mount on the axle and the panhard mount on the frame, but if its small say 5" stock, then making that 7" after the lift would shift your axle to the panhard side by ~.32 inches (if you kept stock length), if its more drastic like 10" before and 12" after, it would shift your axle by ~.62" and if its as high as 15" before and 17" after, then it would shift your axle by ~.95" or close to 1". Just for reference, 20" stock and 22" after stock would mean an axle shift of ~1.37", which is a lot in terms of your axle being shifted...

 

Digging up an old thread because I have been sourcing parts for my lift based off the 1.2 Sonoran Steel setup and ran into the panhard bar conundrum.

I know Steve will/may chime in saying that the adjustible panhard bar is pretty much mandatory, but I would like to hear from folks who have done a 2-3.5" lift and used the standard bar.

What kind of troubles have you run into? Any weird suspension stuff going on in certain situations?

 

I have 4in of lift in the rear with the stock bar no adjustments and it rides fine...

 

You'll probably be fine.

The problem with bars that are too short will naturally lead to decreased articulation, there is much more tension on a shorter bar under axle articulation.

I ran a stock bar with 6" of lift, and I don't recommend it. I then got a long, long bar from Steve, and it was TOO long and would get horrible rubbing from the drive shaft hitting the gas tank, and wheels hitting the fenders.

On the other side of the coin, you may have rubbing on due to a bar thats too short (fenders, not gas tank), but, I haven't seen anyone having issues with that.

Start off without one, and if you decide you need one later, just get it.

 

Roger that. It's not mission critical unless you have a real reason to get one.

 

TRIANGULATED 4-LINK and Forget the PAN HARD BAR--

Disclaimer--there may or may not be extensive fab work needed to fit said aforementioned suspension set up......

I am in the process and will let ya'll know when it is done. so far i had to have a Fuel cell fabbed and......a long list of other things i need done. All in all--about 2k to get it all done.....

 

same with the extended brake line. I don't have a longer one once again with 4in of rear lift and when I flex out there is plenty of slack...

 

Even better 202020!!! I like hearing this news! What about the E-Brake cable?

hross...I wish I had the time and $ do a 4-link. This is a DD though. I always thought 3-links were best for drag cars. Oh wait, we don't have a torque arm, do we?

 

Wait, wait wait... you're going to dump all that money in the rear and keep your IFS?! My rear flexes as good as my buddies trail only rigs as it is!

 

YEP--keeping the IFS and after i am done with the rear i am going to try and figure out how to put an 8" IFS pumpkin under the front--punch and or get new axle drive flanges made and probably long arm the whole set up--maybe go to 37's--and flatten the belly. I know people dont like IFS--but I do because i dont just do Rock

Sometimes it is nice to not be married---no kids--Its cheaper just to buy dinner, go on dates, and get a little "piece and quite".