95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

Paddle shift 4runner project

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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 09:04 AM
  #81  
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From: Chico Republic, NOR*CAL
Originally Posted by Clownmeat
It's not a kickdown cable, it's a throttle pressure cable. If you disconnect it the shifts would slip even more until you smoked the trans. You have to pull it out all the way and lock it down. This makes the trans think you have the throttle pedal mashed to the floor so it raises the line pressure accordingly.
AHA! Glad I asked so I now see where you have it locked down in the picture. So with it locked down I will experience a sharper shift, as if I were at WOT. And the reason it makes no difference at WOT, is because it's already sharp with the normally high line pressure WOT?
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 09:06 AM
  #82  
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From: DFW TEXAS BABY!
Originally Posted by yotasavg
AHA! Glad I asked so I now see where you have it locked down in the picture. So with it locked down I will experience a sharper shift, as if I were at WOT. And the reason it makes no difference at WOT, is because it's already sharp with the normally high line pressure WOT?
Yep, exactly.

My valve body mod I just had done makes the shifts even sharper, I really like it but want them sharper then they are right now so the shop is going to work it over a little more to sharpen it up a little more. Feels SO much nicer with the positive shifts even just driving around.
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 09:10 AM
  #83  
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Awesome thanks Clown and TA! (unhijack)

back to 3rd gen awesomeness...
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 03:55 PM
  #84  
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Had some time today to get the left paddle in and built a harness for both and wired into the clock spring.




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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 03:56 PM
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Stupid youtube.

Last edited by Clownmeat; Dec 8, 2011 at 04:56 PM.
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 03:58 PM
  #86  
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From: DFW TEXAS BABY!
Looks good! A tip for making that hole you cut look a little better is to use a soldering iron to melt the edges. Done right it will look almost like a factory edge.
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 04:08 PM
  #87  
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looks great. cant wait too see it done. now will this allow more/better engine braking since you can hold it in gear but i guess its the lock up that does it
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 04:11 PM
  #88  
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From: DFW TEXAS BABY!
Originally Posted by ToyoTech559
looks great. cant wait too see it done. now will this allow more/better engine braking since you can hold it in gear but i guess its the lock up that does it
You can still engine brake without the lockup but I have never been a fan of engine breaking, puts too much stress on the rod bolts which are already a weak link in these motors.
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Texas_Ace
You can still engine brake without the lockup but I have never been a fan of engine breaking, puts too much stress on the rod bolts which are already a weak link in these motors.
i just want engine braking similar or close to what a stick shift would be on an auto. when im going down a mountain with it in 4 low and 1st gear. i have to ride the brakes to keep the engine from taking off. maybe regearing will help.

Last edited by ToyoTech559; Dec 8, 2011 at 04:23 PM.
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 04:17 PM
  #90  
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From: DFW TEXAS BABY!
You can engine brake, I just don't like it. Just Personal preference.
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 04:57 PM
  #91  
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Uxo...yer_detailpage
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 08:18 AM
  #92  
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From: Chico Republic, NOR*CAL
that must be very exciting for you!
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 10:45 AM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by yotasavg
that must be very exciting for you!
It has been a fun and relatively cheap project. It might be exciting when I actually get to use the paddles to shift it.
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 11:01 AM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by Clownmeat
It has been a ... relatively cheap project.
so let's see:

$20 arduino
$40 (???-- no clue, just a guess) paddles
$20 relays/components
$10 misc
+________
~$100 for paddle shifters? not too bad... that's like a $500 factory option, right?

Last edited by irab88; Dec 9, 2011 at 11:02 AM.
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 11:26 AM
  #95  
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Pretty close, somewhere around $60 at the moment. But that's just parts, not time, and time is money.

Last edited by Clownmeat; Dec 9, 2011 at 11:28 AM.
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 11:28 AM
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sweet. can't wait to see the full thing in operation


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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 11:36 AM
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Stop it...you're making me reconsider my R150F swap.
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 02:05 PM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by BMcEL
Stop it...you're making me reconsider my R150F swap.
Can't stop now, haven't even got to the fun part yet.
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 03:09 PM
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Might be changing things a bit as far as relays go.
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 05:48 PM
  #100  
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From: DFW TEXAS BABY!
Originally Posted by Clownmeat
Might be changing things a bit as far as relays go.
Are you going to use the big automotive relays or the small circuit board mounted ones?
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