So using a freeware program called Eagle you can plan out the entire circuit then place all the components on a virtual board and it will auto-route everything for you. So then that file can just be emailed to the guy with the CNC machine to be cut out, then I have my own pretty PCB.

So it wont look like this.



More like this.

 

Ok so the cutoff would be a fairly easy mod I think. On the 3rd gen 4runners there is a Black/red wire that sends power to all injectors, the coils, and the ignitor. Tap into that wire at the right spot and hook it up through a relay on the normally connected pin. Wire up the rest of the relay. Bare the 2 wires going to the shift solenoids (pink ltblu and ltblu white according to wiring diagram) and splice a wire into each. Run those 2 wires to the inputs on an arduino (after going through some sort of protection device so you don't fry the arduino) Then write a code for the arduino that tells it to send power to the relay for half a second any time there is a change with either of the 2 solenoids.

 

Yep, that was my thinking. You can just cut spark, in fact that would give a bit of an anti-lag feel to it to keep the turbo spooled. I know it is well within reason to do it and would not be hard to add to a setup like CM's. Just not enough of an electrical engineer to really try it myself.

With a setup like that though, combined with a valve body mod, you could easily allow the transmission to last at way higher then normal power levels. The supra guys would jump all over a setup like that I bet, unless they already having something, not sure.

The shift is what kills the tranny for 100% sure. Cut power between shifts and the tranny should easily be able to hold 500whp without a problem (with a valve body). I bet the truck would be faster with power cut between shifts as well since that would speed up the shifts to at least 2x as fast.

If CM's setup could be adapter to also take care of this aspect, I would so get me one for sure. It would be worth it for the savings in transmission rebuilds at the least.

 

Id think with CMs setup it would actually work more efficiently... Think about it. Just splicing in: Ecm tells trans to shift then while shifting the arduino notices its happening and cuts spark. With the paddle shift setup: You click paddle -> arduino notices you clicked a paddle -> arduino cuts spark -> arduino tells trans to shift -> arduino ends spark cut a fraction of a second later

 

Right, thats what I am saying, if that feature could be added then it would be perfect. Although I would also want it to be able to cut spark when in automatic mode as well. I won't be removing the cruise switch on my truck so not sure where/if I would mount paddles on the column so most of the time it would be in auto mode I have a feeling.

The only other thing that would need to be addressed is a WOT switch or a 0-5v input so that it only cuts spark under WOT. No need for it while just driving around, would get a little old when just driving.

 

No need for the switch... the arduino has no prob reading the refrence from the tps. Should just be able to splice right in and run a wire. That way you could also set it to work at like anything over 80% throttle. The way I stated before should work for auto mode. I was just sayin there is a chance it wouldn't be quite as effective. Idk its just something that would have to be tried. Stuff like that is hard to get right without testing. I was just saying I'm 99% sure it would work in paddle shift mode and something like 75% sure it will work in auto. Lol

 

Yeah, I see what you are saying. It is nothing that hard to do for sure, just a matter of getting the right hardware and code setup.

Then once it is setup you just need to dial in the settings to get it just right, would take some trial and error to get the spark cut time just right along with the other factors. But nothing a little tuning could not easily fix.

 

In your 4runner's case anything over 20% throttle... lol jk but really I watched your vids and your yota is a beast

 

LOL, on the stock valve body you are almost right. With the modded valve body it shifts good up to around ~60% throttle then it could use a little help.

It will need a lot more help when I get the turbo installed. I would like to break the stock block power record. Which near as I can tell is in the high 300's.

 

You need a build thread we can jump over to... I feel like we are takin over this one lol

 

I have a few. The shifting fits better here though since thats what he is working on.

 

Ok we can keep it here... Whos gonna mod your valvebody? and are you gonna build up the internals of the transmission?

 

LOL, pretty sure my build thread is still on the first page of the 3rd gen section. I actually just had my transmission built and the valve body done, twice actually lol. See the thread for all the details.

Trying to sell a 96 IPT valve body.

 

Ok so you had it built by IPT? What did they rate it at? Also, why don't you just go ahead and do the manual conversion?

 

Without getting into a lot of details, basically I went through 2 transmissions. This is the IPT valve body that I never got to use.

The one in my truck was done by the local shop that built the transmission.

I didn't do the manual swap due to cost and difficulty. Only way I would try it is if you have access to a whole manual truck, preferably of the same year. Otherwise you will spend a LOT of time tracking down parts for the swap.

Total cost on the swap from my math was $1500+ unless you got a heck of a deal on a manual truck which I have been trying to find with no luck for a long time. Not to mention the months and months of searching for parts to get everything you need and then still most likely be missing parts. In my case I would be better off selling my truck and just buying a manual truck.

Here is a thread on my transmission: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/t...runner-243833/

And here is my build thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/t...-power-222044/

 

So I was thinking I might use the A/T P warning light (because I'm not daft enough to need it) for my torque converter lockup indicator since it's already there and up in your face so you don't leave it on and kill it at a stoplight, or maybe not I don't know yet.

 

Can this system input an RPM signal? If so I would think the smartest move would be to have it automatically unlock the convert once RPM's drop below ~1500.

 

I'm sure you could make it do just about anything. I've seen them unlock with the brake switch or under 20mph whatever you want. For now mine will just be on a push on/off switch maybe thumb button to see how it will react.

 

the auto cut off would be good, maybe if it see the throttle closed and the brake pedal depressed and rpm drops to 800rpm. them you could still engine brake for down hill decent. clownmeat you should off this for sale or maybe a final build diagram for self build.

 

There has been lots of good ideas here. Downshift rpm fail safe, engine cut at upshift, converter lockup control, and more. If all these ideas where to be incorporated it would never get done though. It could be improved more and more until it was HAL or Deep Blue.

So the original idea still stands just to get it to shift through four gears via paddles, which by itself is a long daunting task.

If someone else wants to attempt it I would love to see it. Starting from scratch is hard when there is nothing to base your initial plan from.