vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

My old motor bent of rod because of misfires in boost. Misfires had been getting worse last couple months with old motor. After putting in my junkyard motor it won't start. It hits a lick every now and then but doesn't really make a great effort to start. I finally got a p1300 code and have been working my way through troubleshooting. I'm following steps from a shop manual in this thread https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...l#post50692386

Also read http://www.parksoffroad.com/tacomamo...de/cip1300.pdf which states the same thing in a more followable flow chart.

I have spark at the plug, so I check voltage at IGF terminal on ECU (ignitor harness unplugged and key on) with a body ground and I get voltage of 4.97. Based on this it says replace ignitor. I swapped ignitors with my brother's and still no go.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Had you wired anything different on the ECM that might be causing problems in the engine you installed??

I am guessing that you swapped your harness onto this engine.

Did your igniter work in the other engine that would tell you if it was good.

Bent pin poor connection?? Corrosion unseen by the eye looks just fine and tests good with the meter probe but does not work when plugged together.

How long did it sit with connectors exposed to the air??

The times I had that code it turned out it was the ECM had got wet went through three till I got that figured out.

Your issue seems some what like mine the ECM does not see the signal from the igniter even though it is working like it should.

Engine starts ECM shuts off the fuel.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Nothing has changed. It ran fine before I swapped motors. Sitting for 2 months shouldn't make an ECU go bad. The engine bay connectors were laying loose for 2 months covered, but they all look great. The crank sits on 0* tdc #1, cams are spot on. Ignitor is within spec. I swapped on the throttle body because the junkyard motor was a TBW type. Spark plugs were soaked with gas. I removed them this morning to let cylinders dry out. I will replace with new spark plugs and see what happens. I've also been seeing that p1300 can be caused by plugged injectors. See as how the cylinders and plugs are all soaked, doubt it, unless they are stuck open. Maybe I can stethoscope them. Here's a video:

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

You had this junk yard engine running before??

Forget to plug something together

If it was running has to be a poor connection poor ground ??

It is not running long enough for any other codes to trip.

Did you have lots of rain these last two months.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

I replaced the spark plugs. I checked the plug wire order. No good. This is the junkyward motor and has not been started by me. The fluids were all great and odometer showed 150k with recipts in glove box. I think it was taken care of?? I'm just lost. I might buy an Ebay ECU, my brother's 99 didn't fit.

Should I swap injectors off my old motor?

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

I put a timing light on each wire, and it fires intermittently. It'll fire steady for a few beats and then skip out for a few seconds, then hit another lick. Clues to the puzzle... So now I am going back to the FSM troubleshooting and going to follow the "not firing" flowchart. Before I was following the "is firing" flowchart.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

It is always good to have a spare ECM.

You swapped over all your electronics from the bent rod engine??

Coil packs, cam and crank sensors MAF sensor, etc

Then the ECM and all the goodies are a matched set.

So you more or less just installed a non started long block??

Or you just plugged the engine harness into the ECM maybe swapped to the ECM that came with this non starting engine??

These engines make me wish for the simple engines of my misguided youth

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

I wish I was just a stupid mistake. I swapped over all my electronics to the "new" motor (throttle body/cam/crank/MAF. Coil packs are from the newer motor. I did temporarily swap in my old coil packs to check. Also swapped a known good ignitor. I used my existing harness and ECU. I haven't backprobed the 3 igt wires, but the probability of all 3 of them being compromised is slim. One, yeah. Three, doubt it. I am going to try to get a ECU at the pick n pull today.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Any luck??

Funny how on hard questions most everyone is so quiet!!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Not sure where you are at in North Central Arkansas, I am not far from there, but have a code scanner you could use it if close to where I live.

I have seen twice in the past that getting a spark at the plug will not fire a motor. First time I experienced it, I was sure that if there was spark that it should fire off. Not always, guess it can be too weak of a spark. Dont know the 3.4 but cant see all 3 coils being bad. Other then grounds, is there something else they all share in the coil area?

ECU seem to be rock solid in these trucks and sitting wont hurt them. Since you know your old injectors were firing I would use them. I have seen injectors sit and due to the poor quality gas I have seen them gum up. I havent tested 3.4 injectors but using the following tool below works for me. You can use just a straight wire and small connectors to test your injectors. With some cleaner and one to two second touches of the battery will tell you if your injectors are operating.

Copied...
To clean and test an injector, I use a syringe, rubber hose, a 9 volt battery and some wiring. You can run just straight wire but another set of hands is useful. Even with my contraption, I still have to use a vise to hold the injector and one to hold the syringe and with 1 or 2 second touches of the battery to open the injector. You can connect the rubber hose at each end of the injector to flush both ways. Normally I use carb or injector cleaner but have used these in the past for a flushing agent.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Well I just wasted $40 at the junkyard on an ECU. "New" junkyard ECU and starting symptoms are exactly the same. My gut said it wouldn't work, but it was the next logical thing to do in diagnosing the p1300 according to FSM. It just nearly wants to run. I can get it to hit a few times. I have a cheap obdII scanner that pulls codes. I don't have anything that pulls live data or anything. Thing that gets me is that maybe the induction on my timing light isn't that good, but it won't hit consistently. It'll spark a few times and then skip a few revolutions. It acts like the plug wires on on wrong or something.

Tonight I'll swap injectos...

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Just swapped in my old injectors and coil packs. No change.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Stupid question but does there actually have to be coolant/water in it to start/run? I've not put any in.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Mine started with out any with my swap. Been following this hope you get it figured out

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

You do Have the air intake hooked up??

That the MAF sensor is seeing the incoming air to the engine so it sends the signal to the ECM.

Not sure what the coolant temp sensor reads if it is dry. If that might impact the engine starting.

Have you looked at the EFI relay if that is dropping out it can cause a no start issue

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

The water sensor that is located by the thermostat housing on the front of the engine does have a dramatic effect on how it starts. I was talking to Jason to help him locate that sensor and he can give you more information on it. It made a major improvement on getting it to working. He says that sensor is connected to the computer. Jason https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f200...ckster-239786/ can give you more information on that, PM him and I am sure he would be glad to help. I was on the phone with him when he got it working and I could hear it start immediately, so I would say yes for water in the system.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Thanks guys. I have worked until 2am for the last 4 or 5 nights trying to figure this out. I've gone through every FSM test I can find. Ohm'd out every wire between the ignitor and ECU, and coil packs to ignitor. I've got appropriate voltages everywhere. I've cleaned up and organized my wiring harness adapter. I've swapped every part except the cam and crank sensors. They ohm out fine. Wonder if I have water in my gas. I drilled a hole in my gas can and run it vented. Maybe enough water has condensed in the tank over the winter?

I just told my wife I couldn't physically or emotionally handle another night of working on it. I was gonna quit- But now I've gotta go put water in it. Hey this might be the push I need to go full standalone

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Adding water didn't help.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Any one close that that has any knowledge with these engines sometimes a second set of eyes does wonders.

Just a little far or I would come help .

Trust me I know how frustrating this gets.

I have had all to many electrical problems that test fine with the meter but just don`t work when plugged together.

Best of luck!!

J2F42C

Make sure the EFI main relay is good.