P0330 Everyone's Favorite Code
12-02-2017, 04:09 PM
#1
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P0330 Everyone's Favorite Code
alright everyone I'm quite new to the sie, as by my post count.. I've been having an issue with the infamous P0330 (Knock Sensor 1 Bank 2 Circuit Malfunction)
things I've already tried to no avail:
replace knock sensor wiring harness: it was definitely trashed, but it did not fix the problem.
test both knock sensors: both knock sensors registered the same voltage when tested.
I've read up on almost everything posted, on every website possible, and I can not find a solution...
it is having timing problems, the usual power loss, "coughing" or "sputtering" if you will, but here's the part that's tripping me out...
when I took everything apart to diagnose the knock sensors and the wiring harness, the problem seemed to fix itself. that is, until two days later while driving down the freeway, the truck seemed to start slowly falling back into it's same sputter-y rhythm.
it's a dog at all RPM, but particularly between 2K and 3K RPM. and likes to really cut out like it's losing a cylinder around 3K RPM, especially under heavier load (like going 65 on the freeway and trying to push on the accelerator to change lanes
everything I have read makes diagnosing this problem seem like a witch-hunt.
why is it only bank 2?
why is this the only code showing up?
why don't I get a catalytic converter code even though mine has been removed, but this code keeps rearing it's ugly head?
possible solutions I've come across:
correct a fuel system too lean scenario -- the vehicle being too lean constantly could trigger this code.
I feel like this is the way to start, because it is only one bank, and it seemed to have the problem BEFORE the code triggers (using a cheap scanner to clear the fault code from the local parts store)
fuel pressure regulator? would that cause one bank to run more lean than the other? are both banks running lean but only bank 2 is picking it up?
egr valve (which my truck might not have? California emissions, but the "location" I have searched online does not wield any results)
coolant system malfunction -- I have no coolant leaks, I have no overheating problems, the truck runs at the same temperature as when I bought it 2 years ago..
replace both knock sensors -- this seems the less likely solution, as from what I've read, this seems like everyone's first guess, and 99$ of the time has no effect on the code's reoccurrence (and they have already both tested good)
replace wiring harness: already replaced knock sensor wiring harness.
bad ECM: everything else on the truck runs flawless, and to my understanding a failing pcm throws way more codes and problems than one reoccurring knock sensor code.
alright well I just wrote a novel, I thank anyone who read it, or skimmed through, and I most definitely thank anyone who shares any information on the subject!
things I've already tried to no avail:
replace knock sensor wiring harness: it was definitely trashed, but it did not fix the problem.
test both knock sensors: both knock sensors registered the same voltage when tested.
I've read up on almost everything posted, on every website possible, and I can not find a solution...
it is having timing problems, the usual power loss, "coughing" or "sputtering" if you will, but here's the part that's tripping me out...
when I took everything apart to diagnose the knock sensors and the wiring harness, the problem seemed to fix itself. that is, until two days later while driving down the freeway, the truck seemed to start slowly falling back into it's same sputter-y rhythm.
it's a dog at all RPM, but particularly between 2K and 3K RPM. and likes to really cut out like it's losing a cylinder around 3K RPM, especially under heavier load (like going 65 on the freeway and trying to push on the accelerator to change lanes
everything I have read makes diagnosing this problem seem like a witch-hunt.
why is it only bank 2?
why is this the only code showing up?
why don't I get a catalytic converter code even though mine has been removed, but this code keeps rearing it's ugly head?
possible solutions I've come across:
correct a fuel system too lean scenario -- the vehicle being too lean constantly could trigger this code.
I feel like this is the way to start, because it is only one bank, and it seemed to have the problem BEFORE the code triggers (using a cheap scanner to clear the fault code from the local parts store)
fuel pressure regulator? would that cause one bank to run more lean than the other? are both banks running lean but only bank 2 is picking it up?
egr valve (which my truck might not have? California emissions, but the "location" I have searched online does not wield any results)
coolant system malfunction -- I have no coolant leaks, I have no overheating problems, the truck runs at the same temperature as when I bought it 2 years ago..
replace both knock sensors -- this seems the less likely solution, as from what I've read, this seems like everyone's first guess, and 99$ of the time has no effect on the code's reoccurrence (and they have already both tested good)
replace wiring harness: already replaced knock sensor wiring harness.
bad ECM: everything else on the truck runs flawless, and to my understanding a failing pcm throws way more codes and problems than one reoccurring knock sensor code.
alright well I just wrote a novel, I thank anyone who read it, or skimmed through, and I most definitely thank anyone who shares any information on the subject!
12-02-2017, 10:33 PM
#2
Registered User
After doing a quick google read on that code, its been said that while bench testing might yield nothing bad in particular, testing it while under load, similar to the rpms that you experience the symptoms, might be a more trustworthy confirmation. Bank 2 if I got it correct means its the side with cylinders 2, 4 and 6...
So I wouldn't quite be convinced the knock sensor is off the hook...it might be intermittent in function, but only while under load, be on its way out...or there's a break in the circuitry somewhere. Can check for continuity of the wiring involved. A multimeter is helpful.
Pretty sure you'll get some help from here. Plenty of knowledgeable folks here.
So I wouldn't quite be convinced the knock sensor is off the hook...it might be intermittent in function, but only while under load, be on its way out...or there's a break in the circuitry somewhere. Can check for continuity of the wiring involved. A multimeter is helpful.
Pretty sure you'll get some help from here. Plenty of knowledgeable folks here.
Last edited by 75w90mantraN; 12-02-2017 at 10:37 PM.
