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Old 06-28-2016, 05:29 PM
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P0302

'99 3.4L 4Runner 101k

I have a P0302 code and a miss when hot. I replaced the plugs and wires and didn't solve it. I moved the coil from the front to the rear and the miss didn't go with it.

Any Suggestions?

Last edited by fierohink; 06-28-2016 at 05:31 PM.
Old 06-28-2016, 05:39 PM
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Compression test
Old 06-29-2016, 05:33 AM
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I haven't gotten it into the garage for a compression test, but this morning cold it starts up and runs like a champ with no miss.

So what heat related would there be? Sticking valve? It doesn't make and ticking when it's missing like s loud valve. Coil? I moved the coil and the miss didn't go with it. A bad spark plug? They're brand new but I guess anything is possible.
Old 06-30-2016, 07:43 AM
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Error Code: P0302
Description:
Cylinder 2 - Misfire Detected
Possible Cause:
Spark plugs gaps too wide.
Wrong heat range numbers of the spark plugs.
Wiring.
Ignition system.
Fuel injectors.
Fuel pressure.
Running out of fuel.
EVAP canister purge valve.
Evaporative emission system.
Low compression.
Base engine problems.
Engine control module (ECM).

You have dual tipped electrode NGK or Denso plugs, right?
Age of plug wires?
Age of fuel filter?
Old 06-30-2016, 10:48 AM
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Brand new plugs and wires. Yes dual electrode plugs. NGK BKR5EKB-11 tried a different plug in the #2 cylinder.

No miss from cold through operating temp. I drove it this AM for an hour to work. If/when I restart it after an hour or so I have a miss. Wait 4 hours until cool, no miss.

Last edited by fierohink; 06-30-2016 at 10:49 AM.
Old 06-30-2016, 11:05 AM
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Can you possibly swap the wire from 2 and 4? I don't recall if there's enough length to do that. See if the code follows the wire. Inspect the boot on 2 really good make sure there's no arcing and grey burnt spots. Then swap the 2 and 4 injectors and see if the code follows.
Old 06-30-2016, 02:18 PM
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#2 should be passenger front closest to the rad, no?
Old 06-30-2016, 02:29 PM
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No, passenger front closest to rad is the #1, #2 is front driver side.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/attach...s-zcruiser.jpg

Last edited by rworegon; 06-30-2016 at 02:34 PM.
Old 06-30-2016, 02:29 PM
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It may be I can't keep them straight. In which case inspect the coil boot. I'll bet you find a burnt spot where it's arcing.
Old 06-30-2016, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by rworegon
No, passenger front closest to rad is the #1, #2 is front driver side.


http://www.toyota-4runner.org/attach...s-zcruiser.jpg
Thx for the assist I'm on mobile.
Old 06-30-2016, 03:00 PM
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Woah. Screw me. I had it mixed up. This changes a lot. I'll be back after I move some parts around.
Old 06-30-2016, 03:41 PM
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Okay so I replaced the real #2 plug, swapped #2 and #4 wires, and found the ground bolt on the intake runner just above #2 loose and tightened it up.

No hesitation or miss and it is definitely hot from driving home from work. I won't call it fixed until I drive it a few more days.

Thanks for pointing out my left from my right😜
Old 07-01-2016, 09:03 AM
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Hope it continues to behave nicely.
Old 07-02-2016, 03:06 AM
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That diagram has proved to be the salvation of many a thread.
Old 07-02-2016, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by TheDurk
That diagram has proved to be the salvation of many a thread.
No kidding, even after many wire and plug changes I still seem to get a mental block...
Old 07-03-2016, 03:11 PM
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Well it's better but not fixed.

150 miles into a trip to my in laws and I get a blinking CEL under load trying to pass and and moderate miss at idle. No constant light though and silly me I left my scanner at home.

Seriously wth?!? 200 miles since I replaced the plug and it's back.
Old 07-03-2016, 03:43 PM
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Blinking cel when it's missing means something specific I can't recall. . Last time I saw a blinking cel I had a crank pulley that wasn't torqued down came out a little and caused the timing ring to not be read by the crank position sensor. Also wouldn't rev over say 3000rpm. Never threw a code.

Did you inspect those wires realllllly good? Kinda sounding like a grounded spark issue too
Old 07-04-2016, 01:41 PM
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I agree everything is pointing to bad spark or a bad coil. Why the miss doesn't move when I move around coils or plug wires is baffling me. Or why can I have 120+ miles of good driving before the problem appears only to disappear the next morning. If it was a heat soaked ignition part it should have moved.

Could crank sensor have a heat soak issue?
Old 07-04-2016, 02:55 PM
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Also would a bad/shorting injector throw the same miss fire code or would it have a different obd code?
Old 07-04-2016, 03:20 PM
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My bad crank threw a p300 which was a general misfire it wasn't just in one cylinder so I wouldn't think that's too likely. Injector is about all you have left. It takes about 30 mins to get down to the injectors. Swap a couple and see what happens. Bad coil will have misfires on two cylinders and I've personally never seen a coil go bad they are rock solid.


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