P0115 - ECT Sensor
10-02-2018, 02:16 PM
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P0115 - ECT Sensor
Anyone have experience replacing one of these? I was wondering if you guys could help. Runner has a overheating problem with this code.
10-03-2018, 12:17 PM
#2
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I have yet to, but from what I know, its either the sensor, the wiring involved before it, or the PCM. The latter is doubtful unless you got other issues going on.
What else can you provide as far as background to your case?
What else can you provide as far as background to your case?
10-04-2018, 05:50 AM
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Well I replaced the ECT and it is still showing the same code, and overheating.
Basically 2 days ago I was driving home from work and my radiator exploded. No big deal. I threw in a new radiator, gave it a flush, burped the system and refilled with coolant. Same problem. Code says p0115 AND my truck starts overheating at idle. My heater is also blowing cold air. Also my coolant overflow tank has steam coming out of it. I checked to make sure my thermostat is working properly and it was. Basically it sounds like a waterpump because coolant isnt getting to the engine, but I just replaced the water pump along with the timing belt (tensioner/pulleys). Same kit from eBay that a lot of people on this forum were raving about.
I'm hoping this isnt the water pump, but if anyone has any ideas I would appreciate it. Thanks
Basically 2 days ago I was driving home from work and my radiator exploded. No big deal. I threw in a new radiator, gave it a flush, burped the system and refilled with coolant. Same problem. Code says p0115 AND my truck starts overheating at idle. My heater is also blowing cold air. Also my coolant overflow tank has steam coming out of it. I checked to make sure my thermostat is working properly and it was. Basically it sounds like a waterpump because coolant isnt getting to the engine, but I just replaced the water pump along with the timing belt (tensioner/pulleys). Same kit from eBay that a lot of people on this forum were raving about.
I'm hoping this isnt the water pump, but if anyone has any ideas I would appreciate it. Thanks
10-04-2018, 10:39 AM
#4
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Just some questions:
How sure are you that you got all of the air out of the cooling system?
Was the heater on "full heat" when you burped the air out of the cooling system?
Air still trapped in the cooling system can cause issues like these.
Is excessive pressure building in the cooling system?
Are your cooling fan and fan clutch working properly?
10-04-2018, 12:30 PM
#5
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^^^^What he said. Overheating at idle is frequently fan clutch.
Testing the fan clutch:
If you have reason to suspect that the fan clutch is defective, here is the recommended procedure to verify the condition of the fan clutch.
1. Start the car (cold) with the hood open and note if the fan is turning, increase the engine RPM and note if the fan turns faster and the noise increases, if it does, first good indication, if it does not increase speed/noise, clutch is bad and needs to be replaced. (Remember, this must be tested after the car has been off for and extended period, over night etc.)
2. Leave engine running and note if the fan starts to slow down after 2-5 minutes, speed/noise should diminish and even raising the RPM, the fan should not make as much noise as when first starting, if it does slow, this is the second good indication. If speed/noise does not decrease, clutch may be “frozen” and should be replaced.
3. Leave the engine idle and watch the temperature indicator. When normal operating temperature has been reached, some increase in fan speed/noise should be noted, in particular when the RPM is increased. If temperature is fairly stable and the fan noise/speed increases or cycles, third good indication. If temperature indication continues to increase, with no increase in fan noise/speed, clutch is defective and should be replaced.
4. After the engine is at normal operating temperature or above, is the only time that the “rolled up newspaper” test that many people talk about should be performed! Take some newspaper and roll it up into a long narrow tube. Be careful, keep hands and fingers away from the fan while performing this test! With the engine at full operating temperature and idling, take the rolled up paper and insert it on the back side of the fan and try to reach the hub of the fan avoiding the blades until close to the hub. Push the rolled paper at the fan increasing the friction to the hub area of the fan. If the fan can not be stopped easily this is the fourth good indication, if it can be stopped the clutch is defective and should be replaced. Again, this test can only be performed when the engine is at or above full operating temperature.
Testing can be performed in any order but just make sure the conditions during testing are those that are specified for that specific test.
Do not continue to operate the engine if the temperature continues to rise and certainly stop if the temperature approaches “redline”.
If you have reason to suspect that the fan clutch is defective, here is the recommended procedure to verify the condition of the fan clutch.
1. Start the car (cold) with the hood open and note if the fan is turning, increase the engine RPM and note if the fan turns faster and the noise increases, if it does, first good indication, if it does not increase speed/noise, clutch is bad and needs to be replaced. (Remember, this must be tested after the car has been off for and extended period, over night etc.)
2. Leave engine running and note if the fan starts to slow down after 2-5 minutes, speed/noise should diminish and even raising the RPM, the fan should not make as much noise as when first starting, if it does slow, this is the second good indication. If speed/noise does not decrease, clutch may be “frozen” and should be replaced.
3. Leave the engine idle and watch the temperature indicator. When normal operating temperature has been reached, some increase in fan speed/noise should be noted, in particular when the RPM is increased. If temperature is fairly stable and the fan noise/speed increases or cycles, third good indication. If temperature indication continues to increase, with no increase in fan noise/speed, clutch is defective and should be replaced.
4. After the engine is at normal operating temperature or above, is the only time that the “rolled up newspaper” test that many people talk about should be performed! Take some newspaper and roll it up into a long narrow tube. Be careful, keep hands and fingers away from the fan while performing this test! With the engine at full operating temperature and idling, take the rolled up paper and insert it on the back side of the fan and try to reach the hub of the fan avoiding the blades until close to the hub. Push the rolled paper at the fan increasing the friction to the hub area of the fan. If the fan can not be stopped easily this is the fourth good indication, if it can be stopped the clutch is defective and should be replaced. Again, this test can only be performed when the engine is at or above full operating temperature.
Testing can be performed in any order but just make sure the conditions during testing are those that are specified for that specific test.
Do not continue to operate the engine if the temperature continues to rise and certainly stop if the temperature approaches “redline”.
Last edited by TheDurk; 10-04-2018 at 12:43 PM.
10-06-2018, 02:15 PM
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Well I was messing around with it this morning and I tried running it WITHOUT a thermostat. So far, no overheating. My heater works again. I drove it around for around 15 minutes up some steep hills and the tack didnt even reach half way on my temperature gauge. I also saw water flowing through my radiator when I took the cap off so that rules out a water pump problem.
I tested both my old and new thermostat and they are both working properly so I'm not sure why taking it out completely worked.
I tested both my old and new thermostat and they are both working properly so I'm not sure why taking it out completely worked.
10-07-2018, 01:00 PM
#7
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Were both thermostats OEM? It will take longer to reach op temp without one in. If your climate temps are warmer where you live, might not be that big a deal. Might use a bit more fuel during warm up. If it gets cold where you live, I'd put a good one in.
As previously mentioned, air pockets can mimic the issue. Recommendations given are proper methods. Seems like other things checked out ok.
Usually with OBD codes, the light comes on after a set number of failed test/readings and likewise takes a set number of successful ones to turn off. Its common to hear about just disconnecting the battery for a min or two and then reconnecting to reset the code, but you still have to complete likely as many drive cycles to run all the tests again to be absolutely sure the light does not return.
Took me about a week to turn off automatically the light on another Pxxx code, just over another week to completely toss out from memory. Mainly short drives every day of the week.
As previously mentioned, air pockets can mimic the issue. Recommendations given are proper methods. Seems like other things checked out ok.
Usually with OBD codes, the light comes on after a set number of failed test/readings and likewise takes a set number of successful ones to turn off. Its common to hear about just disconnecting the battery for a min or two and then reconnecting to reset the code, but you still have to complete likely as many drive cycles to run all the tests again to be absolutely sure the light does not return.
Took me about a week to turn off automatically the light on another Pxxx code, just over another week to completely toss out from memory. Mainly short drives every day of the week.
Last edited by 75w90mantraN; 10-08-2018 at 07:32 PM.
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10-07-2018, 01:28 PM
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I used this thermostat by Duralast
https://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...8_0_1632_93207
I just tested it again this morning and it has the same symptoms before. Like I said earlier, I tested both thermostats on my stove and they both were working properly. Not sure why my thermostat is not opening. Also it makes it really hard to properly burp the system when there is so much pressure built up in the radiator.
https://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...8_0_1632_93207
I just tested it again this morning and it has the same symptoms before. Like I said earlier, I tested both thermostats on my stove and they both were working properly. Not sure why my thermostat is not opening. Also it makes it really hard to properly burp the system when there is so much pressure built up in the radiator.
10-07-2018, 10:00 PM
#9
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I just tested it again this morning and it has the same symptoms before.
With the thermostat or without?
Like I said earlier, I tested both thermostats on my stove and they both were working properly. Not sure why my thermostat is not opening
Weird. Why its best to stay OEM.
Also it makes it really hard to properly burp the system when there is so much pressure built up in the radiator.
...Is the system overfilled? What level shows on the overflow tank when its brought to op temp?
Are you losing coolant past the rad cap? Caps go bad as well. Not sure if you re-used or replaced yours with the new rad (OEM?)
Maybe a restriction in your cooling system...heater core, rad fins (if cheap quality)...or perhaps, like Durk and Oldyota point out...failing fan clutch.
Out of curiosity, was the coolant replaced with the same type? Mixing some incompatible types can cause some gel substances to form and block off small passages.
Just other possibilities in the absence of specifics. Hopefully just a faulty thermo. OEM is best for things like this. But even that isnt a guarantee. Some do have their share of defects. Not too many left on the shelf, know what I mean. I had a genuine brand exhaust manifold gasket that didnt quite line up. Had to enlarge one hole to make it fit.
With the thermostat or without?
Like I said earlier, I tested both thermostats on my stove and they both were working properly. Not sure why my thermostat is not opening
Weird. Why its best to stay OEM.
Also it makes it really hard to properly burp the system when there is so much pressure built up in the radiator.
...Is the system overfilled? What level shows on the overflow tank when its brought to op temp?
Are you losing coolant past the rad cap? Caps go bad as well. Not sure if you re-used or replaced yours with the new rad (OEM?)
Maybe a restriction in your cooling system...heater core, rad fins (if cheap quality)...or perhaps, like Durk and Oldyota point out...failing fan clutch.
Out of curiosity, was the coolant replaced with the same type? Mixing some incompatible types can cause some gel substances to form and block off small passages.
Just other possibilities in the absence of specifics. Hopefully just a faulty thermo. OEM is best for things like this. But even that isnt a guarantee. Some do have their share of defects. Not too many left on the shelf, know what I mean. I had a genuine brand exhaust manifold gasket that didnt quite line up. Had to enlarge one hole to make it fit.
Last edited by 75w90mantraN; 10-07-2018 at 10:10 PM.
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