1Runner

Hey Cebby, I was wondering about your P.P. rear springs. I know they are progressive, (which I need) but do they lift the rear-end 1.5 in. from sag, or do they go 1.5 in. beyond level? I finally put a tape measurer to my rig yesterday. It's exactly 1.5 in. lower in the rear than the front.
Common sence says 1.5 higher than lvl., but I need to know for sure. Did you crank your T. B.'s any? A 1.5 in. lift (over lvl.) in the rear and a crank on the front to get an inch of lift would be great.
Thanks!!

Cebby

If memory serves (my rig has been in its present form for a good 5 years or so), the PP coils lifted the rear up a little past level. My sag was like yours. Over time and from hauling a few heavy loads, they seem to have settled down a bit. I think when I put them on the net gain was 2"+, but after settling, it's more like a little less that 1.5". The guys that put my coils on brought up the front maybe a 1/2" with the stock T-Bars. It's kind of strange, I think the last time I measured, I was exactly 13.75 from flare to wheel front and rear. I always thought it was more. I think the BW's don't let me get a good measurement. No rubbing with 32's though. My next step is a Roger Brown 1" BL and 33's when the ol' BFG's wear out. If you want any specific pics, let me know.

4x4CPOSEADOG

Cebby,

Guys please excuse me for this is an off-topic and I have a question about the Heavy duty radiator Cebby installed on his rig. 1Runner I don't want to be rude and unethical jumping on your thread. Please excuse me.

Cebby, how many rows of core you have on your HD radiator? Who manufactured it and what is the part number. My radiator is starting to rot and I would like to replace it with the HD one. Can you help me out. Thanks a lot man.

the "New Noel" not TOMUS1000

Salue

I'm going to try to go to 33's without the 1"BL...Here's a site where he didn't do any BL....Just some fender pounding

33's no BL

Salue

Cebby

No problem New Noel. The radiator is not a Toyota model, but an aftermarket replacement. I'll need to dig up my paperwork on it for a part number. The top shroud is squared off and looks taller than the stocker. Not sure of how many rows, I'll check tomorrow in the daylight.

Don't worry about 1Runner - I think his fingers have frostbite...

4x4CPOSEADOG

Cebby,

Thanks a million in advance man. OUCH!!! frostbite, that's gonna hurt!! Send me an e-mail for all info regarding that rad and so it will be off topic. Thanks for your tips on those metric bolts for the Aisin hubs. I got mine from Lowes. Thanks once again.

Noel

Cebby

Salue,

The trimming isn't an option for me. I need the BW's for PA's tire coverage laws, especially with 12.5 x 33's...

The BL is very reasonable and gives me a little room to do some other things I'll want to do in the future (lift drivetrain (?), relocate gas tank, 3.4 swap, etc.)

Noel - glad to the bolts worked out for you. I'll dig up the info in the next day or so. I'll try to shoot some pics tomorrow before I head to work.

Salue

Cebby,
that is a good point you bring up. I am considering doing the 3.4 swap if this engine ever quits, and I heard that you need a BL for it to be done. Also, I also like the BW's which I was planning on putting on in a month or so. We shall see. Keep us posted. Do you plan on doing the BL anytime soon?

Salue

Cebby

As soon as it warms up and I clean this winter's accumulated crap out of my garage.

Actually, my priority is a rear locker and a budbilt transfercase skid/crossmember first. The one for the 3.0 V6 will be available soon. I'll need to do the BL before the end of the summer - by then, my BFG AT's will be shot. Then time for 33's and 8" wheels.

4x4CPOSEADOG

Cebby,

What type of rear locker are you planning to put on the rear? Is it going to be an e-locker or an e-z locker? Let me know because I'm saving money for this type of mod too. Thanks.

Noel

Cebby

ARB F&R. I was planning on getting a pretty stout air compressor, so I might as well make it earn it's keep...

I already have 4.88's, so it shouldn't be too outrageous. I finally found a shop that does gearing changes, so I need to see if they'll do the ARB (or have done some)

4x4CPOSEADOG

Cebby,

Looks like we got the same gear ratio in the rear. Well, I don't know if you heard any problem about the ARB F&R lockers. I heard the lines are susceptible to leaking. Don't know if that is true or not. Hey when you get yours modified keep us posted, so others may follow. Thanks again.

Noel

1Runner

I read an article re: the air lockers and running the lines for the activation. It seems to me the author ran metal brake line along the tops of the frame rail. (this was a pretty extreme rig if memory serves) Anyway, he had had no problems w/ damaged lines or leaking at that point. If my wheeling needs ever get more serious (or if I get more serious about wheeling.....) I think I'll try the e-locker conversion.........

HEY!!! WAIT A @*#*^%$' SECOND HERE!!!! This thread is about P.P. springs!! Noel, you feel free to change topic on one of my threads anytime. This is our "conversation". I asked Cebby a ?? and he answered it.... Speaking of Cebby. I'll have you know I have NO frostbite on my fingers. That, my friend, would require flesh on my hands. I have NONE since removing my running boards! :cry: Which will bring up my next thread "Tetanus; serious health threat, or hot new diet craze?"

Cebby

Ever since I changed my spark plugs last summer, I have a tetanus shot with my coffee every morning...

Hokiez97

I just added the P.P. springs. I think mine is lower in the front. I was noticing it last night at the grocery store.

I may just leave the T bars alone since the wife is driving it... That way she can see over the hood.

Plus it will give me a racecar appearence....


Cebby those lights may go on this week!


Mike


If you dont have the factory repair manuals, buy them. Some good detailed info..........

Cebby

Pics, Pics!!!!!

Mike, to get those plugs off the relay to facilitate install, use a small flat blade screwdriver slipped between the plug and the housing to help slip it off. You probably figured that out though...

Is the brushguard on yet?

Hokiez97

Hey Cebby,

Brushguard is on. My father-in-law welded a piece of 1 square metal on the bracket to extend it and we drilled another hole in it. Al I have to do is paint the 'virgin' metal so that it looks good.

I can't get the wife to stop driving it long enough to get the lights and paint on it. ARGGGGG........


Right now I have been cruising around looking at some driving lights to put on it. I have been thinking of getting some PIAA 520's in the driving style. The problem is they won't fit in the brushguard without mountin them slightly forward of the guard.

To do that I would have to fashion up some homemade brackets and attach it to the center crossmember on the OEM Brushguard.

Hey those 959's mount by just sliding up the post through the mountin bracket and tightening the nut, correct?

I am problebly gonna put the wire through the fire wall just to the right of the motor where a grommet is. ANy suggestions on sealing it.

I was thinking of just poking a small hole and feeding the wire through and then putting some Silicon on it. I don't want to put that flexible conduit through the firewall because if water gets into the conduit it could travel into the cab. I will run the conduit directly up to the firewall and then on the other side of the firewall to the fuse box.

How did you mount your relay, and how did you seal it up from the weather (as well as the connectors)???

Thanks,

Mike

Cebby

Yup.

I'm not sure which one you are talking about. I always try to use grommets that have other wires in them already, then just re-wrap with electrical tape. I've done the silicone route before. That's OK if you'll never try to put anything else in there. If you do, it's just a big mess. That split loom is just for looks and very minor protection (mainly protection abrasion and not much else) Definitely hold that short of the grommet.

My relay is different. The one you have is watertight. I use some of that electrical contact grease on the contacts before I put the plugs together. Can't remember what it's called. Got it at Autozone.