OME suspension help!!!
#41
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Originally posted by loosehead
MTL_,
In reading your last post it almost sounds like you missed this that Mike posted for you. The other piece of the puzzle that may not be obvious to a "newbie" is that OME stuff is made by ARB. Let me add one more vote for 891's and Comfort shocks, while I'm at it. Good Luck!
MTL_,
In reading your last post it almost sounds like you missed this that Mike posted for you. The other piece of the puzzle that may not be obvious to a "newbie" is that OME stuff is made by ARB. Let me add one more vote for 891's and Comfort shocks, while I'm at it. Good Luck!
Originally posted by keisur
MTL_,
i'm not real familiar with buying from other countries, do you have to pay duty on things or something? because I figured you could just order them from somebody here.
MTL_,
i'm not real familiar with buying from other countries, do you have to pay duty on things or something? because I figured you could just order them from somebody here.
Not to mention that many times they don't have the same volume of sales so you pay a higher cost there and there are often import fees which you never see except at the register.:cry:
Let me tell you it was quite a rude shock when I moved from Arizona (the land of plenty) to here......but there are some good things about living here too.....like really cheap tuition and free healthcare.
#42
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Originally posted by MTL_4runner
but there are some good things about living here too.....like really cheap tuition and free healthcare.
but there are some good things about living here too.....like really cheap tuition and free healthcare.
#43
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891's are perfect for a 200 pound rear bumper. Make that 1" Cornbred spacers and 891's
FYI- even the OME firm shocks are woosie soft compared to the Bilsteins.
FYI- even the OME firm shocks are woosie soft compared to the Bilsteins.
#44
Hey MTL...
MTL_4Runner
Call a dealer with your VIN, you are probably eligible for the rear coil spring recall like I was. If anything, get the new springs then sell them once you get your OME set-up. This will fix your sagging.
The dealer will replace the springs and the bump stops if you are 4WD.
ISR MOD
The ISR mod is well worth it. It is pretty loud at WOT. I recently submitted a write-up for the 96 - 97's. Total cost is about $12, and you can change it right back to stock in about 5 minutes.
Here is the link to my ISR mod write-up.
I also have 2 ISR Mods for sale here.
Call a dealer with your VIN, you are probably eligible for the rear coil spring recall like I was. If anything, get the new springs then sell them once you get your OME set-up. This will fix your sagging.
The dealer will replace the springs and the bump stops if you are 4WD.
ISR MOD
The ISR mod is well worth it. It is pretty loud at WOT. I recently submitted a write-up for the 96 - 97's. Total cost is about $12, and you can change it right back to stock in about 5 minutes.
Here is the link to my ISR mod write-up.
I also have 2 ISR Mods for sale here.
Last edited by rimpainter.com; 07-16-2003 at 02:05 PM.
#45
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Cool....thanks man, I appreciate it!
I read someone's posting that when they went in for the dealer fix, they didn't replace the rear springs but just put in a conical bump stop......is this true?.....or do they replace my springs with newer ones for free also? The guy said it made the ride even worse. Any truth to this or is it just a load of BS?
I'll give the ISR mod a try and see what kind of power\noise I get out of it. If I end up keeping it I will take some pics and post em. You did an awesome job on the writeup by the way!!!! Very clear with lots o pics.....KUDOS!
I read someone's posting that when they went in for the dealer fix, they didn't replace the rear springs but just put in a conical bump stop......is this true?.....or do they replace my springs with newer ones for free also? The guy said it made the ride even worse. Any truth to this or is it just a load of BS?
I'll give the ISR mod a try and see what kind of power\noise I get out of it. If I end up keeping it I will take some pics and post em. You did an awesome job on the writeup by the way!!!! Very clear with lots o pics.....KUDOS!
Last edited by MTL_4runner; 07-16-2003 at 05:20 PM.
#46
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Originally posted by MTL_4runner
Cool....thanks man, I appreciate it!
I read someone's posting that when they went in for the dealer fix, they didn't replace the rear springs but just put in a conical bump stop......is this true?.....or do they replace my springs with newer ones for free also? The guy said it made the ride even worse. Any truth to this or is it just a load of BS?
Cool....thanks man, I appreciate it!
I read someone's posting that when they went in for the dealer fix, they didn't replace the rear springs but just put in a conical bump stop......is this true?.....or do they replace my springs with newer ones for free also? The guy said it made the ride even worse. Any truth to this or is it just a load of BS?
They replaced my springs and added the isolator jobby's. the springs did definately act different, I think they were lighter. I have them for sale or maybe even give away if anybody is interested.
#47
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So, if I'm reading this right, the OME 890's or the downey springs would be the best ride for someone that has the stock bumper, right? And, deciding which shocks seems to be another hard part. Either the comforts or firms, from what I've read and discussed with Steve. Does anyone know the spring rates for the downey's and OME's in comparison to the stock coils.
Steve, are you running the cornfed 1" spacers in addition to the 891's? If so, isn't that 4" of lift, and I thought you were only running 2" up front with your SAWS?
Chris
Steve, are you running the cornfed 1" spacers in addition to the 891's? If so, isn't that 4" of lift, and I thought you were only running 2" up front with your SAWS?
Chris
#49
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Originally posted by ravencr
So, ifto the stock coils.
Steve, are you running the cornfed 1" spacers in addition to the 891's? If so, isn't that 4" of lift, and I thought you were only running 2" up front with your SAWS?
Chris
So, ifto the stock coils.
Steve, are you running the cornfed 1" spacers in addition to the 891's? If so, isn't that 4" of lift, and I thought you were only running 2" up front with your SAWS?
Chris
Last edited by keisur; 07-16-2003 at 07:48 PM.
#50
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You're probably right. I have a stock bumper and no real weight in the rear, and this whole decision of what shocks and springs to go with is making me nuts. Isn't it true that 2" up front is about the max with ADD hubs on a 3rd gen 4runner?
Chris
Chris
#51
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Originally posted by ravencr
You're probably right. I have a stock bumper and no real weight in the rear, and this whole decision of what shocks and springs to go with is making me nuts. Isn't it true that 2" up front is about the max with ADD hubs on a 3rd gen 4runner?
Chris
You're probably right. I have a stock bumper and no real weight in the rear, and this whole decision of what shocks and springs to go with is making me nuts. Isn't it true that 2" up front is about the max with ADD hubs on a 3rd gen 4runner?
Chris
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Originally posted by ravencr
So the revtek spacers are good for how much additional height up front?
Chris
So the revtek spacers are good for how much additional height up front?
Chris
crank them up without dropping the diff if you don't mind a slight vibe and replacing parts all the time.
crank the up and drop the diff if you want it to last longer and not have vibes.
don't crank them up and stay closer to 2" with no diff drop and have a long happy almost maintenance free cv life and drop the diff for added security.
I' guess you can safely add maybe .5" to the SAWs since they are just 1" spacers and the whole diff doesn't drop 1".
#55
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I am definately in if we can get a group buy on the OME kits.
I'll have mine delivered to a friend's house in the US and pick it up.
Mike, if your out there let us know what you think.
For now I will try and have the dealer replace the rear ones but I am still not convinced that it will help any at all. I think Toyota (although rarely) dropped the ball on this part of their design of the 4Runners
I'll have mine delivered to a friend's house in the US and pick it up.
Mike, if your out there let us know what you think.
For now I will try and have the dealer replace the rear ones but I am still not convinced that it will help any at all. I think Toyota (although rarely) dropped the ball on this part of their design of the 4Runners
Last edited by MTL_4runner; 07-17-2003 at 03:23 AM.
#57
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Hey keisur,
If I go with the OME 891s and get about 3" of lift because I am otherwise totally bone stock.....will I have trouble with the CV boot wear or is that not enuf angle on them to worry about?
I am not planning on running any extra spacers or anything like that to add more lift, but I do care quite a bit about having to replace the CV boots on a regular basis. Let me know what ya think!
If I go with the OME 891s and get about 3" of lift because I am otherwise totally bone stock.....will I have trouble with the CV boot wear or is that not enuf angle on them to worry about?
I am not planning on running any extra spacers or anything like that to add more lift, but I do care quite a bit about having to replace the CV boots on a regular basis. Let me know what ya think!
#58
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Originally posted by ravencr
Also, where does one get the Revtek Differential Drop spacers, and how much are they?
Chris
Also, where does one get the Revtek Differential Drop spacers, and how much are they?
Chris
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891's will give you 3" in the REAR.
OME front springs = 880, 881, 882
OME rear springs = 890, 891, 892
With no extra weight from steel bumpers you don't want the 882 or 892. 881 in the front often sag after not too long leaving you somewhere between 1.5"-2". This is why people add a spacer, to level it back out to 2.5". 2.5 in the front is the magic number for CV boot wear. Up to that point you'll get a little bit of extra wear. Above 2.5, you're gonna be ripping boots. The diff drop spacers drop you by .5" on the CV angle, making a 2.5" lift wear your CV's like 2".
OME front springs = 880, 881, 882
OME rear springs = 890, 891, 892
With no extra weight from steel bumpers you don't want the 882 or 892. 881 in the front often sag after not too long leaving you somewhere between 1.5"-2". This is why people add a spacer, to level it back out to 2.5". 2.5 in the front is the magic number for CV boot wear. Up to that point you'll get a little bit of extra wear. Above 2.5, you're gonna be ripping boots. The diff drop spacers drop you by .5" on the CV angle, making a 2.5" lift wear your CV's like 2".