95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

OME/SAW Lift Installed, PICS!

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Old Jun 30, 2003 | 11:24 AM
  #21  
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No prob, my pleasure. Sometimes the "helping him not to forget stuff" is the most important part car repair!
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Old Jun 30, 2003 | 11:27 AM
  #22  
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Hey David,
Welcome to the land of the lifted. Your rig is really starting to take shape.

Lookin' good dude.

Mike
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Old Jun 30, 2003 | 11:34 AM
  #23  
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Right on David, looks great!
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Old Jun 30, 2003 | 11:36 AM
  #24  
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Thanks. Did you notice that my coils were mislabeled- thanks for the heads up on that one Tom!

Thanks Mike- we'll have to test it out in a couple weeks.
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Old Jun 30, 2003 | 12:20 PM
  #25  
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Originally posted by Mad Chemist
No alignment yet, the camber is definitely off, the tops are cambered out, left to right is okay, which I guess makes sense. I've got a big trip this weekend, so I was thinking about trying to adjust the camber myself to get it close, then go in for the alignment after everything has settled a bit. BTW- should the caps on the SAW valves be screwed tight, or left a little loose?
I screwed my tires up (which didn't matter anyway because I was buying new ones) by driving a long time without an alignment after installing my SAWs. best thing to do is go to sears and get a $60 alignment, 6000 miles or 6months garantee. they did a really good job on mine about a month ago, way better than the expensive kooks at 4wheelparts did. I think when you adjust your camber, the toe will move too so you will be messing the Left-right up when you do that. seriously man, get an alignment, unless you plan on getting new tires soon, then just "see" what these tires can take, haha.
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Old Jun 30, 2003 | 12:23 PM
  #26  
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Yeah, mostly an issue of getting an alignment before the 4th. Will probably do at least 1000 miles. Since I'll be getting MT's soon, I don't care that much, but since the Revos only have ~6000 miles on them, I'm going to hold onto them and remount them in the winter when I won't be offroading as much.
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Old Jun 30, 2003 | 12:45 PM
  #27  
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Is that bottom pic at 3" of lift? It looks like you have hardly cranked the SAW's!! It seems like I have a lot more thread showing at the bottom of my SAW's and it's not even 3". Wow.

John
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Old Jun 30, 2003 | 12:49 PM
  #28  
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Originally posted by Mojo_Risin
Is that bottom pic at 3" of lift? It looks like you have hardly cranked the SAW's!! It seems like I have a lot more thread showing at the bottom of my SAW's and it's not even 3". Wow.

John
That's what I was wondering too. I think I have almost 3 inches of threads showing.
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Old Jun 30, 2003 | 12:50 PM
  #29  
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Hey John,

I initially had about 3" of thread showing, but when I measured the ground to fender trim I was at about 39 inches (stock was 34.5), so I ended up lowering the collar to about 1 inch of thread showing.

Once things settled a bit, I eventually ended up with about 2 inches of thread, a bit more on the drivers side (maybe 2.25 inches?), which gives me 3" of lift (34.5 to 37.5 ground to flare distance). I'm almost positive that this picture is the 2" of thread, but now I'm not sure. Anyways, I've got about 2" of thread at the moment. How about yourself? And do you leave the cap on the valve tightened or loose?
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Old Jun 30, 2003 | 12:52 PM
  #30  
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These are also the Tundra-valved shocks, which are a bit stiffer. Mike said all of the SAWS are Tundra-valved now, so they might be a bit stiffer than the older ones?
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Old Jun 30, 2003 | 12:54 PM
  #31  
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Originally posted by Mad Chemist
And do you leave the cap on the valve tightened or loose?
I leave mine tight. you won't need it loose until you rebuild probably. I tried screwing a high pressure flexable hose shock pressure gauge up to mine to see what they were inflated to but since the are mounted facing in, the a-arm was in the way and I couldn't screw the gauge tip onto the valve. so I am assuming if they hange to get filled you'll somehow have to stuff the wheel or pull the assembly. of course they may have some lowprofile nozzle or something that can get on there.
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Old Jun 30, 2003 | 02:18 PM
  #32  
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Originally posted by Mad Chemist
Yeah, mostly an issue of getting an alignment before the 4th. Will probably do at least 1000 miles. Since I'll be getting MT's soon, I don't care that much, but since the Revos only have ~6000 miles on them, I'm going to hold onto them and remount them in the winter when I won't be offroading as much.
I got my alignment done at my local Firestone. For $139. Sounds like a lot, but its a "Lifetime" alignment. I could go in once a week for as long as I own my truck and get it realigned for free.
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Old Jun 30, 2003 | 02:21 PM
  #33  
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A friend of mine got a lifetime at Sears. Went in twice to readjust and last I heard he was still pulling to the right.

Maybe it's just that particular shop.
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Old Jun 30, 2003 | 02:30 PM
  #34  
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Originally posted by Tacoma Dude
A friend of mine got a lifetime at Sears. Went in twice to readjust and last I heard he was still pulling to the right.

Maybe it's just that particular shop.
I went to the Firestone in Issaquah off Gilman and they seemed to have done a good job. Steering wheel is straight when going straight, and it doesn't pull at all.
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Old Jun 30, 2003 | 02:32 PM
  #35  
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There's a Goodyear around the corner from my place, I should probably check that out.

Dunno about Firestone though.
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Old Jun 30, 2003 | 02:38 PM
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Originally posted by Mad Chemist
These are also the Tundra-valved shocks, which are a bit stiffer. Mike said all of the SAWS are Tundra-valved now, so they might be a bit stiffer than the older ones?
It would be the springs that determine the height, not the valving.
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Old Jun 30, 2003 | 03:03 PM
  #37  
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Old Jun 30, 2003 | 03:23 PM
  #38  
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Keisur,

I don't know then- maybe they'll settle a bit more with time, but I'm confident about the measurements before and after.
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Old Jun 30, 2003 | 05:51 PM
  #39  
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Do you have ADD hubs or manual locking hubs, because I thought 2" of lift upfront was the max recomended unless you went with Manual locking hubs??

Chris
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Old Jun 30, 2003 | 08:54 PM
  #40  
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Originally posted by Mad Chemist
And do you leave the cap on the valve tightened or loose?
The cap on the valve should be tight just so it doesn't vibrate off or allow dirt or water behind it. BTW, the cap doesn't actually hold the pressure in, but keeps junk out.
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