OME/SAW Lift Installed, PICS!
#25
Originally posted by Mad Chemist
No alignment yet, the camber is definitely off, the tops are cambered out, left to right is okay, which I guess makes sense. I've got a big trip this weekend, so I was thinking about trying to adjust the camber myself to get it close, then go in for the alignment after everything has settled a bit. BTW- should the caps on the SAW valves be screwed tight, or left a little loose?
No alignment yet, the camber is definitely off, the tops are cambered out, left to right is okay, which I guess makes sense. I've got a big trip this weekend, so I was thinking about trying to adjust the camber myself to get it close, then go in for the alignment after everything has settled a bit. BTW- should the caps on the SAW valves be screwed tight, or left a little loose?
#26
Yeah, mostly an issue of getting an alignment before the 4th. Will probably do at least 1000 miles. Since I'll be getting MT's soon, I don't care that much, but since the Revos only have ~6000 miles on them, I'm going to hold onto them and remount them in the winter when I won't be offroading as much.
#28
Originally posted by Mojo_Risin
Is that bottom pic at 3" of lift? It looks like you have hardly cranked the SAW's!! It seems like I have a lot more thread showing at the bottom of my SAW's and it's not even 3". Wow.
John
Is that bottom pic at 3" of lift? It looks like you have hardly cranked the SAW's!! It seems like I have a lot more thread showing at the bottom of my SAW's and it's not even 3". Wow.
John
#29
Hey John,
I initially had about 3" of thread showing, but when I measured the ground to fender trim I was at about 39 inches (stock was 34.5), so I ended up lowering the collar to about 1 inch of thread showing.
Once things settled a bit, I eventually ended up with about 2 inches of thread, a bit more on the drivers side (maybe 2.25 inches?), which gives me 3" of lift (34.5 to 37.5 ground to flare distance). I'm almost positive that this picture is the 2" of thread, but now I'm not sure. Anyways, I've got about 2" of thread at the moment. How about yourself? And do you leave the cap on the valve tightened or loose?
I initially had about 3" of thread showing, but when I measured the ground to fender trim I was at about 39 inches (stock was 34.5), so I ended up lowering the collar to about 1 inch of thread showing.
Once things settled a bit, I eventually ended up with about 2 inches of thread, a bit more on the drivers side (maybe 2.25 inches?), which gives me 3" of lift (34.5 to 37.5 ground to flare distance). I'm almost positive that this picture is the 2" of thread, but now I'm not sure. Anyways, I've got about 2" of thread at the moment. How about yourself? And do you leave the cap on the valve tightened or loose?
#31
Originally posted by Mad Chemist
And do you leave the cap on the valve tightened or loose?
And do you leave the cap on the valve tightened or loose?
#32
Originally posted by Mad Chemist
Yeah, mostly an issue of getting an alignment before the 4th. Will probably do at least 1000 miles. Since I'll be getting MT's soon, I don't care that much, but since the Revos only have ~6000 miles on them, I'm going to hold onto them and remount them in the winter when I won't be offroading as much.
Yeah, mostly an issue of getting an alignment before the 4th. Will probably do at least 1000 miles. Since I'll be getting MT's soon, I don't care that much, but since the Revos only have ~6000 miles on them, I'm going to hold onto them and remount them in the winter when I won't be offroading as much.
#34
Originally posted by Tacoma Dude
A friend of mine got a lifetime at Sears. Went in twice to readjust and last I heard he was still pulling to the right.
Maybe it's just that particular shop.
A friend of mine got a lifetime at Sears. Went in twice to readjust and last I heard he was still pulling to the right.
Maybe it's just that particular shop.
#36
Originally posted by Mad Chemist
These are also the Tundra-valved shocks, which are a bit stiffer. Mike said all of the SAWS are Tundra-valved now, so they might be a bit stiffer than the older ones?
These are also the Tundra-valved shocks, which are a bit stiffer. Mike said all of the SAWS are Tundra-valved now, so they might be a bit stiffer than the older ones?
#40
Originally posted by Mad Chemist
And do you leave the cap on the valve tightened or loose?
And do you leave the cap on the valve tightened or loose?


