Is it a 2WD or a 4WD?

 

yeah, what Jamie said

 

Oops 4wd...

 

The more I think about this vibration problem on the 2WDs the more I think the lack of a double cardan joint may be to blame unless the pinion angle is getting too extreme after the lift. I ideally you want a 0 angle at rest between the driveshaft and the pinion input (like this):



http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/

Take a look at these articles here:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/driveline/
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...n-Measurements

Here is a shot from a 4WD:

 

I did both things to get my vibe to go away...adjust the pinion angle and put in the double cardan d-shaft.





Yeah, I know it's leaking a little.....

 

Did you replace all 4 links or just the two bottom ones to get the angle in the axle housing? reason I'm asking is because I'm trying to figure out if you've shifted the housing (centerline of the wheels) toward the front a little or maybe toward the back resulting in less clearance between the front or rear edges of the fender wells.

Also, your springs and shocks don't touch when flexing after angling that thing?

 

New transmission mount installed...no change. I really didn't expect it but you never know...next stop U-joints. I was looking at the transmission crossmember last night, and I really don't see a way to lower it. It is welded on the frame rails. The center section is removable and I could possible drop it down in that location but I am not 100%. Maybe my mechanic will have some ideas...The last resort will be to install adjustable control arms in the rear. I am just not really sure about that though. Do you think I could get a double cardan u-joint to mount at the transmission end? If possible, what would it take to complete besides a new joint?

 

I got my d-shaft at the junk yard. Basically I got the front Pre 85 d-shaft and swap out the t-case output flange to match the front t-case output flange. You can get the flange from Marlin or get another t-case. I chose the latter cause I can go dual case using the extra t-case. It's top shift one even. I paid 50 for the d-shaft and another 100 for retube for the right length and balance. If your lift is not as high, you might be able to avoid the control arm replacement.
I was fine with 3" of lift ( Downey springs and spacers ).

To answer Keisur's question....
Yes, I replaced all 4 links. The lower control arms are 1 inch longer than stock. the upper ones are adjust for the pinion angle. The springs do not touch the shocks. I made an adaptor to convert the bolt mount to the eye mount cause I want to use the RS90012 shocks. I moved it away from the springs as much as the monting hole allow me and it doesn't touch. Here's a pic of it.
http://home.earthlink.net/~audiorat1...ckadaptor7.jpg
This is what it looks like when stuffed.
http://home.earthlink.net/~audiorat1...est1/ramp3.jpg

 

I am 2wd. No flange at the tranny. The shaft just slips into the tranny housing then I bolt the rear of the shaft to the pinion flange. I guess if I could get a flange that allows a 4wd d-shaft with a double cardan u-joint to be installed, I'd be in business

 

Do you even need a flange?

The double cardan is just a double U-joint, so could you just adapt your existing output to the first part of the U-joint on the double cardan?
....just a thought, no idea if they are different sizes.

Can you take a pic of your 2WD driveline and post it?

 

Sure can...I'll do it as soon as I get home...That is an idea...hmmmmm????

 

The 2wd 3rd Gen has a big old fat slip yoke shaft. The 4WD truck has a sliding drive shaft and flanges.

I did tell you all this a month ago. What has changed that no one has hit on is that your running your rear drive shaft pulled out quite a bit from the slip section.

Lets say you had 2" of spline engagement before the lift and now you only have 1" or even less.

The problem does lie in that driveshaft, it's not very impressive, where as the 4WD shaft is.

It's not the diff, it's not the rear axle and it wasn't the trac bar, I did tell you that I did not think it would fix that issue but others, that you were not mentioning.


Call a good drive shaft shop like High Angle and see what they can make for you.

Exact same thing happens to a Jeep Wrangler, which is why they either lower the t-case or get a new rear slip shaft and a yoke eliminator.

Here is what the 2wd shaft looks like. It sucks.

 

Yes and I really appreciate all of the help you provided with the panhard order. Thanks Steve! To set the record straight, I said I had hoped that that would fix my problem, it didn't, but it did fix the tracking in line problem. Thanks again for that! I was in no way discounting the advice you gave me, I was just going on the research I conducted with others having the same issues as myself. If the driveshaft length is in fact the issue, then I'll do what I have to to get it straight, but after reading others resolutions, I felt that I need to try the 'obvious' solutions first, u-joints, pinion angle, tranny mount, etc...since these fixed most of the problems.

I know you told me all of this but I haven't been able to get much help from anyone here locally, thank God for yotatech or I'd really be screwed. I guess it really comes down to this: I have heard sooooo many suggestions that now I don't know what to do besides what I have already done. There is a driveshaft service center here in Atlanta, but I am not sure I trust them from the past experience I had with them. They are the ONLY non-commercial driveshaft shop here in Atlanta unfortunately. I guess I am looking for a needle in a haystack so to speak. I am willing to travel a nominal distance to get some help, but I really would like some suggestions of who to contact in the southeast. Brian (waskilly) gave me the name of his driveline guy. Thanks Brian! After I have tried everything I can, then I will start traveling...Road Trip!!!

My mechanic said that I could lower my transmission crossmember. I don't see how we could do that seeing how it is welded to the frame. Another problem I have is it seems like all of the specialty Toyota shops are out west. I don't know how comfortable I would be having a $$$ driveshaft custom made and it still not fix the problem. It would be a whole different story if I was local to a specialty shop like that but I am not.

Thanks to everyone on here for trying to help me with this. I value everyones opinion. But it is only an opinion if we don't have concrete answers. I am searching for a concrete answer here, but I am using opinions to get to the answer so as to help others in the future...sorry for the long post, back to the underside of my truck

 

Find a stock unlifted 2WD 3rd Gen, measure the distance from the slip where the driveshaft inserts to the rear flange. Then measure yours and see how much your slip yoke has pull out.

Extend the driveshaft that amount.

 

I went home and put the stock springs back in the rear. But before I did so here is what I did. I measured back 1 inch from the trans slip housing.


Then I made a mark on the yoke for reference.


Then I put the stock springs on. I drove around a bit, guess what...no vibration. So when I got back I measured the distance from the trans slip housing and the difference is 7/16 of an inch.


Now with that being said, if the length is the ONLY problem, then I found the cause. Now I have to find a place I can trust to lengthen it for me. So I am getting close to a concrete answer. Thanks Steve, I wouldn't even have thought of that if it weren't for you...props yo!

 

That slip shaft is pulled out quite a bit. See how it is well inside then ring and then after the lift it's outside.

It's pretty much pulled out 1/2", do you remember how long the splined section is? If it's only 1" you have 1/2 of the engagement you did at stock.

WHY? They use those driveshafts is beyond me, they should fix flange the 2WD and use the same double CV slip shaft as the 4WD.

 

When you say spline section...are you referring to the shiny piece that slips in the housing?



If so, I didn't take note of the inside and how long the spline section is...I can take the shaft off again and look though...

 

Yes, that is it.

 

I'll take the driveshaft off tomorrow evening and take a look at the spline length.

 

Dude, you might be able to make a small plate out of aluminum ( same thickness as how much the slip yoke slide out ) to go between the differential flange and the d-shaft. Use longer bolts.
Someone must make these already......maybe?