You need to get an adjustable traction/pan-head bar if you want those rear shocks not to break off at the top stud. Sonora Steel makes a VERY nice one and it will put your rear axle back in alignment instead of being pulled off the side as it currently is now because of the lift.

 

Nice looking machine...
2X on the panhard bar bracket!!!
Question: how much longer are those shocks over stock?

 

You're right, that's next on my "to do" list.

Thanks Lumpy. I'm not sure what the stock spec's are, but I got a lot of my info here

 

Here is one

 

An adjustable traction bar is a MUCH better solution than a "drop kit".

The adjustable bar can be set to the exact length needed to compensate for the lift as opposed to the drop kit with is for an approxamte "2-3" of lift.

Also the adjustable bars are just measure and bolt up install. The drop kits require welding.

 

Not ours!

 

Well if that is the case them you might want to correct YOUR WEBPAGE. It says and I quote

"PDR-1 Weld on panhard drop bracket. Improves stability and handling with 2" to 3" rear lift. Made from heavy steel includes 2 bolts for mounting. Fits all '96-'02 4Runner"

Even if it doesn't weld on (which your web page claims it does) I still stand by my opinion that an adjustable length traction bar is a superior solution over a "drop bracket".

 

That right there is funny.

I'm thinking most go for the drop it's more economical. The adjustable bar maybe a bit more stable. Just my thoughts is all...

 

i think a bolt-on kit for dropping the upper end of the lateral rod is better than an adjustable lateral rod. it's because the drop kit restores the lateral rod position to its original geometry wherein the rod is almost in the horizontal position. by restoring the lateral rod to its original geometry (or at least near the original geometry), the rear "wiggle" that goes with a 3"+ lift is also reduced or eliminated plus maintaining the horizontal alignment of the axle. whereas with an adjustable lateral rod, it only restores the horizontal alignment of the axle but does not eliminate the rear "wiggle". about the toytec drop-down kit, i inquired about it last year via email to their website and they said that it needs to be welded.

 

I agree totally that a "drop kit" that does drop the traction bar to a FULLY HORIZONTAL position as it was before the lift is bar none the best solution.

The problem is 98% of the "drop kits" made only drop the traction bar enough to realign the rear axle to center but don't stop rear end wiggle so basicly do the same as the adjustable traction bar does only without the mess of welding.

Yes there is "drop bar kits" that do return the traction bar to stock original geometry but they a quite a bit more than just a u shaped channel with a U-bolt and do require a good bit of welding to be structurally sound.

 

just a little fyi i lifted my 4runner last nov with a OMErun3 lift from toytec with the diff drop kit and i just noticed that i sheared of the lower panhard bar bolt completely all that is left of it is the piece that is still in the eyelet. i also have a left rear swaybar link that is bad as well, probably related. so i will probably be going with a SS adjustable panhard bar and a set of sway bar links from rock auto

 

I stand correct. My apologizes for miss info. You are correct. Turns out it actually is both, bolt on and weld. It bolts up, but does require wedding onto the frame.

Thanks for the correction.

 

The trouble with the adjustable panhard is that it ends up being physically longer than the stock panhard. So, as the suspension compresses the rear axle is shifted further to the left (drivers side) as opposed to stock until the panhard mounting points are horizontal to one another then it begins to arc back towards the passenger side. A drop bracket that locates the panhard horizontally keeps the axle more centered throughout the suspension range of motion (as the factory intended).

In the real world the difference between the two mods are probably minimal although an adjustable panhard might ride a bit worse since suspension compression would make the panhard want to push the frame/body to the right more so than a horizontal panhard.

 

I've noticed the front passenger side was a little high but I thought it would eventually settle in. It never did, so I wrenched the coilover down a tad bit last night and it looks a lot better now.

As for adjusting the coilover; it was pretty tough...it didn't want to budge. I put a deep socket and an extenstion over the end of the spanner wrench which gave me some more leverage.

 

Swapped out the factory radio for a Scion Pioneer today:


Again, not an off-road improvement, but this is becoming more of a build thread so I'll just run with it...

 

So I know this is a little out of date, but I noticed that Sonoran Steel has changed their tune a bit on the panhard drop kits and has stopped selling them. Read their reasoning here:
http://www.sonoransteel.com/index.ph...products_id=18

 

This guy has a lot of good stuff. I'm planning on buying one of his drop bracket kits(100% bolt on) and probably some of his rock sliders as well. maybe even the seat bushings. He has done his homework, and you can tell.

this is all quoted from his website:

"Two drop bracket kits are available. The basic kit includes just the drop bracket itself, you'll need to supply a smaller (7/16" - 1/2") bolt for the top of the bracket and a larger (9/16" - 5/8") bolt to attach the bottom of the bracket. The deluxe kit includes the bracket and also the additional bolts required to install the drop bracket on the existing frame bracket. The bracket is set up for a 4" lift, that is it will relocate the panhard rod 4" lower than the frame bracket. It is possible to drill the bracket for less lift. This can be done by the end-user or the bracket can be ordered custom fit down to approx. 2-1/2" drop"

and here's a link: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...anhardDropBrkt

 

Here's an entire page on his Rock SliderZ if ur interested. Just options.

 

Did you forget the link?

Sonoran has a good point about the ideal situation though, that it would be less tippy if you could raise the lower side rather than lower the top side.

I feel like the expandable bar is a little simpler and more robust, instead of increasing the length of the cantilevered panhard mounting bracket.

 

When you unwrap your shiny new SS adj. track bar and adjust it to the proper length for your rear lift (typically 2.5-3"), you're going to laugh at where your $175 just went .

Seriously it's like 0.25" longer. I wish I had known that prior...but if you're going to run LC springs, i'd definitely recommend it.