How does this compare to an LC engineering header? I am assuming the LC header requires further mods to ones exhaust.

 

Well got it all together today pics coming soon


does anybody know what the torque specs are on the nuts that hold the manifold to the head (there the ones that go on the studs coming out of the head, don't want to pull the studs out of the alumi head)


Found it 36flbs

 

I am psyched about seeing how it turned out.

 

so here it goes


well i got this in the mail






then removed all the intake stuff and got to the manifold








then I removed all the nuts which I sprayed throughout the week with penitrating oil





then I had to drop the exhaust down so the studs coming out of the manifold would clear it so I could pull it off the head

had to take out those two bolts to let the exhaust drop down


also had to take off the hanger

 

then I got it off yeah







This little sucker was pretty tough to get of but I got it



taped off the ends



painted



all together







Started right up and ran real nice.

Took about 3hours and ran into no problems what so ever. I would recommend that a week before you start this project to get some good penitrating oil on all the bolts and studs that will be removed helped out alot because everything came apart like it was built yesterday. I oiled them three times before I went at it

It feels like I might have a little better throtle responce and a little harder pull in the higher RPMS If I had an after market exhaust the rest of the way I am sure it would be much more noticible.

 

I just bought this exact setup for one of my customers locally. Good to see this works perfectly.

Toyota tried to tell me it wasn't going to work....but I knew otherwise

 

lookin good

 

If only Toyota would do that for all of their OEM headers, I'd get them too!

 

96redtoy, Thank you for putting up the pics - looks like you did an excellent job. I never did headers, would I have to buy new gaskets?

 

Yes new gaskets all the way around

You need two collector gaskets
One manifold too block gasket
and the EGR gasket (make sure they give you the one on the exhaust side not the intake side)

You will have to retorque the nuts on on the manifold a few times before it sets correctly (make sure you do it when the engine is at operating temp also)

 

Thanks for the info, much appreciated, would not have known all of that. Did you order Gaskets online too?

 

No got them all at advanced Auto

but you can get them from the place that I got the manifold from
a little bit more money because they are factory toyota parts

 

Thanks again, I appreciate the help, install looks real nice.

 

Thanks for posting these pics, and the tips on the swap.

I'm acquiring parts for this swap for my 2000 3RZ 4runner. I will probably buy a junkyard mini-header for ~$100 or so- if someone can tell me a reason why this is not a good idea, fire away...

I'm curious- did your new part come with the heat shield? If not, do you foresee any issues running without it?

Also, is there any performance or longevity reason to paint the mini-header? Or did you do that mainly for appearance? I'm guessing you must have used some kind of high heat tolerant paint...

I'm still researching mufflers and after-market cats- not convinced a new "free flow" cat is needed, although LCE offers one. But I am set on going with 2 1/4" pipe. Stock is 2" I believe.

 

Has the paint burnt off yet? If not, what type of paint did you use?

 

no it has not yet still looks like it did in the picture

it was VHT very high temperature paint 1300-2000 degrees
silica ceramic coating

bought at advanced auto $10 for a can

 

No the new manifold did not come with a heatsheild, but could be bought at the location I bought the manifold from. I am not running one mostly because I don't want to spend any more money on one that would fit the new manifold. With enough thought and welding the old one would fit.

I do not see a real need to run one because there is nothing important that is close to the manifold that could melt or get over heated, and every body that runs other headers don't seem to have any problems not having a sheild.

I did some reasearch over on TTORA and they say that without the heatsheild the engine bay is not any hotter then before. I cannot varify that this is true, but it does not seem any hotter to me.


I painted the header because it would start to rust almost instantly and I hate rust

 

Thanks redtoy!

 

Excellent write up! I am definitely going to do this mod soon.

 

I have that header stock on my 2000 4runner. It must be a California thing because I also have 2 Cats and a LEV sticker under the hood. It is the same 150hp rating as other years. It is unpainted and covered with a heat shield. It has only gotten a little surface rust on it.

I was going to do the LC header route when I first bought it, but when I saw the extra cat and the header I figured it wasn't worth the trouble.