just to let you know, i used a standard craftsman socket and a breaker bar. i used a chian wrench to hold the crankshaft pulley in place. nothing brike, so you sgould be ok.

 

Good, I was a little worried about that. I would hate to get that far into the job and have to go all the way to the mall for more parts.

For the breaker bar did you use 1/2 drive and socket with a pipe on the end of the wrench, or did you use an actual breaker bar?

 

Ahh, "universal" as in "like a universal joint", not "one socket for all nuts".

Yes... a wobbler, wobbly...

this: , not this:


Umm, just to be clear, there are two tensionsers that we all have been talking about about. In one thread (maybe this one?) I think you asked if you could get the A/C drive belt off by just loosening _that_ tensioner, and I (maybe others too) said "yeup". But, there is also the tensioner on the timing belt.

The eBay link that kmchby76 posted is for the tensioner that's behind the front engine cover. It's for the timing belt - THAT's the tricky one. It can be done without "the magic tool" but you'll want to be prepared for how to tackle it.

 

i use a about a 18" breaker bar (1/2" drive) with a floor jack pipe. i also used the other half of the floor jack pipe to extend the race for the chain wrench.

 

kmchby76:

Thanks for the info. I will have to buy the breaker bar (there again, any excuse to buy a new tool )

midiwall:

Yes, you are correct. Sorry I was not more clear, but I am and was talking about the timing belt tensioner. I took a look from under my truck for the tensioner, and I am beginning to wonder if it is worth the extra $$ to just buy the SST. I am not even sure if I can get ahold of a Snap-On guy or order the part in time because this Saturday is the only chance I will have to do it for a long time, but I think I will sleep on the decision.

Thanks for all the helpful info, this website rocks.

 

SC; you won't be able to do this with JUST a standard socket handle. Keep in mind that the bolt there was torqued to over 200ftlbs, you're going to need some leverage to crack it loose, and some more leverage to hold the crank in place while you do so. a 10" socket wrench won't let you get into it...

It's cool that you're gonna make a piece to hold the crank, but look ahead and remember that you need to apply that much force when tightening it. So, design it to be reversable and catch a frame rail the "other" direction as well.

 

I have already thought of that. I will have someone with me doing the work, so I am making a tool similar to this one:

http://www.toy4x4.net/timing_belt/sst_2.jpg

I will have my help hold the tool in place (or place it against the frame) while I break the bolt loose and re-torque it.

I think I asked this earlier, but my manual says 184 ft/lbs on the pulley bolt, but you stated over 200 ft/lbs. Which is correct?

 

Well...

The best words up there are from snap-on. When you're talking at least 184ftlbs, 15 more ain't gonna hurt.

When the work was done on my truck, the truck was 6' in the air, the crank was locked against a frame rail, and the guy helping me (a STRONG guy) was CRANKING at the end of a 3' pipe. No torque wrench involved at all. If there would have been, I'm sure he was well over 200+.

So... Crank on it until it won't move, then crank on it some more.

If you really want to follow a printed number, then look to an FSM. It's the ONLY valid reference. I refuse to trust Chiltons or Haynes... ugh.

Here's the FSM:
http://aarc.epnet.com/application/9316/9316.htm

Click on:

• Engine & Engine overhaul
• Engine Mechanical
• Timing belt
• Removal & installation
• 5VZ-FE Engine
• Scroll down a ways to find "Install the pulley bolt and tighten to 215 ft lbs"

 

Thanks for that midiwall....sorry if I am asking "dumb" questions, but I am somewhat of a perfectionist and I prefer to do the job completely correct the first time. Again thanks for all the helpful info.

 

Dood... The only "dumb" question is the one that's not asked. If it sounds like I'm harping on you, I'm sorry... I may be, a bit , but while I'm (_WE'RE_) trying to teach you what's up, we're also trying to "learn ya' some common sense". Ya' know?

I was VERY MUCH in your EXACT shoes just 8 months ago dealing with my timing belt - but now, I could do it myself. It's a process of learning from your peers, and those that have done it many times before. I'm not an expert, but I see you asking the same questions that I had, and I'm trying to instill my new-found knowledge.

Past that, I know that you're trying to be perfect with this stuff, but a lot of it is "hmmm, that feels right" and it's just something that you have to learn.

In your case, you really & truly can't put too much torque on that crank bolt... but in another thread, I (and other folks) instilled upon a guy that he CAN overtorque a spark plug. You just gotta feel it... and you'll understand.

It'll take time and with time comes experience. It's all good.

THIS forum is here to help.

 

Good to know.

I did not feel like you are harping on me, and even if you were it wouldn't bother me. Sometimes it takes that to make someone see what needs to be done. If I have anymore questions I will post them, and thanks again for all the help.

SOCO

 

That is definately the best way to do it if your time is worth anything to you!

You are right as well, we all jumped on a universal socket as being one of those GatorGrip universal spring pin type of sockets but a the universal joint you meant has a few names including flex (joint), universal (joint) or swivel (joint)......I think the use of the word "socket" threw us all I wouldn't use one of those on the crank bolt either, but for everything else it should be fine. I also use craftsman sockets so it should be any issue to use one to loosen the crank bolt (just never use a chome socket on an impact gun, I've seen it done and they literally explode sending shrapnel everywhere!)

Glad we could all be of help and obviously if you have any questions, ask away!